02 srx700. Recently purchased. Studded and clutched. Not piped and don't believe it's jetted. I know it has 42.5 pilots. Anyways the belt slips bad under heavy load like loading on trailer or in deep snow. Already tried new belt. New to clutching but here's what I know. Stock yami belt. It had a ultimax2 before. Red primary spring. Black secondary with 50/42 helix set on 6/2. It's a Maxx roller. I don't know how to tell what weights and what the 3 different holes are in clutch for spring setting are. Also don't know rpm specs as I haven't opened it up yet. I just pulled clutches and cleaned and inspected. I am very mechanically inclined but hardly ever played with clutching. Any help would be great tx
Belt slippage could be a result of a few issues or a combination of many.
-too high of clutch engagement...should normally be under 4500rpm
-wet or oily or glazed clutch surfaces...clean and sand surfaces with 320 grit
-worn or glazed belt...replace
-misaligned clutches or excessive belt slack...allign clutches and check motor mounts
-broken or misadjusted secondary spring...check, adjust, or replace spring[check bushings as well]
-bad jackshaft or chaincase bearings...with belt and chain removed jackshaft should spin freely with no noise
-bad driveshaft bearings...track should rotate with relative ease by hand
-groove worn in primary clutch sheaves at engagement area...Yamaha belts are so sturdy they actually wear the clutch faces over time and clutch eventually wont slip the belt at engagement and grabs too abruptly[kind of like dumping the clutch on vehicle]
The above items are just what comes to mind.
You may want to swap the secondary clutch from another sled first to trouble shoot then the primary...I suspect the problem is either bearings or clutch groove related.
JM.02c
Bob
-too high of clutch engagement...should normally be under 4500rpm
-wet or oily or glazed clutch surfaces...clean and sand surfaces with 320 grit
-worn or glazed belt...replace
-misaligned clutches or excessive belt slack...allign clutches and check motor mounts
-broken or misadjusted secondary spring...check, adjust, or replace spring[check bushings as well]
-bad jackshaft or chaincase bearings...with belt and chain removed jackshaft should spin freely with no noise
-bad driveshaft bearings...track should rotate with relative ease by hand
-groove worn in primary clutch sheaves at engagement area...Yamaha belts are so sturdy they actually wear the clutch faces over time and clutch eventually wont slip the belt at engagement and grabs too abruptly[kind of like dumping the clutch on vehicle]
The above items are just what comes to mind.
You may want to swap the secondary clutch from another sled first to trouble shoot then the primary...I suspect the problem is either bearings or clutch groove related.
JM.02c
Bob
rx1jim
New member
Bob covered everything I could think of as sources of the problem. How high is the drive belt riding in the secondary pulley? It should be the top of the belt is very close to the top of the pulley. The lower the belt sits in the pulley The lower the "gear" you are starting in from a stop. Can you safely lift and hold up the back of the sled to see how the drive system reacts as you speed up the engine? You should be able to turn the track easily by hand. As Bob's list covers, look for bad bearings and binding. How tight do you have the tension set on the track? If you can run the engine and teh track on a stand, you can apply the brake and try to rev the engine. If you have broken or loose motor munts, you wil see the engine shift to the rear. If you try to move the jackshaft with the rear pulley to teh fron and the back of the sled or up and down, do you feel any play in the bearing? What is the width of the belt which you are using? A worn, narrow belt will fall deeper into the rear pulley and require the primary to close further giving you the wrong drive ratio.
Jim
Jim
Okay I will check belt height but concerned about clutch setup being the issue even though I believe it's been this way for awhile. No leaks or binding track adj good. It seems to only slip at start not driving. I cleaned both clutches with 320 grit. Ramps look good no flat spots and everything was free and not very dirty. Clutch surfaces were glazed. I'm going to put back together and check belt height and engagement rpm. How do you check belt alignment? I don't have a tool but don't notice any side wear on belt. It's a brand new yami belt. Factory from dealer. Ill fill in more as I go
rx1jim
New member
Another item to check is the installation of the spring in the secondary pulley.
I worked on a sled many years ago that had the same symptoms you described. It literally could not drive up the slightest hill, felt like it was in "5th" gear!! It turned out the spring in the secondary was not set with enough twist so under the slighest load, the secondary pulley would open up and drop the belt in to a low position. I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the secondary with teh spring in the right holes and it was like a new sled. What holes are the ends of the spring set in? I believe the tech page lists the holes for the stock secondary spring.
