snowmobilemike
New member
Time to pull track and change. Also two studs just passed thru cooler, coolant pouring out. I noticed doesnt seem to have seperate part for front cooler. Is welding only option or is there a way to get NEW front cooler ,I know engine probably has to come out ! May want to fix it or sell it for parts . Many good parts. What you think guys ? Studs just scraped from top to bottom in two areas. Lot of models are pretty close so chime in. THANKS . What to do !
yami1
Member
From what I understand its a major project putting in a front cooler. Pretty much have to tear whole sled apart and a real bear to get out once you do get there. On the other side of it I also have read on here where guys have had them welded and had good luck with them. So guess you flip a coin. Thats why I dont like studs im always nervous thats gonna happen on mine. I made a aluminum plate and fitted up in there on mine. Not sure if it would totally stop a stud but thought it worth a try
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I have never changed a front but have read on here they are no fun to change. After removing bolts/rivets etc you have to use some sort of jack or porta power to spread the tunnel a smidgen to let old slide out and new one in. More than a few guys have popped skis off, stand sled up on its front bumper and welded a hole shut.....having 2 holes it may be a little more involved. Keep in mind you will want/need to flush anti-freeze out of x-changer prior to applying heat. Fumes may kill you!
I have heard stories of pull the track and drain the coolant and have it welded. If you wled it, it will be as good as new and will not hurt anything and you'll be up and riding quicker than pulling it and repairing it. Good Luck...
OH, AND DO NOT use JB WELD to weld it... Have it welded for real.
OH, AND DO NOT use JB WELD to weld it... Have it welded for real.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
I had a an exchanger that was cracked so bad from hitting a rock that it couldn't be welded. It's bear all right!! Like Devil said once you get down to it, you need to spread the tunnel a smidge with a jack. I recommend welding it, if at all possible. The welder will want the track out and the coolant drained. If you have to replace it, you should be able to find one on Ebay if no one on the site has one. I noticed that the later years of the SXRs & Vmaxs they do have them as a separate part in the parts fiche. But they are pretty expensive.
snowmobilemike
New member
Thanks guys will have to think about this !
goody_700
New member
I know I'll catch some flak for this, but 3 winters ago, I had a stud poke a hole in my front exchanger. I tipped my sled on its side and used a propane torch to heat up the area by the hole to dry it. I used a marine type jb weld, was supposed to hold under all types of chemicals and liquids. Once I got the area dry and hot, I mixed up the jb weld stuff and stuffed it in the hole and surrounding area. Just my experience, but it hasn't leaked a drop in 3 years and 1500 miles. Not telling anyone to do it, but just my results with using it.
yami1
Member
Dont be scared to say what works dude. Some of these epoxy's they have out now are pretty damn amazing. Have a buddy in the aluminum business and they use some form of epoxy to put windows in skyscrapers. Easier and cheaper than welding and supposedly just as strong. I know thats what I will try if it ever happens
snowmobilemike
New member
will pull track and have it welded ! Unless someone is interested in a good ( rocket ) sled for themselfs at a discount ! Its been set up by the old maximium performance in N.Y. Looks and runs good. Needs track and cooler welded. Psi pipes and jetted,plastic skis,racing spindle,control rods,shocks revalved for extra travel,upgraded primary and rocket roller secondary,helmet plug,handle bar ends,map bag,oem cover,colored red boggies, 4th rear wheel,tunnel protectors,Its a triple 700 also have original skis stock muffler and psi triple modblaster pipes. Send me a pm. 

SX600abuser
Member
I agree with sxr700bandit.. Pull the track and have it welded. I pulled mine out and had it welded, YEAH its a beast!!! Not to mention a bunch of money in rivets. If you do pull it make sure to replace with oem type rivets.
There is really no reason why a good tig welder can't do it while on the sled. If they are really not wanting to sit on their bum under the sled, just drian the gas and prop it on its side.
There is really no reason why a good tig welder can't do it while on the sled. If they are really not wanting to sit on their bum under the sled, just drian the gas and prop it on its side.
SX600abuser said:I agree with sxr700bandit.. Pull the track and have it welded. I pulled mine out and had it welded, YEAH its a beast!!! Not to mention a bunch of money in rivets. If you do pull it make sure to replace with oem type rivets.
There is really no reason why a good tig welder can't do it while on the sled. If they are really not wanting to sit on their bum under the sled, just drian the gas and prop it on its side.
If I'm not mistaken Mr. Viper suggests just that.
Drain the fuel and a bit of coolant, stand it on the rear bumper and weld away. Perhaps even with the track in place (covered during welding) if you can get at it.
SpartaSXr
Member
cooler
I have repaired two of them. Pull the suspension and strap the track up, clean and weld damaged area. Have had real good results this way, removal is not recommended. Yes I stood the sled on its nose to insure the weld was correct.
I have repaired two of them. Pull the suspension and strap the track up, clean and weld damaged area. Have had real good results this way, removal is not recommended. Yes I stood the sled on its nose to insure the weld was correct.
SpartaSXr said:I have repaired two of them. Pull the suspension and strap the track up, clean and weld damaged area. Have had real good results this way, removal is not recommended. Yes I stood the sled on its nose to insure the weld was correct.
exactly what I do, be sure to drain the coolant from the sled first and run straight water thru it for a few mins before you do this, try to get all the antifreeze out. drain it ( I take off the hose off the front exchanger and tip it on side to get as much as I can out)and then stand it up on front bumper(you gotta take off the skis to do this).
Preheat the heck out of the crack to dry up the water so you can tig weld it good. I use mapp gas its way hotter then a propane torch is, wire brush the area after its good and hot, tig weld it up. Put sled back together.. your good to go.

once you take one out


you wont have to remove the engine.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
AND UNPLUG YOUR CDI. FOLLOW DON,s INSTRUCTION TO THE TEE. PUT A CHISEL RIGHT THROUGH MY FRONT COOLER AFEW YEARS BACK. HAD IT WELDED , GOOD TO GO. 3:16 (yammie tony)