So just recently my viper started this bog/loaded up issue.
When wot then let off and get back on the throttle.. Bog bog, then goes.
Sometimes when just going slow then wot revs up and then bog bog.
Also when climbing a long pull at wot 9100 rpm and no bog I hear like small cutting out misfire type sound.
Did plug checks, look a little black in needle, main area.
I'm at 5500-8000 ft elev, slp pipes stock motor, flow rites in dash
150 mains 3 position on needles 50 pilot 2 out on fuel screw 30-40 deg out.
Doesn't always do it. Very intermittent. Carbs just fully cleaned, all sealed up tight, good non oxy 91 octane.
Too rich on needles for elevation?? Tors? Stator? Other?
Any help appreciated
Thank you
When wot then let off and get back on the throttle.. Bog bog, then goes.
Sometimes when just going slow then wot revs up and then bog bog.
Also when climbing a long pull at wot 9100 rpm and no bog I hear like small cutting out misfire type sound.
Did plug checks, look a little black in needle, main area.
I'm at 5500-8000 ft elev, slp pipes stock motor, flow rites in dash
150 mains 3 position on needles 50 pilot 2 out on fuel screw 30-40 deg out.
Doesn't always do it. Very intermittent. Carbs just fully cleaned, all sealed up tight, good non oxy 91 octane.
Too rich on needles for elevation?? Tors? Stator? Other?
Any help appreciated
Thank you
if its ran good all this time before and just started this now, I would have to say,no its not the needle settings, although a bit richer thats likely a good thing using only 91 octane in a viper.
I would lean more towards the tors switchs, there is 2 of them 1 on carb rack and 1 in the throttle lever.
stator could also be the start of a failure, but usually they wont pull peak rpm and then you get the flashing guage and such with the lights, all that stuff working good?
how many miles on the sled?
I would lean more towards the tors switchs, there is 2 of them 1 on carb rack and 1 in the throttle lever.
stator could also be the start of a failure, but usually they wont pull peak rpm and then you get the flashing guage and such with the lights, all that stuff working good?
how many miles on the sled?
2800 miles. Now that I think about it, most of the riding up til the last two times has been 0 deg. In the 30's and 40's now. I'd like to drop the needle a clip but don't want a kaboom either. I do ride no trails, 99% woods hill climbing and always on and off the gas to keep outta the lean mid area.
1st step will be bypass tors and try it this weekend.
Thanks MrViper
If its rich, explains the flooded out bog I get, but not the little cut outs at long wot climbing.
Yes guage works good, I don't have headlights installed.
1st step will be bypass tors and try it this weekend.
Thanks MrViper
If its rich, explains the flooded out bog I get, but not the little cut outs at long wot climbing.
Yes guage works good, I don't have headlights installed.
Last edited:
I see, well you can fine tune the needles with the shims and go in between the full posistion spots even if your going to be riding in warm weather. For instance if your at 3 now that would be the 3rd groove down with both of the plastic shims under the clip. If you wanted say a just a smidge leaner just remove 1 of the shims under the clip and put it up on top of the clip.
I would say its definitely the 30-40 degree temp differance thats making it bog and run a little messy, they will kinda blubber a bit when rich with pipes, the noise is more pronounced with the aftermarket pipes then the stock silencer.
I would say your better off to stay on the richer side only using 91 octane in a viper, the mag and the center cylinder need to be richer then the pto one odes, they have more compression and the ifn timing makes lots of heat. I personally would just move the plastic shim on the pto and leave the other 2 see if it cleans up if its going to be warm out.
you can try to bypass the tors wires if you still notice a pronounced misfire,see if it makes a differance.
I would say its definitely the 30-40 degree temp differance thats making it bog and run a little messy, they will kinda blubber a bit when rich with pipes, the noise is more pronounced with the aftermarket pipes then the stock silencer.
I would say your better off to stay on the richer side only using 91 octane in a viper, the mag and the center cylinder need to be richer then the pto one odes, they have more compression and the ifn timing makes lots of heat. I personally would just move the plastic shim on the pto and leave the other 2 see if it cleans up if its going to be warm out.
you can try to bypass the tors wires if you still notice a pronounced misfire,see if it makes a differance.