What is the procedure for bleeding out the coolant....

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01 SRX

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on a 2001 SRX 700? I can find all kinds of stuff for the SXViper but nothing for the SRX. Any help is appreciated.

01 SRX
 

I dont know the "procedure" or if there is one per say. The threads on the vipers are there because more than a few guys have had problems with trapped air blocking proper flow of coolant threw exchangers. I have a couple srx's and the girlfreinds Sxr apart and I just filled the coolant and fired it up...let sled run for a few and top off as needed. Maybe I have just ben lucky.
 
Thank you sir! I have been racking my brain trying to figure out why I can't find anything on it. I'm sure as everything does that Yamaha has a procedure for this, but if you have done it this way and no problems that makes me feel better. I know only the heads have been off to replace the o-rings, so the rest of the system was never drained. I was thinking that all I needed to do was top it off and run it and recheck, but wanted to hear that from someone who has done this already. Thanks again.
 
Should be able to see a "current" so to speak in the tank once sled has warmed up and thermastat has opened. Should be able to grab the exchangers and feel them warming up as well.
 
staggs65 said:
well you should be taking off the seat and with the rear of the sled raised slightly bleeding the rear exchanger via the bleed screw
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Does this need to be done if it wasn't totally drained? Only the heads were off. I want to do this right. What would you do? And what is the easiest way to do it correctly?
 
on the SRX it is easier.No need to open bleed screw at the back of tunnel.All I have done is take the rad cap off the coolant bottle and run the engine.You will see coolant moving..as it is doing this it will release air bubbles..then put cap back on after a 5 minute run...run a little longer until all exchangers are hot...done...

different on redheads since there is no coolant bottle where water runs tru..then you do the bleed screw trick..
 
if you only drained the coolant to just below the heads (although I dread to think of how you'd do that) then "maybe" you wouldnt get air in the rear exchanger but it only takes 5 minutes. different strokes for different folks but I'd take the few minutes to bleed it if it were mine.
 
staggs65 said:
if you only drained the coolant to just below the heads (although I dread to think of how you'd do that) then "maybe" you wouldnt get air in the rear exchanger but it only takes 5 minutes. different strokes for different folks but I'd take the few minutes to bleed it if it were mine.
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O-rings in the heads leaked after it sat for 5 years before I got it. Replaced the o-rings, sucked out all the coolant from the case, and soaked the bottom end bearings in fogging oil. No rust on the crank since it was submerged. Got everything cleaned well and working properly. It runs great with no nasty sounds. I was worried that I was going to have to tear it all apart, but so far so good. I still want to do the procedure correct though, so I will pull the seat back off and do it right. Thanks guys! I love the help you get on this site. Hope to be someone who can repay all the help I am getting soon.

Mike
AKA: 01 SRX
 
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