Oops I rolled it

jvizzacc

jvizzacc

New member
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Messages
162
Age
64
Location
Livonia, MI
I rolled my sled over the weekend. Was climbing a hill, couldn't get square to the thing. She tipped and I bailed. She gently rolled over about 20 times all the way to the bottom. :mad: The only thing hurt on my was my pride and ego.

The only apparant damage to the sled is:

- many scratches on hood and windshield :cry:
- plastic belly pan changed color in places where it impacted the ground
I suspect these are due to stress on these points

Are there things that I should check? The skis and handlebars appear to still be straight.

How can I remove those scratches? The windshield is probably out of the question, but it would be nice to remove the scratches from the cowl.

Thanks!
 

The belly pan you can take a heat gun and just go over the parts where its a different color and it will go back to the original color but dont melt it. As for the hood you can sand it down and repaint, but what hood doesnt have scratches shows you ride it more than you wax it. Not sure on the cowl might be easier to buy a good used one from someone on here.
 
i lost my sled in a conrer through some trees and scratched it BAD. I used a wheel with some low grit compuond (swirl remover) and you could never tell. works great as long as the scratchs aren't through the paint
 
I ran into an ice shelf last weekend on my SRX at full squeeze and totalled my trailing arm. I've gone over the same ice shelf with my VMAX pogo many times without problem, ...I either hit it at a bad angle or these trailing arm sleds are way delicate.
 
Couldnt help but notice you are also in Livonia hmmm there quite a few on here from here. I also agree with Srx_Eh i do think the trailing arms are pretty weak but its better to bend them instead of tunnels and bulkheads. I was thinking maybe they were made to bend like that. My srx took a good tumble dented both trailing arms right infront of the bolts. What about wet sanding? and buff the finish back?
 
I didn't see any obvious damage to the trailing arms, but I'll check them. As for swirling out the scratches I think I'll wait until summer for that.

I was just wondering if anyone knew of "hidden" places to look for damage.

Thanks all,

Jim

:rockon:
 
...and once you fold these trailing arms, repair is out of the question, bent mine back and took it out for an easy run on hard packed and it slowly bent out again, ...I'm hoping to replace it this weekend.
 
I repaired a couple of my bent ones temporarily by bolting on steel channel. Functional to keep you riding, but not very pretty. I got tired of bending the stock ones, so now I am going to bend some of the aftermarket ones. Hey Rules, you were supposed to give us an update on which arms resist bending the most. I think you have actually bent more of them than I have . . .
 
jvizzacc, dont wet sand it, and dont buff it very much. those hoods have very little paint on em. itll be no time before you start to see white. my suggestion is to lightly buff bu hand with 3m glazing putty, be careful as i said there is very little paint on those hoods..... trust me on this one... i know from experience....
 
Another Livonia, MI person...COOL. We should make our own Yamaha Livonia Snowmobile Club.
 
I broke a stearing collum on a light roll to the slide after a hard roll a year or 2 earlier.

you might want to get a collum reinforcer if they make it for that year
 
It doesn't take a very big hit to break a trailing arm. I hit a point of a rock on the front of the spindle and totalled the entire front right side, shock, radius rods, trailing arm even the ski. The only mark to show the hit was a 1/2" X 1/4" scrape. I don't know how fast I was going but I just came out of a sharp left hander and bam!(maybe 30mph)
 
yea i have bent a couple trailing arms in my days. The aftermarkets definately bend more easily than the stockers, they are a lot thinner and have less reinforcement.
 
Yeh, be carefull if you buff it, but I have done mine a couple of times. Very light 3M buffing compound and slow buffer speed. If you use a heavy cut compound by hand you will make more of a mess than it is right now. That needs to be done with a buffer to have it work effectively. I do alot of buffing, in fact I just got home from the shop and I was buffing a truck. Also put masking tape over your decals so you don't cut the color off of them, and stay away from the corners with the buffer. 3M Finess-it 2 (part number 05928)works pretty well. It only has a light abrasive in it and polishes up nice and clean. You could use this product by hand, but your arm will get tired. A buffer at 1100-1200 rpms really works best. Good luck. ;)!
 
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