letherrip21
New member
Hi all. New to the site but have been following and reading many posts for awhile.
Looking to finally mess with clutching on my bone stock 01 SRX. Sounds like good set up is stock weights with 4.5 rivets is what is rec with WWW primary. Green Sec. with anywhere from 60-90 wrap with a 51/43 helix. I am very new to the clutching game but from the research this is what I came up with. Correct or am I way off base? Another question, maybe stupid, how many rivets on there on a weight? 1, 2, or 3 and where do I install the 4.5 gram rivets? Thanks in advance for your help!
Looking to finally mess with clutching on my bone stock 01 SRX. Sounds like good set up is stock weights with 4.5 rivets is what is rec with WWW primary. Green Sec. with anywhere from 60-90 wrap with a 51/43 helix. I am very new to the clutching game but from the research this is what I came up with. Correct or am I way off base? Another question, maybe stupid, how many rivets on there on a weight? 1, 2, or 3 and where do I install the 4.5 gram rivets? Thanks in advance for your help!
staggs65
Moderator
there are only 2 rivet locations, with that setup you would put 4.5's in both holes
letherrip21
New member
Ok, that's what I thought so 2 4.5 rivets in each weight. A total of 6 rivets needed for the clutch correct? From your experience is this an ok set up? I do trail riding majority of the time and your occasional race on the lake. Thanks
staggs65
Moderator
it's a good all around set-up. It's not a setup for what i do, but from the sounds of it, it will work well for you. I ran that same set-up for a while but with a 54/46 Dalton helix. 54/44 is also a popular one.
letherrip21
New member
Thanks for the info. I also am searching previous posts. Lots of info here. Looks like this is a popular debate!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I also have run the setup loaded 8dn-20's with w-w-w primary and 51/43 heix green at 70..but will over rev. I added more rivet weight by adding washers to the rivets.I have 4.9 g inner hole and 5.6 g outer hole.with the 51/43 and am still over reving to 8600-8700.
To let you know because I got my clutching dead on yesterday with the 8dn-20's loaded as said above,w-w-w with 2 engagement shims..back to 47 helix with Red Spring at 80,I am pulling 8500 rpm wot now.If the traction is good,rpm will go to 8200ish and climb to 8500.Has a good pull to it now.I have no studs on the track..
something for you to think about..just want to play with my limiter straps yet,got 50/50 gap on rods ..feels not to shabby without running studs for traction.Have a 1" Kimpex track as well.
To let you know because I got my clutching dead on yesterday with the 8dn-20's loaded as said above,w-w-w with 2 engagement shims..back to 47 helix with Red Spring at 80,I am pulling 8500 rpm wot now.If the traction is good,rpm will go to 8200ish and climb to 8500.Has a good pull to it now.I have no studs on the track..
something for you to think about..just want to play with my limiter straps yet,got 50/50 gap on rods ..feels not to shabby without running studs for traction.Have a 1" Kimpex track as well.
Pauljones
New member
If you have a significant amount of miles on the clutches, make sure you replace the bushings in both the primary and secondary clutch. No clutch set-up will work well with worn out clutches. Helix ramps, sliders, bushings, and rollers are all maintenance items in your clutch. There is no real debate when it comes to clutching. People run different set-ups cause they have different sleds (almost all sleds are different when you consider things like track, gearing, jetting, rider weight, etc...). People also run different set-ups cause they like a different mixture of performance attributes (acceleration, back-shift, top speed, hole shot). You need to take all these variables into account and find the right set-up for YOU. One thing I have learned is that tuning for the correct rpm's is a good start, but is not the end all or be all. I have had a clutch set-up that pulled the correct rpm's but performed poorly, while another set-up that pulled the same rpm's performed fantastic, it's the nature of the beast. Have fun, it is a great learning journey.
letherrip21
New member
Thanks for the advice pjones! I will be rebuilding the clutches at the same time but you advice is spot on. Everyone's definition of a great set up is different. Thanks again and let the experiment begin!
letherrip21
New member
One other question - What would I gain or give up by going with the different helix sizes.. Exp. 51/43 or 54/46 or 54/44? Please shed a little light on this for me if you can.
staggs65
Moderator
your stock helix is a straight 47. the bigger the number the harder it loads the engine. the bigger starting angle will load the engine more on the bottom (srx's like to be loaded on the bottom) this helps you achieve the goal of coming in at 81-8200 and pulling to 8500 rpm. theres a lot of factors on how much helix you will be able to pull with a given weight setup. obviously the 51/43 is the shallowest which is why bluemonster is over-reving with the 51/43 with 4.5 rivets. But your results may not be the same.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Jeff I am overeving with 4.9 g and 5.6 g never mind the 4.5 theory..
staggs65
Moderator
yeah but thats because of the magic can of secret sauce
staggs65
Moderator
the 51/43 i dont remember being the hot ticket for the DN20s, that was more popular with the bu10s. I always used shallower though with the bu10s but I'm bigger than your average guy.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
how come then did the RX1 use the 51/43 helix then,that must of been bad for them as well...
staggs65
Moderator
I dont think the rx-1 uses 8dn20's for 1, and they spin a lot more than 8500rpm and are completely different power curves. I'm not saying it's bad a helix. I just remember the loaded dn20 setup that was so popular when I first joined here was based on a 54/44. I actually bought my first SRX with 8bu10s in it. then when I joined here I saw everyone raving about the loaded dn20 setup and traded my bu10s for a set of dn20s. I was very disappointed for the type of riding I was in to at the time.
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
letherrip21 said:One other question - What would I gain or give up by going with the different helix sizes.. Exp. 51/43 or 54/46 or 54/44? Please shed a little light on this for me if you can.
54/46 will load the sled hard and yield good topend as the 46 finish angle still loads it via the sec. and the w/w/w primary is a sofeter shift spring so you can go down to about 45 finish, no lower or it will over rev and not yield the desired result.
54/44 also works but may require a 5.0 in the tip instade of a 4.5 grams.
51/43 is getting too shallow finish for a good running srx, I would stick with 1 of the other 2 angles. it can work but youd need bolts and nuts in the weights to get them heavy enough not to over rev.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I like to use the 51/43 when it really gets warm out like around 0C.and above,it runs perfect rpm's then.Still got my fastest runs ever with that helix about 3 years back on April 7th day and it was 7 C out and it ran strong.Did 7 straight runs on the River which basically was all ice and was hitting 118 -118.5 mph on the speedo that day over and over again..loved it.Once there some snow on the River,speeds drop way off..but don't care about speed much anymore.I can do some major jumping with it now with the long travel skid and it lands nicely and no back issues anymore and hill climbing with it also.It is now my ditchbanger
letherrip21
New member
Thanks a ton for all the info guys! Gonna move forward and order a 54/46 helix along with the rest of the goodies. I'll let ya know how she pulls!