Ok we just got snow I get her out and run through the field a few times she is running great and then a noise appears thats seems to be getting worse so then i i give her hell and sure enough that noise turned in to a griding scary sound! I do believe I have a bearing failure? Ok so I have never done this before is there any info on how to change the jackshaft and drive shaft bearings? and where can I get them or are they just standard 1inch sealed bearings? with christmas time I can not afford to pay someone to do this and I want to ride my freakin sled BAD so I am going to tackle this myself!
staggs65
Moderator
first step is to track down the actual culprit. if it is indeed the driveshaft or jackshaft bearings I'd change both just to be sure. if it's something else I'd at least inspect, clean, and re-pack them. they are a collared bearing. one is flat around the outside the other is conical (might not be using the right term but not the same) My Napa is also a parts unlimited dealer and last time I tried he couldnt get the right bearings. I get them through the yamaha dealer.
lots of questions
Well this is a question with alot of pieces. I would get a climber manual first. There is alot of thing that need to come off. Each of those jobs is not too bad or large on there own, but together there is quite a bit. You need to drain down the chaincase, remove the lower gears. remove the secondary clutch. Remove the speedo end cap/bearing. It might be easier to take out the track and skid to get those drivers out. It is some work for all this, just take your time. What is broken should be obvious when you get to it. It's probably the drive bearings on your lower shaft. I would replace all. And replace w OEm they have tighter tolerences IMHO. Did your speedo work?
Well this is a question with alot of pieces. I would get a climber manual first. There is alot of thing that need to come off. Each of those jobs is not too bad or large on there own, but together there is quite a bit. You need to drain down the chaincase, remove the lower gears. remove the secondary clutch. Remove the speedo end cap/bearing. It might be easier to take out the track and skid to get those drivers out. It is some work for all this, just take your time. What is broken should be obvious when you get to it. It's probably the drive bearings on your lower shaft. I would replace all. And replace w OEm they have tighter tolerences IMHO. Did your speedo work?
nope my speado quit workin about 100 or so miles ago!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
well my SRX make a big grinding like sound yesterday as well.Sounded to me like chaincase noise.Drove home slowly.Turned out that one of the front exchanger protector's was loose and wiggling and the track slapping against it made such a big scary noise.Thought I blew the motor.Anyways I re fitted it and riveted it a little tighter.
yup
the speedo is usually the sign that your bearing is going. you will need a new speedo pin as well. Like staggs said I would replace all, or at least re-pack.
the speedo is usually the sign that your bearing is going. you will need a new speedo pin as well. Like staggs said I would replace all, or at least re-pack.
manual
If you are not a machanic and do not work on engines/bikes/snowmobiles alot I would get the clymer manual it has more detail, and is more user friendly, The OEM has great specs, but is like Ikea furniture instructions. Cliff notes for guys ho have done this alot.
If you are not a machanic and do not work on engines/bikes/snowmobiles alot I would get the clymer manual it has more detail, and is more user friendly, The OEM has great specs, but is like Ikea furniture instructions. Cliff notes for guys ho have done this alot.
Ya monster I wish that was my case! lol its deff a bearing failure, ok i will order the clymer and what all parts will i need for this max?
jack shaft bearing, drive shaft bearing, speedo pin , anything else u recommend while im in there?
Or could I get away with just changing the one bearing (If thats the one) the one that gets all the torque?
A thought
If one has failed, I would replace both. If you have not maintained them each year they will need to be replaced. I would also order a new oil seal that goes in the chaincase would be a good idea. pick up some chaincase oil. Lube up all moving parts, locktight all bolts, go for it!
If one has failed, I would replace both. If you have not maintained them each year they will need to be replaced. I would also order a new oil seal that goes in the chaincase would be a good idea. pick up some chaincase oil. Lube up all moving parts, locktight all bolts, go for it!
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Bad98SRX said:
For those that dont already know.....This is the "HEY...Check or change some bearings" I used ALL BALLS brand the last time I swapped them out. Theres ben a few threads of others using them as well. Not to bad of a project...I had all summer to do it though!
that bears repeating
If the speedo goes out on your machine, check the bearings immediately. 99 pecent of the time you just lost a drive bearing.
If the speedo goes out on your machine, check the bearings immediately. 99 pecent of the time you just lost a drive bearing.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Bad98SRX said:
I guess I will continue to being a post whore as I was called in the last post and answer this question as well. NO, replace both. The bearing in the chain case takes more torque compared to speedo side bearing. The reason the speedo goes first is due to the slop in chain case bearing being muliplied at the speedo end of drive shaft. Minimal up/down or front/back slop in chain case bearing breaks the speedo key way/pin, that why its a tiny little part. Chances are the speedo bearing is probably still in spec, chances are it may not be by the time you get it all torn apart. For the cost of a bearing worth the peice of mind knowing its all brand new and not leave anything to chances.
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