I know this topic has been beaten around and around but searching didn't really answer my question and that is if I install a ripsaw and use studs will the factory protectors be enough to avoid damage to the front heat exchanger and tunnel? I have read that to be absolutely safe you should use 8 tooth drivers but I really don't want to mess with the drivers if I dont have to.
Given the region I live in using studs is pretty much a given because we are never sure if the trail will be icey from rain or hardpacked from traffic.Deep powder snow is not generally a concern here.
I am posting this thread about the ripsaw because I can get a better price on it that the 1" predator that I initially wanted.
Given the region I live in using studs is pretty much a given because we are never sure if the trail will be icey from rain or hardpacked from traffic.Deep powder snow is not generally a concern here.
I am posting this thread about the ripsaw because I can get a better price on it that the 1" predator that I initially wanted.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
lug height on ripsaw you want to use 
Stud height Will they hit
Stud height Will they hit 
I had no problems with 1.175 woodys in my 1 1/4 ripsaw installed in my Viper...I dont believe there any differences in clearence between the two tunnels( hopefully someone can verify that)
The studs gave me 1/4" penetration when they were new, which was great for safety.
I will say that i didnt have as much sucsess with the same studs in my predetor. Had a hard time with the protectors and notching the track
The studs gave me 1/4" penetration when they were new, which was great for safety.
I will say that i didnt have as much sucsess with the same studs in my predetor. Had a hard time with the protectors and notching the track
1.175 studs work great on a 1 1/4 track with stock guards. as long as the track is clipped for clearance so the track wont drag. If you fell for the "you have to use 1.375 studs in a 1.25 lug track" thing, its not going to end well without 8tooth drivers.
I remember you saying once before about clipping these tracks so they don't drag on the gaurds and I figure on doing that if I do indeed get one.The other option was the 1 1/4 predator,the guy that give me the price on the tracks said he could get that one too if I wanted it cheaper than the 1" version and from what I've read about some guys having the lugs rip off their ripsaws I'm thinking the predator might be a tougher track.BETHEVIPER said:
I am doing this project right now, studding a 1.25" ripsaw for a Viper skid in a 99SRX with 1.175 Woodys Golddiggers.
I followed BTVs advice on stud size, looks good, left drivers alone, also using Polaris metal tunnel guards...
Have to finish studding and clip the track I will let you know how goes..
BTV what method you suggest for clipping the lugs?
I followed BTVs advice on stud size, looks good, left drivers alone, also using Polaris metal tunnel guards...
Have to finish studding and clip the track I will let you know how goes..
BTV what method you suggest for clipping the lugs?
spwild47 said:
Flat nosed nail removal pliers or ceramic tile nippers. I used the nippers.
SeX Viper
Member
I installed a 1-1/4" ripsaw on my sled about 2000 miles agao and made the mistake of going with the longer studs. It sure hooks up well but has done a bit of damage in the process. They got into my rear cooler but didn't go through so I searched hi and low and found protectors for it. They also got into my front cooler but the fins are pretty long and now that they are wore down about half way it doesn't seem to be any worse. The biggest problem I just disocvered while doing drive shaft bearings this year is that my Yamaha installed plastic tunnel protectors were wore about half way down after 7000 miles. This led to a nice hole in my tunnel and luckily I caught it because likely my gas tank was next. I got a nice piece of aluminum cut to fit inside the tunnel and a little silicon and a lot of rivets later that is fixed. I saw on here someones suggestion on going to the hardware store and buying some 1" square aluminum tubing for new tunnel protectors. I think I paid $20 bucks for a 10' stick and have a some left over. This is a nice alternative the the exspensive ones sold in Dennis Kirk for I believe $30 each. I think one of the reasons that my track hits the top of the tunnel so much is because I was running it very loose to help with slide wear, if you reach up and push on the track there is a lot of slop for it to slap against the top of the tunnel up by the fuel tank.
Attachments
this is why I prefer polaris style gurads, they dont wear down and they help keep the tank from bowing down the tunnel.
even the 1.175 studs will touch now and then.
even the 1.175 studs will touch now and then.
bluebullet
New member
I ran a 1.25 ripsaw in my 99 SRX without pics and it was still a great improvement over the stock track with pics. Breaking was the only noticeable difference. I would not pic it unless you go to 8 inch drivers up front. The pics will surly hit your front cooler. Even without pics,I had to remove the front cooler guards to run the 1.25 lug height otherwise the lugs would of rubbed. Big difference between Viper and SRX in clearance, viper tunnel can handle the 1.25 without major issues. My 2 cents, good luck
SeX Viper said:
Hooly macarony, talking about a ball scratcher!
there is no difference in the tunnels or clearance between any pro action sled, They are both designed around a 3/4in track.
You do not have to remove guards to install any track as long as you clearance the track for the guards, which are designed around a 3/4in track. anything above that, needs to be clipped a little bit wider than the guard.
Also, make sure your guards are centered on each other. If your uppers are the U style, remove them and run them through the table saw so you only have an L. That way your notch can be narrower, conserving as much of the lug as possible.
If you want the most, the way to go is to make 3/8 guards for your heat exchangers and tunnel, then no clipping is needed on a 1 1/4 track. Though this style will keep your track with a tiny bit more lug, I still do not think it is the best way to go.
The best setup I have found for trail in a pro action is polaris guards run up the front to hold the tank from sagging, 1in 6pitch predator with 168 outside pattern or 192.
Ripsaw tracks work great in any of these sled.
If your not running studs, your the guy just waiting to run into the guy that does.
You do not have to remove guards to install any track as long as you clearance the track for the guards, which are designed around a 3/4in track. anything above that, needs to be clipped a little bit wider than the guard.
Also, make sure your guards are centered on each other. If your uppers are the U style, remove them and run them through the table saw so you only have an L. That way your notch can be narrower, conserving as much of the lug as possible.
If you want the most, the way to go is to make 3/8 guards for your heat exchangers and tunnel, then no clipping is needed on a 1 1/4 track. Though this style will keep your track with a tiny bit more lug, I still do not think it is the best way to go.
The best setup I have found for trail in a pro action is polaris guards run up the front to hold the tank from sagging, 1in 6pitch predator with 168 outside pattern or 192.
Ripsaw tracks work great in any of these sled.
If your not running studs, your the guy just waiting to run into the guy that does.