chilli
New member
She has been sitting for a good 2 or 3 years now, and Ill quickly bring you up to speed:
When i picked it up, was in great shape overall, but what seemed to be the stock track was still on it. Added some C&A razors up front
Wanted to install an 1 3/4 Back-country track, as this is going to be my powder / ditchbanging/ ice fishing sled.
So I dropped down to 7 tooth drivers, and had some drop brackets fabbed up so the huge lugs would clear the under-seat coolers. Love the new stance, but now there is extreme friction right on the curve in the hyfax, and the back of the track has about 4" of sag.
Going to 7 tooth really puts a bad bend in the track and I just "dont like it" for lack of a better term
I'm considering relocating the under-seat coolers, and have them run under the footwell area like our SRX's do, or better yet run SRX style ones and eliminate the smaller exciter ones.
I assume this will allow me to go back to stock mounting locations with 8 tooth drivers, and have the room needed for the 1 3/4 track.
Couple questions:
For those of you who have done similar...and used drop brackets, did you have to use 7 or 8 tooth? Did you do any cooler relocating?
I worry that the brackets may fail or bend under extreme conditions (ditch banging). Any thoughts here?
Feel free to chime in with "what Id do"... but based on experience plz
When i picked it up, was in great shape overall, but what seemed to be the stock track was still on it. Added some C&A razors up front
Wanted to install an 1 3/4 Back-country track, as this is going to be my powder / ditchbanging/ ice fishing sled.
So I dropped down to 7 tooth drivers, and had some drop brackets fabbed up so the huge lugs would clear the under-seat coolers. Love the new stance, but now there is extreme friction right on the curve in the hyfax, and the back of the track has about 4" of sag.
Going to 7 tooth really puts a bad bend in the track and I just "dont like it" for lack of a better term
I'm considering relocating the under-seat coolers, and have them run under the footwell area like our SRX's do, or better yet run SRX style ones and eliminate the smaller exciter ones.
I assume this will allow me to go back to stock mounting locations with 8 tooth drivers, and have the room needed for the 1 3/4 track.
Couple questions:
For those of you who have done similar...and used drop brackets, did you have to use 7 or 8 tooth? Did you do any cooler relocating?
I worry that the brackets may fail or bend under extreme conditions (ditch banging). Any thoughts here?
Feel free to chime in with "what Id do"... but based on experience plz
The above problem is the end result of that your approach angle is way to step !chilli said:
You must compensate the track/approach angle by moving the skid backwards.
Drivers diameter with 2,52" pitch: 7T = 5.50"
8T = 6.25"
9T = 7.05" -------> Stock on Yamaha Exciter-II
10T = 7.85"
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REMEMBER:
When you go down the diameter of the drive wheels,
you get worse attack angle against the snow.
Which is not good from a get through the snow standpoint.
You can however somewhat adjust/compensate this by moving the skid backwards.
Always aim for a 17-20 degree attack angle against the snow !
Last edited:
Lasse is right, monte are working on a similar thing with his ex right now. He will make an article about this and u will find that in here when it´s done:
http://www.facebook.com/groups/377732505654647/?fref=ts
http://www.facebook.com/groups/377732505654647/?fref=ts
Yamaha Nutz
New member
i have some sx heat exchangers heck most of the chassis yet
chilli
New member
so what size drivers did you use for that setup?? When you push the skid backwards, how does that affect the ability to tighten / loosen the track? Did you go to smaller rear wheels?