recently picked up a heel clicker clutch weights with tunning "rivets". sorta new to this whole clutching stuff. when i bought the sled the owner had given me a "bang for your buck" clutch set up... 51/43 helix (he said from a rx-1) a green secondary spring at 70*. and change the rivets in the tip to 4.5g. now, i got a yellow secondary spring. not 100% sure on how to set this up, ive looked over the clutching set ups on that page and im not even sure what im looking at LOL... im looking for something more responsive and good for ripping out of corners. top speed im not to worried about, had it doing 160km/h (from the tach on my sled) thats plenty enought for me. My engine is stock, have a mbrp trail can, 144 studs. can anyone give me edvice on how to go about clutching this thing!
thanks alot, Jean.
thanks alot, Jean.
well, if you have a black viper............I have to help. I am kinda partial to black vipers...lol
let me get this straight, you just got a set of heel clickers, but.... the clutching thats in the sled is the stock viper 8ek weights(they say 8ek right on the sides) with 4.5 rivets in both holes, a rx1 factory helix, green dot sec spring at 70.
so if thats right whats the rpms your getting on the tach?
let me get this straight, you just got a set of heel clickers, but.... the clutching thats in the sled is the stock viper 8ek weights(they say 8ek right on the sides) with 4.5 rivets in both holes, a rx1 factory helix, green dot sec spring at 70.
so if thats right whats the rpms your getting on the tach?
clutching in the sled is stock. when i bought the sled, thats the set up the owner told me i could do for pretty cheap. im assuming thats the set up he had. all ive got at this time is the heel clicker weights, a yellow secondary spring and a green and yellow primary spring (comet)
ive attached a picture of the heel clickers.
ive attached a picture of the heel clickers.
Attachments
ok, well those are the hammertime h/c's... 
they had a nasty habit of coming apart at the pivot, I would not suggest using those.
I can however give you a cheap and easy upgrade to run and it will pep it up a good bit.
use your stock 8ek weights, just remove the outer most rivet and replace with a 4.5 gram rivet, reuse your stock yellow/white/yellow primary spring, get a 53/43 helix for the secondary and use a green dot secondary spring at 70, this will spiff it up quite a bit over stock.
the best overall set up I have found for a viper with single pipe is the 40-10 heel clickers, (but not the hammertime ones), youd need a differnt helix then above, a dalton 48/34 or 48/36. This gets them going pretty darn quick.
they had a nasty habit of coming apart at the pivot, I would not suggest using those. I can however give you a cheap and easy upgrade to run and it will pep it up a good bit.
use your stock 8ek weights, just remove the outer most rivet and replace with a 4.5 gram rivet, reuse your stock yellow/white/yellow primary spring, get a 53/43 helix for the secondary and use a green dot secondary spring at 70, this will spiff it up quite a bit over stock.
the best overall set up I have found for a viper with single pipe is the 40-10 heel clickers, (but not the hammertime ones), youd need a differnt helix then above, a dalton 48/34 or 48/36. This gets them going pretty darn quick.
coming apart eh...you mean where that sholder is?... and ya that first set up is exactly what the previous owner had told me to do.
BLKVIPER said:
the pivot rivets let go and the arm flys apart, breaking the front clutch and its s quite dangerous to your health coming apart at 8600rpm.... they explode, I would not use those in my sled.........
the rx1 helix is no good for a viper its listed as a 51/43 from yamaha but it shifts like a 48/42, too small...
get a aftermarket billet 53/43 helix if your going to get one.
hummm. now im second guessing my self... what if i took the shoulders off? would that be like a normal h/c weight?
Weights
I would listen to Don. If he said he wouldnt use them. Then I would not use them in any form. Get rid of them.
I would listen to Don. If he said he wouldnt use them. Then I would not use them in any form. Get rid of them.
Hey guys sorry to crash the thread.I have a quick question for Mr.Viper.Doesn't a stock viper have 4.5 grams in the outer and 3.6 grams in the inner from factory?? I just read in my factory service manual and it says 8ek-17605-00 clutch weight 39 grams ,90261-06033 steel rivet 4.5g(out position),90261-06034 steel rivet 3.6g(in position) and roller and bushing 8cr-17624-00 (grooved & machined). Not trying to show anybody up here just looking to gain knowledge.I'm I reading it wrong?? I'm I missing something??. Thanks guys have a great day!! 
grizz686 said:Hey guys sorry to crash the thread.I have a quick question for Mr.Viper.Doesn't a stock viper have 4.5 grams in the outer and 3.6 grams in the inner from factory?? I just read in my factory service manual and it says 8ek-17605-00 clutch weight 39 grams ,90261-06033 steel rivet 4.5g(out position),90261-06034 steel rivet 3.6g(in position) and roller and bushing 8cr-17624-00 (grooved & machined). Not trying to show anybody up here just looking to gain knowledge.I'm I reading it wrong?? I'm I missing something??. Thanks guys have a great day!!
no, you got it backwards, 17.2mm-4.5 inner and 13.9mm-3.6 tip factory.
staggs65
Moderator
the regular heelclickers look like the top left one in your pic except it's all one piece. so no, removing the heel section would not make it like the normal heelclickers. I guess it would then just be a "clicker"
these are the 40-10 ones, they are the ones I use all the time, no problems with these.
I ran a set of those hammertimes, they were working good but they did come apart at the pivot, lucky for me I caught it before they totally let go, they were just cracked and the rivet came apart on the 1 side...........stay away from those seriously...
I ran a set of those hammertimes, they were working good but they did come apart at the pivot, lucky for me I caught it before they totally let go, they were just cracked and the rivet came apart on the 1 side...........stay away from those seriously...
Attachments
OHH...Click!!.. light bulb went off...Lol I get it now.Yamaha means "in" as in the clutch weight being mounted on the the sheave as in towards the inner of the sheave.I was thinking clutch weight being held in your hand unmounted...lol . Thanks for clearing that up Mr.Viper...not the first time I thought of something backwards..oops!! Thanks again..
grizz686 said:OHH...Click!!.. light bulb went off...Lol I get it now.Yamaha means "in" as in the clutch weight being mounted on the the sheave as in towards the inner of the sheave.I was thinking clutch weight being held in your hand unmounted...lol . Thanks for clearing that up Mr.Viper...not the first time I thought of something backwards..oops!! Thanks again..
Its ok grizz, you gotta ask questions......
ride safe!