tripplec
New member
I plan to go over the sled more thoroughly this year (very little running the last 4 years).
Anyway areas I want to check and or lube plus sliders.- sliders are approaching a thin line on the side which I believe is the wear indicator. New slider installation on this long track. I did the other Skidoo formula two years ago by sliding them out/in a slot in the track opening. Took a while but labour intensive.
Whats the easiest way on the Venture to swap sliders?
Chain Case - It has never been apart by me. Maybe the dealer looked in there when I bought it 4 years ago. There is a lot of play left right when you swing the drive sheave but I compared to another Yamaha at the time at it appeared the same. What lube goes in after opening it (synthetic oil of some type)
The big drive sheave on the opposite end of the chain case shaft. Cleaning internally and lubing that. Would be the last area I would like to service. I do the various grease fittings front and back each year. Except last since it never left made the trails.
One step at a time. Nothing appears to be worn out and runs good (when I am on snow) PS this is a long track sled, 144" track I am told. It has stubs but are pathetic many are missing and just the other day I noticed on flapping on a piece of track after ripping out. Good thing it did not damage the cooler. I cut it out. They were installed by someone all in a row. Between the sliders, a row on the left another on the right without any zig or zag of offsets. Last of my concern since I am rarely on ice anymore (trail excepted when that is all here is).
Anyway areas I want to check and or lube plus sliders.- sliders are approaching a thin line on the side which I believe is the wear indicator. New slider installation on this long track. I did the other Skidoo formula two years ago by sliding them out/in a slot in the track opening. Took a while but labour intensive.
Whats the easiest way on the Venture to swap sliders?
Chain Case - It has never been apart by me. Maybe the dealer looked in there when I bought it 4 years ago. There is a lot of play left right when you swing the drive sheave but I compared to another Yamaha at the time at it appeared the same. What lube goes in after opening it (synthetic oil of some type)
The big drive sheave on the opposite end of the chain case shaft. Cleaning internally and lubing that. Would be the last area I would like to service. I do the various grease fittings front and back each year. Except last since it never left made the trails.
One step at a time. Nothing appears to be worn out and runs good (when I am on snow) PS this is a long track sled, 144" track I am told. It has stubs but are pathetic many are missing and just the other day I noticed on flapping on a piece of track after ripping out. Good thing it did not damage the cooler. I cut it out. They were installed by someone all in a row. Between the sliders, a row on the left another on the right without any zig or zag of offsets. Last of my concern since I am rarely on ice anymore (trail excepted when that is all here is).
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tripplec
New member
Should I be posting in the Tech Forum.
Maybe I need to talk to some mechanics on this somewhere else.
Maybe I need to talk to some mechanics on this somewhere else.
01sxr700
VIP Member
Sliders - Undo the screw at the front, Pull the slider back a couple of inches through one of the windows, start sled, put in reverse, rev it up and off comes the slider. Install new one through the window. Put a dab of blue lock-tite on the screw when installing.
Chaincase - If you don't want to disassemble then drain and and refill with 75 90 synthetic. It should take about 8 oz. Adjust the chain - Loosen the lock nut, rotate the secondary backwards to take the slack out of the chain and adjust the tensioner bolt until finger tight, back off 1/4 > 1/2 turn and tighten lock nut.
Clutches - Take them off, put them in the dishwasher for a cycle, spray some WD40 on them to prevent oxidation on them over the off season. DO NOT lube them as this will attract dirt and cause them to gum up. Spray them off with some brake clean in the fall to clean off the WD40, wash the belt and reinstall.
While you have the secondary off grease the clutch side jack shaft and drive shaft bearings. http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=52677 This is on the 4 stroke site but is the same for your sled.
If you don't need the studs and they are starting to rip out then remove them before they cause any damage.
Chaincase - If you don't want to disassemble then drain and and refill with 75 90 synthetic. It should take about 8 oz. Adjust the chain - Loosen the lock nut, rotate the secondary backwards to take the slack out of the chain and adjust the tensioner bolt until finger tight, back off 1/4 > 1/2 turn and tighten lock nut.
Clutches - Take them off, put them in the dishwasher for a cycle, spray some WD40 on them to prevent oxidation on them over the off season. DO NOT lube them as this will attract dirt and cause them to gum up. Spray them off with some brake clean in the fall to clean off the WD40, wash the belt and reinstall.
While you have the secondary off grease the clutch side jack shaft and drive shaft bearings. http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=52677 This is on the 4 stroke site but is the same for your sled.
