Hard to start cold - '88 Exciter 570

smkin_exciter_420 said:
First loose the oil injection and mix your gas.
I run 20:1
rich as hell kinda boggs when u start it and when u rev it it fires clean and will run just fine.
Click to expand...
20:1 is equivalent to 5 % Oil/Fuel mix and that is way way way to much !!

20:1 = 5,0 %
30:1 = 3,3 %
33:1 = 3,0 %
40:1 = 2,5 % ( This is the mix you should have ! )
50:1 = 2,0 %



.
 
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rkhanso said:
The engine kept running for a couple minutes with what I call the fuel shut-off.
Finally the engine died.
I tried to start it again but it would not.
I put the fuel shut-off back ON and it started up again.

So, I'm going to use the fuel shut-off when not riding in hopes this won't happen again.
Now I need to figure out how to adjust the carbs.

Is there something else I need to pay attention to related to this fuel flooded engine problem ?
Click to expand...
Get a NEW set of Fuel Pump diaphragm kit,
and new VITON needle valves in both carbs.
This will make your sled run like a champ. ;)!


1. Clean up among all the funky fuel and oil lines that Yamaha put on these sleds.
Delete the whole Oil Injection system including the oil pump.
Run 1:40 premix instead.

2. Completly disconnect the warming system to the carburettors.

3. Disconnect the T.O.R.S.-system from the carburettors.
remove the powerjet function and parts from the carburretors.

4. Jetting: Factory updated jetting for the Yamaha Exciter-I ( 87 / 88 / 89 / 90 )
Pilot jet : 40
Main jet : 320
Air screw : 1.0 turn out ( +-½ Turn )
Slide : 3.0
Needle jet : 480 P-6
Needle : 6FL68 ( Yamaha part # 239-14116-68-00 )
( And of course all the things regarding the "Power Jet" system is deleted ! )

5. Set the engine idle speed to 1600 Rpm

6. Seconary clutch:
Secondary spring : WHITE
Secondary setting : A-2
Helix angle : 45 Degr.
Helix pre tension : 50 degr.
 
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I'll never forget bringing my brand new 1988 Exciter home and turning the fuel shut off to the on position and pulling, pulling, pulling.....called the dealer and he said bring it back. I pulled into the dealer, walked in the door, I did not see a service guy who walked out the side door climbed up on the trailer turned the fuel shut off to the off position and started her up.........
 
I took it for a spin today. It still seems as if there's a fuel problem.
It will idle better and no bogging down when taking off....at least not as bad as before.

But, I can't get above 5000-7000 RPM. It sometimes will go just 5000, sometimes higher, sometimes not. It will now bog down at low to mid mid throttle. If I shut off the fuel when it's bogging at low-mid throttle, it will clear up after a while, take off up to only 7000 rpm and then a little while later start bogging again. This will repeat all day, it seems.

I'm not sure what to do to fix this, other than just take it in to a 'real' mechanic.
 
Lasse....Are all those things you suggested just general suggestions? Or possible solutions to my problem?

The snowmobile ran great last year (other than the bogging after sitting and idling for over 30 seconds or so) so I guess I have to question the long list. I could run it all day as long as I didn't let it idle.

I did get the rubber tipped needle/seat this year and installed them. I cleaned up the carbs again and put them in. It starts OK now, and I think the bogging issue due to idling may be fixed, but now it bogs down when riding it.

I put a fuel pump kit in it last year also.
 
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