First Ride and Race of the Season

Pauljones

New member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
90
Age
50
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Took the old 98 srx700 for the first major ride of the year. Lined up against a 2005 F7 and a 2002 MXZ 700. Beat them both when racing to about 100 mph. My 98 srx just turned 10 500 miles (17 000 km). The top end has never been touched. Sled has 23-39 gears, 8bu-10 (5.0 tip, 2.44 inner), B-W-B spring with 2 engagement shims, 50-40 helix, Green at 60. My rpm's are a little low at just under 8000 but it feels like it pulls like crazy. I am beating the same f7 and skidoo by a wider margin then I ever have before.

Thinking I will leave the clutches were they are and just have fun. Wondering if new rings and pistons would result in more power to raise my rpm's closer to 8300. If not a guess I just need a trail port done by MrViper to bring my rpm's spot on and really fly.
 

If you like to run alot of long races where top end is important do not change your weights! That set up is great. I would increase the total force of the primary spring slightly to bring rpm's up. Maybe a BBB or WWW. get it to start reving around 8250/8300 and creep up to 8400/8500.
 
Thanks for the tips. I do not run a studded track (1" predator track), because of this I would like to bring my engagement rpm's down a little bit to decrease the amount of track spin before the weight transfer hooks the track up. So I was thinking of going to a White-Green-White primary spring that has a preload of 40 kg as opposed to 45 kg. But has a total force of 114 kg vs the 111 kg of the B-W-B. The Blue-Brown-Blue mentioned above has a total force of 116 kg but a preload of 50 kg. I am worried that such a high spring preload will increase my engagment rpm and cause significant more track spin. Any thoughts?

I actually think I am a little faster with a red secondary spring at 60, although it results in very poor backshift capability. I keep the green at 60 to improve the backshift. I have no doubt that the green at 80 would increase my rpm's but the improvement would be in backshift and not speed (the nature of clutching tradeoffs).

Can you have good success with a non-studded srx700 by going to a primary spring with a preload less then 45 kg, or do you need to stick with 45 and up?
 
any updates to this his last post

thats what i'm looking for less track spin on holeshot these races around here 500ft now need hook up?

I'm running 1.75 sno cross track and still spin to china
 
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had some hillclimbs this weekend, my viper SMOKED two F7's and my buddies 97 vmax ended up taking 2nd place in the stock 700 class we were in. I was thoroughly impressed with his sled!
 
Thanks for the tips. I do not run a studded track (1" predator track), because of this I would like to bring my engagement rpm's down a little bit to decrease the amount of track spin before the weight transfer hooks the track up. So I was thinking of going to a White-Green-White primary spring that has a preload of 40 kg as opposed to 45 kg. But has a total force of 114 kg vs the 111 kg of the B-W-B. The Blue-Brown-Blue mentioned above has a total force of 116 kg but a preload of 50 kg. I am worried that such a high spring preload will increase my engagment rpm and cause significant more track spin. Any thoughts?

I actually think I am a little faster with a red secondary spring at 60, although it results in very poor backshift capability. I keep the green at 60 to improve the backshift. I have no doubt that the green at 80 would increase my rpm's but the improvement would be in backshift and not speed (the nature of clutching tradeoffs).

Can you have good success with a non-studded srx700 by going to a primary spring with a preload less then 45 kg, or do you need to stick with 45 and up?

can this be done like what is posted in bold I need to hook up aswell
 
It can always help. Only problem is you have to launch hard to win a race. I would lean towards setting up the suspension and studding the track to make the 60 ft times come down. Most races are won or lost right there!!
 


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