Miss on #1 during cold starts

9

95rxl650

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Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
321
Age
61
Location
Georgian Bay, Ontario
My 98 SRX 700 doesnt fire on #1 untill it warms up abit. A minute or two.
It starts from cold on 4-5 pulls, full choke to half as soon as it fires. Half to no choke in about 10 seconds and it stays running. Idles about 1800rpm. Idle stays there as the #1 kicks in. This is all without touching the throttle.
I know things point to a pilot plugged, but I was wondering if the coils are grounded where they mount? There's some corrosion there.
I thought I noticed it sparking up as I wiggled the boot and wire, but it may have just been it's natural tendency to come to life as it warms up.
I'll replace the boots and wires today.
My problem is the small work area I have. No space to work effectively. I cant run the sled in there and would like to resolve this before I kick it outside. It's a bear to drag it back in. Reverse is on the top of my upgrade list, but it's a new to me sled and I'd like to ride it before I go throwing money at it.
Thanks
 

I would suggest before you do anything else...CLEAN THE CARBS [before you do any riding].
A new set of spark plugs and plug caps would be a good idea as well...the plug wires normally should not need replacing.

JM.02c

Bob
 
Looking like thats the best plan of attack. I swapped boots and no go.
Are these wires like the wires of past? As in do they simply unscrew from the coil the same as the boot? New br9ecs are already in.
If you could see the rats nest I'm working in you'd laugh and tell me how tenacious I am. My shop is full of cottage shyte right now and will be until spring. I already managed a couple idlers and bearings from front to rear in an area allowing me 2 feet of space on all sides. I'm to old for acrobatics and yoga isnt my thing either.
Off to get some cleaner and pull some carbs apart. :o|
This sled better run perfect when I'm done. If I'm in any shape to ride. lol
 
Some say wire cannot be changed, to toss coil and all. Others say to use dremel type tool to clean out old plug wire then use epoxy to re-install new wire. I have never tried replacing wire. The caps (boots) are very easily changed are are the root to many evils. More than a few guys have chased the tail replacing this and that to cure a hicup. As a last dirch effort they swap caps and WAA-LAA! Search "plug caps" one of the threads "a couple of bucks" posted the tech sheet what NGK type boots will/wont work. Armed with this info I was able to tell the first 4 places I stopped at to buy caps "ahh NO those WONT work" Alot of people out there will sell you whatever they have and insist it will work......I can only hope they beleive themselves and arent trying to sell me what they know wont work! OH and yeah...Clean them carbs!
 
Dremel and epoxy? I suppose so, but I think I'd just buy a coil. lol
Well, got my rattle can chems and it's time to read alittle and off to the rats nest.
Fluid Film. $15 bucks a can around here, but in my opinion, the best anti corrosive you can buy in a can. Spray it on and it stays. Rubber, plastic painit and all.
 
I was going to discard them. Someone mentioned the possibility of them varnishing.
So I disco'd everything and believe I found my 2 minute misfire.
The choke plungers have little adjustable levers that pull them out. The lever on the #1 carb is disconnected. Pretty hard to fire cold with little to no fuel I would think.
I cant tell yet, but it looks like the plunger slots are damaged and the lever pulled through it. The plunger is free and functional though.
If it is, then I'll look into a new plunger if it's available. If it's a "pita", then I guess I can live with it's quirky warm up. Until I find out more by investigating further or from one you fine folks, I may as well clean them anyway.

One more thing, there's an air bubble in the fuel line that runs across the tunnel from the pump. I assume thats a return line?
Damn customers are getting in the way of my work. lol
 
Your right, no return. I had to get back out there to remember what I was looking at. They are all clear lines though.
I dont really like the fact that they are not oem. Brings to mind of someone cutting lines to pull a motor quick.
This is supposed to be a clean low miler. :dunno:
Back to the carbs. Super clean. Not a spec of anything anywhere.

Am I safe to assume the choke on that carb not being hooked up would cause the no fire situation for a couple minutes?
If I give it some gas, it comes to life right away. I just dont like to gas a cold motor.
I had enough meet to get the lever back on the choke and pinched the lever tight. Not sure how long that will last, but it works for now.
 
I had the same problem with mine but it was number 3. I adjusted my fuel screw and now it dont do it. I believe Its because I had to rich
 
Get a lil peice of wire and wire that plunger as though it was working properly. Fire it up! If it fires with miss gone problem has ben found and verified. Obviously you cant/shouldnt ride sled with carb choked so you will have to live with it not being choked during start up, Mcuyver a fix or fix it right. With the cost of cranks,cylinders,pistons and heads I try very hard not to assume anything or jump to any conclusions. What you have explained makes perfect sense in theory, I myself would verify theory.
 
I have it rigged so it's functioning for now but there's not much left of the brass tip. It's only a matter of time before it pulls whats left off.
I have one ordered but it's a back order. $35 for the part from Yamaha.
I wont pull it apart to fix again unless it's -20 and wont start.
If it's the problem at all. I'm pretty confident that I have it licked or atleast know what it is. We'll see as soon as I have time to put it back together.
 
95rxl650 said:
I have it rigged so it's functioning for now but there's not much left of the brass tip. It's only a matter of time before it pulls whats left off.
I have one ordered but it's a back order. $35 for the part from Yamaha.
I wont pull it apart to fix again unless it's -20 and wont start.
If it's the problem at all. I'm pretty confident that I have it licked or atleast know what it is. We'll see as soon as I have time to put it back together.
Click to expand...

Theres always the "wanted" section on this site. Pobably plenty of other guys that have parts carbs laying around.
 
I can wait for the new one, but thanks.
It was the choke. It fired up on all 3 followed by a little stumble and then a quick spike in rpm and she settled down to an 1800rpm idle. Now I'm all paranoid and hearing shyte I didnt hear before. lol
I was able to clean as I put it back together in between people buggin me, but it's done. I noticed the steering shaft has been collared and welded.
Just have to tighten up the skid bolts and wait for snow.
 
Ahhhhhh crap.
Is it safe to run with the fuel screws at 1 turn out or this going to be to lean??
And, If I need to go back in, how far until I can get at the screws?
 
1 hour to the minute. Sure was easier second time around. lol
Had to pull the cables and coolant lines too.
Thanks folks. I'm set at 1.25 turns out and oh yaaaa, it's richer. Cough
 
YAMAHIZAL700 said:
What is stock setting for 98 -99srx 700's. how many turns out.
Click to expand...

Per tech pages 1 1/8 on 98 and 1 1/2 on 99. I have ben thinking about making a set of "remote adjusters" per how to or buy a set.
 
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Making them sounds like the way to go. From what I have read about the remotes, I wouldnt trust them to make make small adjustments accurately because of the binding issues. That was just Bender product.
I'm not sure if there are any that are plug and play.
 
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