Can you just change the Helix...

Suprx125

Suprx125

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Can you just change your helix to, lets say, a Pioneer or Bender without having to get into all the tuning? My Viper engine is stock, as are the clutches. I eventually am going to have Hartman do a clutch kit for me, but thats for another year since they are not cheap. He suggested in the meantime that I can wrap my secondary spring at 60. Both clutch springs are black. Track is a 144 w/ 1.5 paddle. I don't want to buy clutch kit now(cause I'm saving!lol), but helixs are somewhat cheap. Would there be any benefit to just changing the helix? I've done searches, but have found none that answer this question. Thanks guys.
 

Suprx125 said:
Can you just change your helix to, lets say, a Pioneer or Bender without having to get into all the tuning? My Viper engine is stock, as are the clutches. I eventually am going to have Hartman do a clutch kit for me, but thats for another year since they are not cheap. He suggested in the meantime that I can wrap my secondary spring at 60. Both clutch springs are black. Track is a 144 w/ 1.5 paddle. I don't want to buy clutch kit now(cause I'm saving!lol), but helixs are somewhat cheap. Would there be any benefit to just changing the helix? I've done searches, but have found none that answer this question. Thanks guys.
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Okay.... Just changing out your helix will make your sled shift out quicker or more aggressively and may cause you a bog or a flatspot because you are to aggressive for a stock set up... Go to the tech pages and look up some clutching combinations, you can clutch your sled with GENUINE YAMAHA parts for a fraction of the cost that you would pay for someones "clutch kit"(nothing against anyone) that you may not like the results of how the clutch feels or reacts on your application. Plus you are going to change a couple of rivets and the primaryspring(maybe) and possibly the secondary and as you asked the helix. for a more potent clutch feel. Guys here will also tell you to buy a book from/by a gentleman call Olav Aaen called The Clutch tuning handbook, as it explains how the clutch works and why... Good Luck!
 
If you're going to spend the money on a new helix, spend the extra 20 bucks and pick up a new secondary spring. Your going to need a stiffer spring to grip the belt since it'll be dropping down into the secondary alot faster. I'm sure there are other combinations but one of Turk's favorites for the Viper is the 53/43 helix with green secondary spring. As you've probably read or found out, some if not most Viper's have an over-rev past 8500 or so rpm's. Pick up some 4.5 gram rivits to the weight tips and bring the rpm's into the sweet spot. You can play with your wrap on the secondary depending on what kind of riding you're gonna be doing. 60 will give you more top end speed and the tighter you wrap it will give you quickness through the trails.
Hope this helps.
 
Thanks guys, that answers my question. I know that there isn't really a one size fits all setup so I figured I'd try to keep it simple. Will my long track work with Turks set up?
 
If you have geared down and plan to have it tuned next year, I would just leave it alone as long as it is close to your peak rpm.

Changing the helix is doing exactly what it sounded like you didn't want to do, tune the clutching. FJViper was putting you on the right track if that is what you want to do, but again you can see from his description, change one component and you will end up changing them all....lol.

Is changing rivets and replacing springs something you are willing to do?
 
Yea If I have to I will. If I like it enough, i'll just keep it instead of getting a Hartman setup. I talked to Pioneer Perf. today about re-valving my shocks and kinda picked their brain a bit about my setup. They recommended I run it first to see what rpm's I will hit and to get a baseline. They don't think it will go over 8500 rpm's easily since its pulling a 144" w/ 1.5 paddle. I guess I'll ride it and go from there. Now we play the waiting game....... :letitsnow
 
with a big track like that I wouldnt use a 53/43 it will most likely under rev because of the load applied and the clutch is going to want to upshift much quicker. Something more in the line of a 50/45 would be better suited in my opinion.
 
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