Carb Needles

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00SRXWHERRY

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Done many searches. I'm trying to figure out how to get to the clips to adjust my needles. I'v read the tech page and did do a search so mabe I'm just missing somthing. I've taken off the cover, loosened all the allen heads, moved the slide up as high as it wil let me, but can't make the slide go high enough to get to the clip and spacers. So if someone could help me out or point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
 

Ok just found another thread w/ pics. Looks like after I remove the 2 allen heads I have to remove the bottom peice connected to the arm. How do I get that peice off the arm then? Thank you.
 
Don't remove anything, just move the arm up an over. Find a small magnet an turn the cards upside down an the magnet will pull the needle out freely. watch out for the very small washers.
 
There are different ways to accomplish the same task. With that said, this is how I do it.

The aluminum arm has a phillips bolt going through it holding it to the shaft, I pull that screw so that the assembly moves separately from the other carbs.

Now pull those 2 allens that you mentioned. Once that is done, move the aluminum arm up as far as it will go then just simply pull the plunger off the post of the aluminum arm.

NOTE: If you have a washer on the top side of the clip it will most likely stick to the plunger so just be sure to keep track of it.

You now have access to the needle.
 
Ok,I'm trying to acomplish this with the carbs still attached. So SX600abuser If I loosen the phillips at the bar to seperate that carb from the rest so i can be able to move the slide up will that mess the sync. up once I put it back together? Thank You.
 
00SRXWHERRY said:
Ok,I'm trying to acomplish this with the carbs still attached. So SX600abuser If I loosen the phillips at the bar to seperate that carb from the rest so i can be able to move the slide up will that mess the sync. up once I put it back together? Thank You.
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NO< DO NOT try and remove that big phillips screw in the shaft, its loctited in and your only going to strip it out. You move the linkage with your other hand where the cable attaches to the aluminum cam , simply open up the throttle, and then simply slip the little bracket that had the 2 little 2.5mm allen head bolts out of the inside of the slide- off the post on the bar.

You need to have the carbs on the bench, if your trying to do this whil on the sled, your gong to get into trouble, once you drop a screw or little shim washer it is gone forever into the depths of the engine bay, its not worth it, remove the rack and do it on the bench.
 
mrviper700 said:
You need to have the carbs on the bench, if your trying to do this whil on the sled, your gong to get into trouble, once you drop a screw or little shim washer it is gone forever into the depths of the engine bay, its not worth it, remove the rack and do it on the bench.
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Only way I've ever done them is in the sled. Do them a couple times on the side of the mountain becasue you missed the jetting set up and you tend to get really fast at it :) Needless to say I do have extra shims and those little black screws in my jet box :( as they do like to jump into the engine bay on occassion. Watch out for flying e-clips too (or Jesus clips as my buddy calls them)
 
wow sounds a little rough to me in the sled! to many moving parts to loose u guys dont pull the sliderite out found it to be the safest way not to abuse the needle jmo
 
Ok, Got it all finised up. First thanks guys and this is how I ended up doing it. First I left the carbs in. I took the top off the the covers. Next I took an old T-Shirt cut a hole in it then stretched that over the carb top making the carb top the only thing showing and creating a catch all. Next I removed the 2 bottom allens. Then I took the top portion of the air box off so I can access the the slides threw the carbs. Next I depressed the throttle and put a rubberband around it to move the slides up to slide the bottom peice off the arm. By then I had access to the needle. Then I reached threw the air box to push the needle up to get it out. And finially I just reversed the process to put it bac together. All 3 took me 45 min. but this was my first time. So next time I shoud be alot quicker.
 
And on a second note the reason why I needed to do this was to fix an ongoing hanging idle problem. I'll start out saying my sled has a H/C set up, the airbox is swissed and gutted, V-Force 3 reeds, and a bender can. The Carbs have 42.5 pilot, 152 mains, and the needles were at stock 3 position. I have gone through all the routine things to fix the hanging Idle with out sucess. Tearing apart the carbs I did find that the middle carb needle was missing one of the washers. So even W/ that I still moved the needles to the 3.25 position. We will see I this changes anything. Also I ended up having to replace all the plasitc needle spacers as well. When I went to my local powersports store they did not have the same spacer for my carb needles. I ended up having to use spacers from a Cat. They had the same ID and OD specks but the thickness was slightly different. When we measured the stock Yamaha washers the were .04 and the Cat ones were .045. So let me know if this will that big of a deal.
 
So you went to the 4th spot with both washers over?? If that's the case it won't make any difference how think the washers are as they aren't doing anything anyway. If they are under the clip it would richen the needle slightly as they are further out of the jet.
 
They were moved from slot 3 W/ both washers under the clip to slot 4 W/ both washers on top. So originally it was in position 3 where now it is at position 3.25. Don't know if the .005 thickness will really make a difference
 
Shouldn't be an issue but it will not fix your idle hang. What are your fuel screws set at? What RPM is it idling at? Did you clean pilots? Set fuel screws to 2, bring the RPM down to about 1,400 and see if that cures it. If not, go with bigger Pilots.
 
Could also change the size of the pilots to 45 (2001 Specs). Sync the slides, clean the pilots one more time (usually more crud enters after a good cleaning), turn fuel screws to 2, clean air screws at front of carbs, check for carb leaks at boots, turn down idle, check tension and free play of throttle cable and go for a rip to see if it is cured. Not much else you can do besides that.
 
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