Bleeding Viper coolant......am I good to go?

[klipper]

I was cleaning and adjusting carbs, put them back on and thought I'd just make sure air was out of cooling system. I've read all the posts on here about bleeding. I've never got anything out of the screw by the carb heater knob as I know many of you don't either. I just raise the rear of the sled about a foot or 18" above the head and bleed out at the srx rear cooler bleed screw.

Here is my concern / question and I'm hoping some of you can help me with your experiences. My coolant tank was full cold. When my sled heats up and I have the rear raised up with the bleed screw out and the coolant cap off, the coolant in the res gets high to overflowing before I see coolant out the back, so I have to put the cap on. I will see the open rear bleed screw sputtering coolant a bit, it shoots out if I give it gas or squeeze a hose up front, but its not pouring out of there on it's own. All my exchangers heat up, one right after the next, so am I good to go?

I've read that if all the exchangers heat up, you are circulating ok. My concern is that I can't leave the cap open in front and add coolant so it comes out the back because the front will overflow first.

Thoughts?

 

[stein700sx]

No need to bleed the system when removing carbs. I clamp off both hoses when I do this.
In order to bleed the system:
Fill coolant tank and install cap.
Bring engine up to temp
Raise rear of sled
Open rear bleed screw until all air is purged and just coolant is flowing out.
Periodically check coolant tank for fluid level while bleeding the system.

 

[klipper]

No need to bleed the system when removing carbs. I clamp off both hoses when I do this.
In order to bleed the system:
Fill coolant tank and install cap.
Bring engine up to temp
Raise rear of sled
Open rear bleed screw until all air is purged and just coolant is flowing out.
Periodically check coolant tank for fluid level while bleeding the system.

Thanks for the reply. But I really don't get a steady stream out the screw even when all my exchangers are hot. It's more like sputtering of the coolant out the hole with the shaking of the sled or a geyser if I give it some gas or squeeze a hose up front. Should I OVER-FILL at the tank in order to flow some out in a steady stream? Sorry if this seems ridiculously nit-picky, but I just want to get it right and not have trouble down the line. Thanks!

 

[mattysmith440]

Not sure if viper and srx are the same, but on my srx i would lift the front up 18" let it run with cap off and fill as needed, done this through a couple heat cycles and never had a problem. Just recheck it after a good run

 

[yamadogg]

Not sure if viper and srx are the same, but on my srx i would lift the front up 18" let it run with cap off and fill as needed, done this through a couple heat cycles and never had a problem. Just recheck it after a good run

for sure raise the front and the water will run to the rear exchanger pushin the air to the bleeder screw these pumps arent that strong to pushagainst air, gravity is ur friend keep the cap off then cap it then check again bleed screw whatch out it will spray u if ur not quick enough just keep feelin the heat exchangers follw the heat around the sled it will take a bit if it was bone empty but not for the carb circuit hope this helps

 

[staggs65]

Thanks for the reply. But I really don't get a steady stream out the screw even when all my exchangers are hot. It's more like sputtering of the coolant out the hole with the shaking of the sled or a geyser if I give it some gas or squeeze a hose up front. Should I OVER-FILL at the tank in order to flow some out in a steady stream? Sorry if this seems ridiculously nit-picky, but I just want to get it right and not have trouble down the line. Thanks!

my bet is you have the rear too high when you are bleeding it. you said 18 inches above the head earlier, that is way too high. you cant have the rear higher than the coolant in the bottle or you will just be letting air into the system.