Some questions about servo cable & tie rods

Cooper0809

Cooper0809

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Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
1,206
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40
Location
Fergus, Ontario
Hey guys looking for a bit of help! I took the servo cover off to have a look and found that the bottom cable (right valve) has slack in it. What would cause this?http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03746.jpg?t=1355711896

Now for the tie rods. Im not sure why the tie rods have different thread lengths. Im guessing they should be the same on both sides. Red arrows for right side and blue for left side. My steering is already off because of the welded steering column, not sure what needs to be done here. http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03748.jpg?t=1355711899
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03750.jpg?t=1355711900
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03751.jpg?t=1355711907
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03752.jpg?t=1355711902

Also, is this white plug where the servo/valve adjustment coupler plugs into?
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03753.jpg?t=1355711904

And finally heres just a little cheesy seat repair for now. :offtopic: :rofl:
http://i1129.photobucket.com/albums/m504/thiessen1/DSC03754.jpg?t=1355711906

Any help is much appreciated guys!
Jeff
 

BOY...your just FULL of questions! I LIKE your attention to deatil though!

Slack in cable I would suspect to be 1 of 3 things.A valve on said cable is "pulled threw" Meaning cable has worn threw stem on valve, Yamahead (member here) does awesome working fixing this problem. B. Spring that closes said vale has collapsed or is broken and valve is in in open position, when it closes would pull slack out. C. cable is severly out of adjustment. Have you have valves out?

As far as tie rods go being "even" on both ends isnt that big of a deal. I know due to a poor weld job your handle bars are crooked horizontially. When the skies are straight are your bars slighlty turned or straight? Did you notice the tie rod running front to rear? In the pic of inner left side tie rod. By the the threads showing on right side versus the threads on left side I would say the knuckle in the center that all rods hook to was slighlty turned to the left when they set up ski alignment. If your bars are pointed forward when skies are straight I would say ride it that way. If/When you change the steering post then you can go about straightening all of this out. With bars pointed forward adjust the tie rod/drag link runnin front/back so that knuckle is centered. Once knuckleis centered you can adjust tie rods to where your skis need to be. If your rigged up steering post is tweeked rotationally (is that a word) your fighting a never ending battle trying to do all of this now. Betheviper has a link in his signature with step by step how to set up your skis, basically a front end alingment for your sled
 
Hahaha, ya I've always asked lots of questions. I haven't had valves out yet, to be honest im afraid to dig into them. More so afraid of what im going to find. Hopefully its just out of adjustment. Is it really bad to ride it with slack in that cable? The bars are slightly turned with the skis straight due to the welded steering post. I do plan on changing the steering column, so I guess I should probably just wait to do a proper alignment then.
Thanks a lot for the reply Devilin
 
could the valve just be stuck due to carbon build up? Im wondering now if I fire it up and rev it a few times even with the servo cover off to watch for cable movement.... :dunno:
 
Cooper0809 said:
Hahaha, ya I've always asked lots of questions. I haven't had valves out yet, to be honest im afraid to dig into them. More so afraid of what im going to find. Hopefully its just out of adjustment. Is it really bad to ride it with slack in that cable? The bars are slightly turned with the skis straight due to the welded steering post. I do plan on changing the steering column, so I guess I should probably just wait to do a proper alignment then.
Thanks a lot for the reply Devilin
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Guessing by the tie rods bars turned slightly to the right? Riding with slack in the cable wont hurt anything....BUT some scenarios of whats causing it COULD be bad to ride with. BE BRAVE....atleast pull that valve and see whats going on...might be nothing major.
 
Cooper0809 said:
could the valve just be stuck due to carbon build up? Im wondering now if I fire it up and rev it a few times even with the servo cover off to watch for cable movement.... :dunno:[/QUOTE

Entirely possible....if it is you need to clean it anyways! I know NOT what you wanted to hear
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slack cable could be pull thru or snapped cable.If you grab that slack cable and pull it out..if it is a pull thru..cable will stop at end of line and not be able to be pulled anymore.If you pull it and the cable just keeps coming out..then cable is broken and you would need a new complete line in..
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
Guessing by the tie rods bars turned slightly to the right? Riding with slack in the cable wont hurt anything....BUT some scenarios of whats causing it COULD be bad to ride with. BE BRAVE....atleast pull that valve and see whats going on...might be nothing major.
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Ya the bars are turned slightly to the right. I think i'll pull that valve tomorrow and see whats going on inside.
 
bluemonster1 said:
slack cable could be pull thru or snapped cable.If you grab that slack cable and pull it out..if it is a pull thru..cable will stop at end of line and not be able to be pulled anymore.If you pull it and the cable just keeps coming out..then cable is broken and you would need a new complete line in..
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I was afraid to hear this, its definitely a pull through then. I can pull on the cable and move it back and forth about 1/8" and you can hear and feel it stop at the end of the line. Well, I guess i'll have to get some to fix the valve. I forget who you guys recommend to do this. I think hes fairly far away from me though. Would it still be cheaper to send it out for repair?
 
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Check with Yamahead...does great work. Last I knew he was charging $21 per valve with $1 per donated to the site( I threw in a few extra bucks as I sent mine dirty!). Not sure what turn around time or shipping to your neck of the woods.
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
Check with Yamahead...does great work. Last I knew he was charging $21 per valve with $1 per donated to the site( I threw in a few extra bucks as I sent mine dirty!). Not sure what turn around time or shipping to your neck of the woods.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for the help guys, really appreciate it. i'll check with yamahead.
 
Finally found my testees and removed the valves thismorning. 2 pull throughs and the middle one was almost there. Stuck in the middle of the slot. Anyways, gona send em down to Rich and get em fixed up. So what is the purpose of these "power valves" anyways? How do they work? Im trying to get a better understanding as this is all new to me. Thanks guys!
 
Cooper0809 said:
Finally found my testees and removed the valves thismorning. 2 pull throughs and the middle one was almost there. Stuck in the middle of the slot. Anyways, gona send em down to Rich and get em fixed up. So what is the purpose of these "power valves" anyways? How do they work? Im trying to get a better understanding as this is all new to me. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...


They affectively change port timing/exhaust back pressure to allow for peak performance at low RPMs (valves "closed") and high RPMs (valves open).

Kinda like going from a single pipe for good low end grunt then switching to triple pipes for high RPM/high flow power. The best of both worlds.

They also cycle on decel which is supposed make them "self cleaning"... in theory anyway.
 
snomofo said:
They affectively change port timing/exhaust back pressure to allow for peak performance at low RPMs (valves "closed") and high RPMs (valves open).

Kinda like going from a single pipe for good low end grunt then switching to triple pipes for high RPM/high flow power. The best of both worlds.

They also cycle on decel which is supposed make them "self cleaning"... in theory anyway.
Click to expand...

So how bad is it to run the machine without them operating properly?
 
Cooper0809 said:
So how bad is it to run the machine without them operating properly?
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It depends on how they aren't operating. If stuck closed (cables disconnected) you won't reach peak power at WOT. If stuck open, you won't have the same throttle response down low. Some will mechanically hold them open for drag racing.

Either way the sled is still rideable but if the cables are disconnected and run long enough you may end up with the valve making contact with the piston... or so I've read.
 
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