jmlarson686
New member
Went riding the other day, a little bit into the ride my exhaust got really loud. So i stopped and noticed that it had cracked a 4" hole right at the bend. The piece is still attached is there an easy cheap way to patch it up? Kinda liked the sound it made also is there a way to get more sound out of the stock exhaust maybe drill some holes towards the end?
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Haqve a welding shop fix the hole, and there is a mod for the stock muffler to add some noise... See the tech section.
For sure get it fixed, messes with the back pressure i believe
jmlarson686
New member
Oh yeah i really does mess with the back pressure. Lost all my power had to limp it back to the truck. The metal is pretty thin not sure if it can be welded.
jmlarson686
New member
Sxr700Bandit said:
Where in the tech section? I'm still pretty new to this site.
01sxr700
VIP Member
It's in the tech pages under engines
First the things you will need
1. you will need a good drill
2. 2" metal hole saw (see pic below)
3. 12 inch drill extension
4. A magnet on a stick (like in car parts store) could come in handy
5. needle nose pliers or visegrips
OK first thing is take the springs that hold the can in place off with the
pliers. Then take the can out and turn it up side down, the exhaust pipe that
goes through the belly pan is where you will be drilling. Put the can on its
side in a vise with the exhaust port pointing out the side. Take a light and
look into the can, you will see a flat baffle plate inside. This is the
plate you will need to drill, this is the only baffle you need to drill.
Take your drill, extension, and hole saw and insert it in the exhaust hole and
drill. It will take some time and patience to drill through, but it will go.
Once through, if you're lucky the piece you drilled out will remain in the
hole saw. If not turn can right side up and shake it till the piece falls
out the bottom, or take the magnet and try and fish it out. Next just
reinstall your can, and enjoy the sweet sound and free HP.
pipebore.JPG (54364 bytes) pipeboortool.JPG (64188 bytes)
First the things you will need
1. you will need a good drill
2. 2" metal hole saw (see pic below)
3. 12 inch drill extension
4. A magnet on a stick (like in car parts store) could come in handy
5. needle nose pliers or visegrips
OK first thing is take the springs that hold the can in place off with the
pliers. Then take the can out and turn it up side down, the exhaust pipe that
goes through the belly pan is where you will be drilling. Put the can on its
side in a vise with the exhaust port pointing out the side. Take a light and
look into the can, you will see a flat baffle plate inside. This is the
plate you will need to drill, this is the only baffle you need to drill.
Take your drill, extension, and hole saw and insert it in the exhaust hole and
drill. It will take some time and patience to drill through, but it will go.
Once through, if you're lucky the piece you drilled out will remain in the
hole saw. If not turn can right side up and shake it till the piece falls
out the bottom, or take the magnet and try and fish it out. Next just
reinstall your can, and enjoy the sweet sound and free HP.
pipebore.JPG (54364 bytes) pipeboortool.JPG (64188 bytes)
jmlarson686
New member
did a temp fix with a beer can and some hose clamps for now. Will prob just find a pipe on ebay
I believe the only part you can weld on a exhaust is the manifold, correct me if i am wrong....i might have to do this on mine...pretty rustyyyyyy
sleeper_dave
New member
You can weld it, very carefully. It'll probably burn through like crazy. I did this on a pipe for an old SRV. Managed to get enough weld on it to hold it together, then "painted" over it with JB weld to seal it up. In my case an internal baffle was loose so I had to cut it apart, reattach the baffle, then put it back together, then reattach the other piece that fell off. Don't know how long it held up as I immediately sold the sled afterward.
jmlarson686
New member
How about brazing? would that work?
super1c
Super Moderator
I just welded my wifes after a backfire riped a nice crack on either side of the bend comming out of the manifold. It was easy to weld as my buddy let me do it, my first weld. (very special moment for me haha). Now i must have a welder...... I just cleaned up the edges nice with a wire wheel, layed a single weld down the crack after tacking together and painted it. Looks great and ran it all last weekend without any problems.
01sxr700
VIP Member
Brazing is too brittle, MIG or TIG with stainless.
braindead1684
Member
Yep it can be welded we just welded up the GYT-r pipe on my dad's 94 600. (my old spare pipe that had a couple holes) they are actually gonna weld his pipe too so we have to good spares it cracked at the bends as well really killed gas mileage 1/2 of my 96 :O
jmlarson686
New member
Ok I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow. Should I turn the temp down low on the welder? And does it matter if I have no argon gas.
super1c
Super Moderator
We just use a flux core wire feed welder, not sure what settings but the temp was down
jmlarson686
New member
super1c
Super Moderator
Almost exactly how mine was cracked. Clean it up and weld it. Should be fine!
jmlarson686
New member
Will do it right after work today. Thanks for all the help.
super1c said:
Bet you feel like a rock star now... LOL! Wait till you learn how to T.IG. weld, and when you lay a bead that is tiny and tough to see and really no one knows its there until you look hard.... Keep your eye open on CL or if you want to buy new(if your serious), look at TSC Hobart(made by Miller) makes a great 110v mig. Speaking of welding - When I got my Bender pipes for my SxR I took and ground all of the welds to smooth and blend them to try to make the pipes appear as one continous piece and not individual pieces that were assembled together to make one pipe. Then sent them out and had them jet hot coated at the time. Just my $.02
Now back to the original subject, If you tack the piece in place in its original location things should go okay for you. you may want to weld in differnet spots as not to concentrate the heat too much in one area causing to much stress and possibly warping the patch. I also wouldn't use alot of heat even if you use a 110 mig welder, maybe #2 setting and that may be to hot.
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super1c
Super Moderator
Sxr700Bandit said:
Speaking of welding - When I got my Bender pipes for my SxR I took and ground all of the welds to smooth and blend them to try to make the pipes appear as one continous piece and not individual pieces that were assembled together to make one pipe. Then sent them out and had them jet hot coated at the time. Just my $.02
Now back to the original subject, If you tack the piece in place in its original location things should go okay for you. you may want to weld in differnet spots as not to concentrate the heat too much in one area causing to much stress and possibly warping the patch. I also wouldn't use alot of heat even if you use a 110 mig welder, maybe #2 setting and that may be to hot.
Its funny you mention the hobart at TSC. I was just there looking at the hobart 140 handler. Seems to have everything i will need to become a backyard welder!!!! ROCK ONNNNN!!!!! LOL!!