If you don't need the studs and they are starting to rip out then remove them before they cause any damage.
ok i will give you some directon if i can.
if your slider plastic is thicker than 10mm, leave it alone as new will just wear to that point again in the first 50 miles or so. they usually wear to a certain point and stop for a long time there. i use an open end 10mm wrench to check mine. if replacing them, then you lube the slide rails to assist with installation. i like wd40 or dishsoap. you replace them the same way as you did on your doo. i like using a slide hammer to remove them with a pair of vicegrips.
chain case has a drain inside the tunnel next to the drive axle. just take a lot of pictures as you take it apart and stack your parts in order of removal and you should be fine. i use synthetic 80w90 in my chain case, this time around it happens to be royal purple but have used amsoil, motul, ultramar, and castrol with no ill effects. just make shure you only tighten the cain tensioner bolt finger tight when you re-tension it on assembly.
secondary clutch, just disassemble, clean, check for worn slider buttons and cracks and put together dry. they do not need lubrication.
if you are tearing into the chain case and removing the secondary clutch, it would be a good time to do the jackshaft bearing and spedo bearing if they have not been done recently to your knowlege.
sounds like it is time for a track. is this a 485 pogo venture or a 500/600 liquid trailing arm venture? the only tracks i see listed on royaldistributing.com are for 121" or 136" for that year.
if your slider plastic is thicker than 10mm, leave it alone as new will just wear to that point again in the first 50 miles or so. they usually wear to a certain point and stop for a long time there. i use an open end 10mm wrench to check mine. if replacing them, then you lube the slide rails to assist with installation. i like wd40 or dishsoap. you replace them the same way as you did on your doo. i like using a slide hammer to remove them with a pair of vicegrips.
chain case has a drain inside the tunnel next to the drive axle. just take a lot of pictures as you take it apart and stack your parts in order of removal and you should be fine. i use synthetic 80w90 in my chain case, this time around it happens to be royal purple but have used amsoil, motul, ultramar, and castrol with no ill effects. just make shure you only tighten the cain tensioner bolt finger tight when you re-tension it on assembly.
secondary clutch, just disassemble, clean, check for worn slider buttons and cracks and put together dry. they do not need lubrication.
if you are tearing into the chain case and removing the secondary clutch, it would be a good time to do the jackshaft bearing and spedo bearing if they have not been done recently to your knowlege.
sounds like it is time for a track. is this a 485 pogo venture or a 500/600 liquid trailing arm venture? the only tracks i see listed on royaldistributing.com are for 121" or 136" for that year.
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tripplec
New member
I did not think the sliders came off that easy but with reverse I guess there's an advantage. I did the old skidoo but no reverse and had to hammer it out. LOL
My concern is adjusting the chain case. When I bought this Venture I noticed the sheave can be swung back and forth quite a bit and always assumed by design. I compared against another Yamaha I met on the trail and his was essentially the same. Maybe you could restate the chain case adjustment in relation to play. Aren't there wear guides inside that need to be replaced or not?
The track is fine and as per the signature this is a Venture 600. I have attached a summer photo I just found on my computer. Track hang currently is a fair bit (looked like two fingers, 1.5" or more). I will set that when I am done with the other needs. One stud nearly ripped right out recently and I cut the remaining material to remove it. A number are missing however but I don't see any torn out.
My concern is adjusting the chain case. When I bought this Venture I noticed the sheave can be swung back and forth quite a bit and always assumed by design. I compared against another Yamaha I met on the trail and his was essentially the same. Maybe you could restate the chain case adjustment in relation to play. Aren't there wear guides inside that need to be replaced or not?
The track is fine and as per the signature this is a Venture 600. I have attached a summer photo I just found on my computer. Track hang currently is a fair bit (looked like two fingers, 1.5" or more). I will set that when I am done with the other needs. One stud nearly ripped right out recently and I cut the remaining material to remove it. A number are missing however but I don't see any torn out.
Attachments
my 2011 apex moves almost 1/8 turn and i only have 2100km on it.
there are no wear guide in the chain case. it uses a roller for tensioning the chain. what you do is loosten off the jam nut, tighten the bolt finger tight without wrenches and then tighten the jam nut back down tight without moving the bolt.
that pic looks like it is a 136" venture as the skid is the same as my dads 05 venture. just looks like the seat is shorter than his. that is a trailing arm sled.
there are no wear guide in the chain case. it uses a roller for tensioning the chain. what you do is loosten off the jam nut, tighten the bolt finger tight without wrenches and then tighten the jam nut back down tight without moving the bolt.
that pic looks like it is a 136" venture as the skid is the same as my dads 05 venture. just looks like the seat is shorter than his. that is a trailing arm sled.
tripplec
New member
the backrest is positioned forward but its a full two up sled.Maim said:
Thanks I'll look into that adjustment and see how far its currently off. I have manual printed from a 1998 Venture which should be the same. Its with the sled location so I'll look at it when I am back. There has to be at least an inch back/forth swing and its been like that more or less since I got it. Thats why I was wondering.
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tripplec
New member
I found that bolt for the chain. I never noticed it before. The manula i leafed through had a line drawing of it poor thought since you have to guess about exactly where to look. Doing the adjustment and oil check pretty well requires pulling the springs and removing part of the exaust. I'll do that when its warmer.
Checking the oil level as is without accurately cannot be done and getting something in the hole is likely. I notice is say GL3 oil (haven't heard of that but GL5) I'll go with the GL5 synthetic which is either 80 or 85W90.
Checking the oil level as is without accurately cannot be done and getting something in the hole is likely. I notice is say GL3 oil (haven't heard of that but GL5) I'll go with the GL5 synthetic which is either 80 or 85W90.
staggs65
Moderator
the reverse models have more rotational play than the non reverse models. I always assumed it was by design to aid the switch from forward to reverse and back.