o'l sparky
New member
Recently bought the sled, ran great,had it out for about 25 miles and came home turned it off,went out 30 minutes later to move it into garage and it wouldnt start.
Had ignition coil tested,its fine on the bench had one spark plug cap test"open".
When it wouldnt start initially and I pulled to start it, the headlight would come on, now when I pull it does not.
Tried unplugging the key switch,no spark, the kill switch is unhooked and looped into itself, bought it that way.
Leaning towards the stator, as why do my lights not come on when I pull now , when they did a few days ago?
So does any one know how do I test the stator, what it should read when tested and also what setting my multimeter should be on to test it?
Or have any other suggestions as what to do or check?
Had ignition coil tested,its fine on the bench had one spark plug cap test"open".
When it wouldnt start initially and I pulled to start it, the headlight would come on, now when I pull it does not.
Tried unplugging the key switch,no spark, the kill switch is unhooked and looped into itself, bought it that way.
Leaning towards the stator, as why do my lights not come on when I pull now , when they did a few days ago?
So does any one know how do I test the stator, what it should read when tested and also what setting my multimeter should be on to test it?
Or have any other suggestions as what to do or check?
check the stator wires where they come out of the case. they like breaking there.
thefindian
New member
I wonder if that one has a charge coil and a lighting coil in it instead of a stator if so it would be the charge coil ya had to pull it apart and sodder it in it use to cost under $100 dollars for the part back in the early 90's at the dealership we had a little black box that you would hook up to the brown wire and white with a red stripe if i remember right then you would pull it over 3 times and there was a red light on the black box that would come on if it was good or bad I cant remember now but it was simple to diagnose with the box but i remember changing a lot of charge coils.
o'l sparky
New member
I will look closer to where the wires come out of the stator.
I had an arctic cat dealer look up the stator,and his diagram of my machine showed, I think, two charge coils and one light coil in there? No Yamaha dealers close by. There is a pretty extensive parts place not too far away, I will call them and see if by chance they have that testor.
I would like to test things before I tear it apart, especially with this issue, as I think it may cost more than the sled is worth to fix it if this is indeed the issue.
I would hate to sell a sled for parts after I put under 50 miles on it since I got it.But sometimes that is the only thing that makes sense,money wise.
I had an arctic cat dealer look up the stator,and his diagram of my machine showed, I think, two charge coils and one light coil in there? No Yamaha dealers close by. There is a pretty extensive parts place not too far away, I will call them and see if by chance they have that testor.
I would like to test things before I tear it apart, especially with this issue, as I think it may cost more than the sled is worth to fix it if this is indeed the issue.
I would hate to sell a sled for parts after I put under 50 miles on it since I got it.But sometimes that is the only thing that makes sense,money wise.
o'l sparky
New member
Called the parts place and they want $75 to test it. I had to go to Duluth so I got a tuning data sheet from a dealer and there is a lighting, pulse and charge coil in there.The guy said it is most likely the charge coil, like you said , followed by the pulse coil being the next common problem.
I do not see any broken wires.So I will test them like the service guy said and hopefully figure it out and fix it. I wish they still made sleds like the Enticer, but no brand makes a sled today that I would even want for free.
I do not see any broken wires.So I will test them like the service guy said and hopefully figure it out and fix it. I wish they still made sleds like the Enticer, but no brand makes a sled today that I would even want for free.
opsled
Active member
Kill switches on Yamaha two stroke of that era are normally open to run. Unpluging a switch takes it out of the loop and if spark then come back you found the problem.
You say your kill switch wires are "looped" together? That could be part of your problem. Doing so would kill ignition power.
Now 85 and up Yammies had TORS so your kill switch should have three wires. Black (ground) black/white stripe (kill wire) and black/yellow stripe (TORS wire).
If black/white is connected to black you will have no spark.
Black/yellow needs to be connected to blac to keep the TORS system from kicking in and shutting down the sled. There are two switches in the system one at the thumb lever that is open at idle and one at the carb that is closed at idle. When you apply throttle the that switch in the thumb lever closes before the one at the carb opens keeping one of the two switches closed at all times. This keeps the TORS from kicking in and shutting down ignition. You may have an issue here too. To test unplug the wires from the carb switch to the harness then plug the harness wires into each other. That will take the TORS system off line. If all the key amd kill switch are unplugged and TORS bypassed as described you are down to a harness issue or ignition components (cdi, stator, coil).
Make sure all connections are good and that the coil is grounded. There is a wire there to do so. These ignition systems aren't prone to failure but do can. 9 times out of 10 it will be a switch or wiring issue.
opsled
You say your kill switch wires are "looped" together? That could be part of your problem. Doing so would kill ignition power.
Now 85 and up Yammies had TORS so your kill switch should have three wires. Black (ground) black/white stripe (kill wire) and black/yellow stripe (TORS wire).
If black/white is connected to black you will have no spark.
Black/yellow needs to be connected to blac to keep the TORS system from kicking in and shutting down the sled. There are two switches in the system one at the thumb lever that is open at idle and one at the carb that is closed at idle. When you apply throttle the that switch in the thumb lever closes before the one at the carb opens keeping one of the two switches closed at all times. This keeps the TORS from kicking in and shutting down ignition. You may have an issue here too. To test unplug the wires from the carb switch to the harness then plug the harness wires into each other. That will take the TORS system off line. If all the key amd kill switch are unplugged and TORS bypassed as described you are down to a harness issue or ignition components (cdi, stator, coil).
Make sure all connections are good and that the coil is grounded. There is a wire there to do so. These ignition systems aren't prone to failure but do can. 9 times out of 10 it will be a switch or wiring issue.
opsled