I just installed the heelclicker kit with Red spring in my primary. Engagement is right at 4500 as it should be. My concern is the harsh engagement. No matter how slowly I ease into it, the primary SLAMS into the belt at 4500r's. I can also hear what I am assuming is the primary slamming back apart when I come to a stop(could be the secondary I suppose).
I am new to SRX's and yamaha sleds in general. I bought the sled with 13,000 miles and a blown motor, never rode it with a stock motor or clutching. Just wondering if this is normal with the HC kit?
If not, what could be causing this?
Clutches were extremely dirty... I did what I could with parts cleaner and compressed air to clean the primary, but don't have a spider tool to pull it completely apart for a thorough cleaning. Will take it to the dealer for further cleaning if advised to do so.
Thanks in advance for any input!
I am new to SRX's and yamaha sleds in general. I bought the sled with 13,000 miles and a blown motor, never rode it with a stock motor or clutching. Just wondering if this is normal with the HC kit?
If not, what could be causing this?
Clutches were extremely dirty... I did what I could with parts cleaner and compressed air to clean the primary, but don't have a spider tool to pull it completely apart for a thorough cleaning. Will take it to the dealer for further cleaning if advised to do so.
Thanks in advance for any input!
with the spring out and cover bolted back on, does it slide easy or have a hitch? sometimes the slides get really dirty and corroded if the clutch has sat any time.
sometimes there is corrosion on the spider that will make the clutch catch.
what rollers you using?
sometimes there is corrosion on the spider that will make the clutch catch.
what rollers you using?
I didn't change out the rollers, I can measure them but clutching was all stock so I assumed those were too. Corrosion is possible, the sled had a lot of miles and sat with the motor trashed for a while.
Probably my best bet to take the clutch in and have the dealer go through it? Extremely frustrating that I can't buy an affordable tool to take my clutch apart and service it.
Probably my best bet to take the clutch in and have the dealer go through it? Extremely frustrating that I can't buy an affordable tool to take my clutch apart and service it.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
HAVE SOMETHING GOING ON, 4500 IS NOT A HARD ENGAGEMENT. ALSO DON,T TAKE IT TO YOUR DEALER.KEEP LOOKING. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Just have the dealer split the clutch apart. The u can clean and replace bushings and reinstall.
if you have anyone with welding skills just make one. all you need is a flat plate about 16 x 6. Drill three holes in the back and put three pins through it ground so they will fit in the back of the three holes in the clutch. slide them into the holes and weld the backs. now that you can set your clutch on the plate, take two more plates 4 x 6 and drill a hole in the center. Wrap one of the long ends of your clutch with a piece of rug or heater hose to protect the clutch from the plate denting it. Position the plate so the hole is about a half inch away from the edge of the clutch. transfer the hole to the lower plate with a marker and notice the angle of your plate. Now weld a bolt in centered on the mark to match this angel. This will be what holds the clutch onto the three pins. Drill several holes in the plate at each end to screw it to a bench. This is where you will screw it down to a bench. Make sure what you hook it to is really strong.
Now to make the spider tool, you need a steel bushing to fit over your clutch with the cover removed, 4 large flat washer (about 1 1/2) and a long bolt, about a foot long and 3/4 =1 inch. One flat washer will go under the bushing and be welded centered on the washer. take the three washers and cut a slut(you sadist, you liked that misspelling didn't you?) out of the washers the width of the spider just behind the rollers. They should slide on with no drag. Now, slide the bushing with the washer onto the clutch, then lay the washer on top so they lay against it. This will be what grabs the spider. weld them on. Now weld the large bolt on head first. put a bit of an angle on it so that the Jack handle or pipe you will use (4-5foot) will end up level with the lower part of the clutch. It puts less strain on the plate if the force is applied on the same plain.
Now, bolt here up, screw here down(you like that don't you, perve) Now you will find out why they call it a grunt tool.
a couple notes,
mark the clutch faces so you get them lined back up when tightening them. The clutch is balanced by the rear face. so if it is off, your balance is off.
If it has never been removed, you want to use a propane torch for several minutes on the threads. they use a stupid amount of locktite.
when you put it back together, only put loctite on the last thread.
Now to make the spider tool, you need a steel bushing to fit over your clutch with the cover removed, 4 large flat washer (about 1 1/2) and a long bolt, about a foot long and 3/4 =1 inch. One flat washer will go under the bushing and be welded centered on the washer. take the three washers and cut a slut(you sadist, you liked that misspelling didn't you?) out of the washers the width of the spider just behind the rollers. They should slide on with no drag. Now, slide the bushing with the washer onto the clutch, then lay the washer on top so they lay against it. This will be what grabs the spider. weld them on. Now weld the large bolt on head first. put a bit of an angle on it so that the Jack handle or pipe you will use (4-5foot) will end up level with the lower part of the clutch. It puts less strain on the plate if the force is applied on the same plain.
Now, bolt here up, screw here down(you like that don't you, perve) Now you will find out why they call it a grunt tool.
a couple notes,
mark the clutch faces so you get them lined back up when tightening them. The clutch is balanced by the rear face. so if it is off, your balance is off.
If it has never been removed, you want to use a propane torch for several minutes on the threads. they use a stupid amount of locktite.
when you put it back together, only put loctite on the last thread.
Just a further note the threads on the clutch are left hand too so don't be pulling it the traditional way thinking your loosening it up.
What I did for my clutch grunt tool was use a piece of schedule 40 steel pipe about 6" long,set it on the spider and mark the spots where the 3 arms were.I then took the pipe and cut three slots wide and deep enough to fit over the 3 arms of the spider;it should now sit evenly on the spider and flush (bottomed out) on the spider.I then used a piece of plate to cover the top over,welded that in and then used a length of 1/2" x 1 " flat bar ( about 3 ft but the longer the better for leverage) and welded that to the plate.You could use a piece of pipe for a bar too as long as it's strong enough to withstand pulling on it.
I pretty much did the same thing BTV did for my base to hold the stationary sheave in a clamp.
What I did for my clutch grunt tool was use a piece of schedule 40 steel pipe about 6" long,set it on the spider and mark the spots where the 3 arms were.I then took the pipe and cut three slots wide and deep enough to fit over the 3 arms of the spider;it should now sit evenly on the spider and flush (bottomed out) on the spider.I then used a piece of plate to cover the top over,welded that in and then used a length of 1/2" x 1 " flat bar ( about 3 ft but the longer the better for leverage) and welded that to the plate.You could use a piece of pipe for a bar too as long as it's strong enough to withstand pulling on it.
I pretty much did the same thing BTV did for my base to hold the stationary sheave in a clamp.
betheviper, you have any pics of your tool set-up? Going to weld something up at work.
Amazes me that no one makes an affordable tool for this.
Amazes me that no one makes an affordable tool for this.
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