I have an 05 Viper Mtn. The coolant was a little low from removal of carbs so I figured I'd add some and then bleed the system. The coolant has never been bled before. So per the service manual I started and bled the rear heat exchanger. That went smoothly. Then I refilled the tank to the cold level and left the cap off. Proceeded to remove the bleed bolt on the head of the motor where the valve is for the heated carbs. I pull the bolt out and nothing, no coolant at all. The valve for the heated carbs is hard to turn, usually have to use a pliers on it.
With that said any ideas what is going on? Do I need to leave the bolt out and pour more coolant in? There is coolant in the line leading to the valve from the carb, but nothing coming out the bleed hole. Any ideas? Thank you.
The cold level in the tank where the coolant is at, is higher than the head of the motor so I don't understand why it won't flow out.
With that said any ideas what is going on? Do I need to leave the bolt out and pour more coolant in? There is coolant in the line leading to the valve from the carb, but nothing coming out the bleed hole. Any ideas? Thank you.
The cold level in the tank where the coolant is at, is higher than the head of the motor so I don't understand why it won't flow out.
staggs65
Moderator
If I remember right in order to get coolant out of that bolt you actually have to pull the valve out a little bit. That being said I never bother I just bleed from the rear cooler.
staggs65 said:
Appreciate the quick response staggs!! I would think the rear cooler would be fine as well, but was just following the service manual. Thanks again!!
staggs65
Moderator
I've also never had the stock head on either of my Vipers so I dont know if that aids in the bleeding or not.
that does nothing. leave it.
bleed the sled from the back.
lift, run, shake.
lower, crack the cap, bleed
tighten,
lift, run shake
lower, crack the cap, bleed
tighten and ride.
never loosen bleeder when bleeder is above the motor.
also, a help is to remove the lbeeder and grind a slot in the threads. This makes it so you don't have to remove the bolt to let out the air. you can just back it out a few threads.
bleed the sled from the back.
lift, run, shake.
lower, crack the cap, bleed
tighten,
lift, run shake
lower, crack the cap, bleed
tighten and ride.
never loosen bleeder when bleeder is above the motor.
also, a help is to remove the lbeeder and grind a slot in the threads. This makes it so you don't have to remove the bolt to let out the air. you can just back it out a few threads.
staggs65
Moderator
BETHEVIPER said:
you're always thinking, good idea
BETHEVIPER said:
What he said.
I also find that it helps to simply drive the sled a bit and then bleed (rear bolt) a couple times or more. (helps with the shaking and generally gets the t-stat to open up )