Jim
I worked on a sled many years ago that had the same symptoms you described. It literally could not drive up the slightest hill, felt like it was in "5th" gear!! It turned out the spring in the secondary was not set with enough twist so under the slighest load, the secondary pulley would open up and drop the belt in to a low position. I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the secondary with teh spring in the right holes and it was like a new sled. What holes are the ends of the spring set in? I believe the tech page lists the holes for the stock secondary spring.
Jim
staggs65
Moderator
the springs also wear out and dont hold as well.
rx1jim
New member
You'll need an alignment tool to check the center to center distance from the drive pulley to the secondary pulley easily and accurately. Other members on this site may have a technique to measure it without the special alignment tool. The tool I use is a flat bar which has a round notch on each end, one notch fits onto the shaft in teh middle of the primary an dthe other notch fits onto the jackshaft. When teh center to center distance is right the bar goes on and off without binding.
The offset is easier to measure. just need a long flat, straight bar. Put it against the inside back afce o fthe primary clutch and measure the distance from the bar to the back inside surface of the secondary clutch. The secondary clutch has some float in it, I usually set the secondary to the middle of it flatng position on teh jackshaft then make sure I have the specifed offset. I look around for the C-C distance and offset and post them.
You also want the faces of the primary and secondary pulleys to be running parallel. With the flat bar clamped to the back surface of the primary, make sure the distance from the bar to the secondary pulley is the same at the front and the back.
It is a bit time consuming to get the C-C distance, offset and parallelism of the pulleys all right at the same time. It takes some time but is well worth it to get the right operation of the clutch system.
Jim
The offset is easier to measure. just need a long flat, straight bar. Put it against the inside back afce o fthe primary clutch and measure the distance from the bar to the back inside surface of the secondary clutch. The secondary clutch has some float in it, I usually set the secondary to the middle of it flatng position on teh jackshaft then make sure I have the specifed offset. I look around for the C-C distance and offset and post them.
You also want the faces of the primary and secondary pulleys to be running parallel. With the flat bar clamped to the back surface of the primary, make sure the distance from the bar to the secondary pulley is the same at the front and the back.
It is a bit time consuming to get the C-C distance, offset and parallelism of the pulleys all right at the same time. It takes some time but is well worth it to get the right operation of the clutch system.
Jim
rx1jim
New member
There is a lot of information on stock specs for the sleds on the tech page. The C-C distance is 268.5 millimeters and the offset is 15 mm. The installed spring twist or wrap is 80 degrees which is the sum of the two nos. on the holes in the secondary, 2 + 6.
Staggs has a good point also, a weak spring would give this effect.
Jim
Staggs has a good point also, a weak spring would give this effect.
Jim
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I bought the "cheapy" alingmanet tool for like $20. Well worth the $ considering the variety of yamaha's it fits. I have seen these tools with the center to center measurement's scribed on them, Mine came with out. Takes litterally a minute to check alignment/offset and I do at least every year in pre season check list. 268.5 translates to 10.570 in inches if you dont have a metric ruler/tape laying around.
Okay. I put back together. Belt seems to sit pretty even in secondary. I just put spring back where it was. The holes on roller are marked. It's in 6. The holes in clutch are not. How do I determine which hole is proper? And reassembly? I just twisted with my hand to set rollers into place with some good force. Not sure how to measure degree angle for spring setting. I'm thinking we are on the right track though. Thinking spring setting my be too weak. Clutch kicks in low like 3900-4000rpm. Sled was an older gentlemens set up for trail. Also belt seems to creep ever so slightly at idle
staggs65
Moderator
rollers require stiffer springs and spring settings than the stock slide ramp clutches. there should be a paint marking on that secondary spring (if its a yamaha spring) either a red, green, or silver, etc dot. they wear off sometimes from cleaning and just age. You can usually still find a trace of the mark though.
Idk. Just drove it 30 miles. Every once in a while ill catch a whif of rubber smell. Goes to about 8500 rpm then settles around 8300. Clutches seem to not be too hot but wow is this sled darty. Can I change my springs without messing anything up like a white primary and new sec? Like to get a little more punch outta it seems to be toned down.
Also coolant light flashes sometimes? It's full and not overheating
staggs65
Moderator
the light flashing is usually a fault code. you need to take note of the pattern and look up the code. such as 3 flashes then a pause etc
Coolant light flashes 6 times. Can't find any info online. Also can I change my primary and sec springs or will it mess up the clutch setup? Was thinking of going with a stiffer setup without changing rivots or helix