Hey, just got this sled on Sat from a used dealership and they "claim" that they've cleaned the carbs blabla.
Anyways yesterday was 0 degrees and i wanted to try it out since there was decent amount of snow, Cranked about 20 times with full choke and half choke on and nothing.. Had to get it going with some damn quickstart fluid and even then it took a few more cranks to get her going.
What adjustments should be done to my carbs to rectify this problem? What are the factory settings for all screws?
My old 92 Formula Plus 580 started after 3 primes and 1 crank LOL.
Thanks so much guys
Anyways yesterday was 0 degrees and i wanted to try it out since there was decent amount of snow, Cranked about 20 times with full choke and half choke on and nothing.. Had to get it going with some damn quickstart fluid and even then it took a few more cranks to get her going.
What adjustments should be done to my carbs to rectify this problem? What are the factory settings for all screws?
My old 92 Formula Plus 580 started after 3 primes and 1 crank LOL.
Thanks so much guys
first thing i would do is look at the choke adjustment and make sure its pulling the plungers open, I am sure your aware its a 2 step choke lever and you have to flip it up and forward slightly to get full choke. see if the little arm on the carb rack is pulled all the way up, theres a threaded adjuster there to move it.
Will take a look at that forsure.
How many adjustments screws do i need to touch? Pilot and idle screw, are these the only ones?
How many adjustments screws do i need to touch? Pilot and idle screw, are these the only ones?
i know it should be obvious bust is it full with fresh 91 gas? low gas can sometimes make them hard to start.
yeah half tank of shell v-power 91 using br9es.. I just tried tonight using Br9eya and half choke and started 2nd crank at half choke at 0degrees again.. hmm
mrviper700 said:
took a look and it seems to move properly and adjustment seems to spec.
so you cant move the arm on the carb rack up anymore when its wide open? Then... it should start with relative ease, the choke circuit on these sleds are very rich, and if adjusted good will start them right up.
If its getting really cold out at night, its best to kill the engine with the choke at the end of your previous days ride, this will place excess fuel in the reed blocks and case and help to start it up the next morning. When the 2 stroke oil gets real cold, it slows down how fast the engine spins over and makes it harder to start. its because the crankcase isnt producing the vacum to pull in the fuel as easy due to the slower rpm of pulling it over cold, so the richer mixture helps to light it off easier the next morning, try it, it works pretty good.
If its getting really cold out at night, its best to kill the engine with the choke at the end of your previous days ride, this will place excess fuel in the reed blocks and case and help to start it up the next morning. When the 2 stroke oil gets real cold, it slows down how fast the engine spins over and makes it harder to start. its because the crankcase isnt producing the vacum to pull in the fuel as easy due to the slower rpm of pulling it over cold, so the richer mixture helps to light it off easier the next morning, try it, it works pretty good.
2003VIPERER
New member
mrviper700 said:so you cant move the arm on the carb rack up anymore when its wide open? Then... it should start with relative ease, the choke circuit on these sleds are very rich, and if adjusted good will start them right up.
If its getting really cold out at night, its best to kill the engine with the choke at the end of your previous days ride, this will place excess fuel in the reed blocks and case and help to start it up the next morning. When the 2 stroke oil gets real cold, it slows down how fast the engine spins over and makes it harder to start. its because the crankcase isnt producing the vacum to pull in the fuel as easy due to the slower rpm of pulling it over cold, so the richer mixture helps to light it off easier the next morning, try it, it works pretty good.
thats preatty good advice, will have to remember that.
devinzz1
Active member
since were on the topic of a hard starting sled...how hard is it to add a primer to one of these triples?
devinzz1 said:
would like to know as well.. my 92 bomb has that and that thing will start in any weather 2-3 primes 1 pull no prob
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
how about installing electric fuel pumps...
The Viper starts fine in -35 F if the starter circuit is working properly. Way better than a primer setup IMO. There is no way to regulate the primer with any degree of accuracy. With the starter circuit a very consistent rich supply of fuel is picked up as air passes thru the venturi. Many people call this a choke, but it is really not a choke. The best way to describe it is as a fuel enrichener circuit. A choke on the other hand simply blocks airflow on the intake which results in a richer mixture via the pilot circuit. As for a primer, it simply squirts raw fuel into the intake of the carb. Generally done when there is no airflow present. Not a very good way to atomize the fuel.
I am betting that the starter circuits are plugged some where. I have seen the o-rings installed incorrectly and blocking the fuel flow. If it were me, I would slide the linkage aside and pull each plunger. Just be careful to keep it together and be sure they are installed correctly (don't assume the dealer did it right).
I am betting that the starter circuits are plugged some where. I have seen the o-rings installed incorrectly and blocking the fuel flow. If it were me, I would slide the linkage aside and pull each plunger. Just be careful to keep it together and be sure they are installed correctly (don't assume the dealer did it right).
bluemonster1 said:
Most electric fuel pump setups include a regulator that would exceed the carb floats ability to shut the fuel off at the needle valve. You would likely have to change the fuel level control to an electronic setup, or find a way to regulate the fuel pressure to a very low pressure. You can find some of this info in Mikuni tech documents. I don't know where to find this stuff anymore on the web.
As an example . . .
There are Mikuni needle valve setups designed for gravity feed fuel supplies. There are different needle valve setups designed for fuel pumps. If I remember correctly (IIRC) the fuel pump setups are for 5 - 10 psi or at least in that ballpark.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
took me at least 15 pulls today on SRX..but I have my idle down low..so it just wouldn't fire up fast..sounded like 1 cylinder going.Then I opened throttle a little and pulled and she fired all 3.If I set up idle to run a little more at start up..then I get a fast idle later as I stop sled..like 2100..so turning screw down brings idle at about 1800 when all warmed up.I did the enrichment mod also..so doesn't seem to work.At -35 I wouldn't even try to start it.
Ding said:
I just wish it was an easy task. I'm guessing that the rack has to come off to do this ?
I don't think I have ever pulled the plungers while on the sled. I have always done them along with a complete carb cleaning with the carbs off the engine. However, you should not have to separate the rack. At least I don't remember doing it. I have a set off a Viper right now, will double check while I out in the garage. Supposed to be finishing up a 5.7 Vortec rebuild, but maybe I can remember to check those carbs while I am out there.