will an 01 wiring harness plug right into a 2000 SRX sled and motor I think I'm done with my 2000 harness and will get a hold of a viper cdi to run with the harness also
or are there other stuff I have to replace with the new harness
or are there other stuff I have to replace with the new harness
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
hand warmer part will be differnt as the 01-02 has a dual dial set up where your 2000 has a single but the rest will go right in.
for just racing purposes it will work
Thanks
Thanks
After I spent all day working on my SRX I found that my wiring harness had 3 bare spots and 3 burnt wires these are the 3 white wires coming from the stator that go to the voltage regulator
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
needaSRX said:After I spent all day working on my SRX I found that my wiring harness had 3 bare spots and 3 burnt wires these are the 3 white wires coming from the stator that go to the voltage regulator
and those are power robbers!
I am amazed at how many people have problems with wiring on these sleds, if you pull the harness out and repair and place in convolute tuning you never have another issue.
I had a guy a few weeks ago tell me his sled(viper) was not making any power after a port job, no 8600 rpm, no power. After what seemed like 50 emails, and phone calls, no fix. I asked did you pull the harness under the engine when you had sled all apart over summer? He says "ya and it was fine".
I told him bring it over to the shop let me see if i can fix it and see whats going on as the emailing and phone calls were not getting it fixed.
He brings it over, I take sled and ride it in field, it was a slump 7900-8000 rpm max, had the lights and tach jumping on it as well. Brought it back to shop,. removed the carbs, airbox and did the harness pull on it.....BINGO....harness rubbed thru, he says while he is standing right beside me, "oh i didnt pull it out, just looked at it in the bellypan". needless to say.......aaarrrgggghhh.. , fixed harness and then we had to add clutch weight, because it actually ran correctly and the pv servo worked like it was supposed to. He was tickled pink when he left, .......he also learned a lesson at his own wallets expense
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
GOT SCARED HERE WITH WHAT CDI YOU WILL USE UNTIL I SAW VIPER. your good. 3:16 (YAMMIE TONY)
I did the wiring fix under the engine 2 yrs ago when the stator went, now these rubs are up under the blue cowl that goes over the gas tank on the frame, the smooth condensors had bare wire out by the servo box where the ground is located, voltage reg had the wires cooked all the way to stator I also think the stator is cooked again too wont know till I get a harness for itmrviper700 said:and those are power robbers!
I am amazed at how many people have problems with wiring on these sleds, if you pull the harness out and repair and place in convolute tubing you never have another issue.
I had a guy a few weeks ago tell me his sled(viper) was not making any power after a port job, no 8600 rpm, no power. After what seemed like 50 emails, and phone calls, no fix. I asked did you pull the harness under the engine when you had sled all apart over summer? He says "ya and it was fine".
I told him bring it over to the shop let me see if i can fix it and see whats going on as the emailing and phone calls were not getting it fixed.
He brings it over, I take sled and ride it in field, it was a slump 7900-8000 rpm max, had the lights and tach jumping on it as well. Brought it back to shop,. removed the carbs, airbox and did the harness pull on it.....BINGO....harness rubbed thru, he says while he is standing right beside me, "oh i didnt pull it out, just looked at it in the bellypan". needless to say.......aaarrrgggghhh.. , fixed harness and then we had to add clutch weight, because it actually ran correctly and the pv servo worked like it was supposed to. He was tickled pink when he left, .......he also learned a lesson at his own wallets expense
Last edited:
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
needaSRX said:I did the wiring fix under the engine 2 yrs ago when the stator went, now these rubs are up under the blue cowl that goes over the gas tank on the frame, the smooth condensors had bare wire out by the servo box where the ground is located, voltage reg had the wires cooked all the way to stator I also think the stator is cooked again too wont know till I get a harness for it
i also find them rubbed at the cdi box, above your left foot sitting on it. glad you found it, now you know where to tape up the new one and pay attention to it when you install it.
that was first place I looked it had a rub there the last time too, so WHEN I do get all this back together is it neccessary to put a timing key in with the rest of this, and where would be a safe start on jetting for the viper box, 150's
This sled is now going to be just weekend warrior Ice/snow/Grass racer
This sled is now going to be just weekend warrior Ice/snow/Grass racer
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
needaSRX said:that was first place I looked it had a rub there the last time too, so WHEN I do get all this back together is it neccessary to put a timing key in with the rest of this, and where would be a safe start on jetting for the viper box, 150's
This sled is now going to be just weekend warrior Ice/snow/Grass racer
I would certainly think youll NOT need a offset key with a viper box.
Your gonna have all kinds of timing with a viper box.
mains wont be the thing i would put at the top of my tuning list, but the needle is. For drag racing your gonna need a bigger pilot, richer needles for sure and then wean it down on the main as your not gonna be on the main for very much of the track but alot more time spent in the needle. its hard to blow up a sled with a small main in the grass in only 500ft but if the needle is lean....poof!