97 sx700 Really the first ride of the season for me. It about 20 degrees out. smooth packed trail. The sled was turning 9000 rpms at wot. Is that to high?? I did a search and really couldn't find anything. 
You want to be right around 8300-8500 with the stock pipe.
K so what do I need to do to get that down 500 rpms?? Change the weights in the primary?? Maybe a new primary spring?? As far as I know the sled is all stock. With about 3300 miles. Thanks
Being a sx it has 8ch wights put some 4.5gr rivits in at tip should help.
01sxr700
VIP Member
Try cleaning or maybe a clutch overhaul is in order if this just started.
what belt are you running?
Sorry some how i had a double post.
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I don't know if it just started or not. Bought the sled last year and only road it once due to lack of snow where I live. The primary does look pretty dirty. The bolts that go through the rollers seem a little loose if that make any sense.
I should get a clutch puller and soak in some water to clean it?
Who make a good clutch puller?
I was also looking at the clutch guide in the tech pages. I see shift rpm is 8300. This may sound stupid but What does that mean?
The belt says 89L 17641-00 it looks like it has seen better days. Its Usable but time for a new one I think.
Oh I would say clutch engagement is about 4200rpm
I should get a clutch puller and soak in some water to clean it?
Who make a good clutch puller?
I was also looking at the clutch guide in the tech pages. I see shift rpm is 8300. This may sound stupid but What does that mean?
The belt says 89L 17641-00 it looks like it has seen better days. Its Usable but time for a new one I think.
Oh I would say clutch engagement is about 4200rpm
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I can't answer many of those questions but shift rpm is the rpm you want to be at when you are wide open throttle.
Sounds like you need a new belt, or a very good used one at least, and you should always keep a spare with the sled anyway. This alone may take care of some of your issue. How many miles does the sled/belt have?
Go to the Yamaha-motor website and download an owners manual for free:
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/service/viewmanuals/sport_manuals.aspx
I don't think they go back to 1997, but a 1998 SX700 is almost the same as your sled. Lots of good maintenance and operation information within, including belt width specs to compare with your belt.
Become a VIP member of this site, and go to the VIP General section, under "Tech or Service Help", and request a service manual for your sled. The information in this manual is extremely valuable to keeping the sled operating at its' best.
And of course, keep reading and searching on this website like it looks like you have done some of. There is endless information from some really smart people, and you can read for days and days.
Check clutch center to center distance, clutch offset, and belt deflection. Specs are here on this site and/or in the manuals. Some info might also be on the belt guard sticker. Note that your secondary clutch should slide back and forth on the jackshaft a small amount, +/- 1/16" or so.
I would not buy a cheapy/chinese/ebay whatever clutch puller, too many people have had problems with them and if it breaks or bends inside the clutch or crank, you're in for major headaches, or a big pocketbook hit to get it fixed. Buy a Yamaha or EPI or other quality brand that others on here may be able to recommend. Also, it's good to help the site sponsors, one of which was selling some for very reasonable pricing, you can ask him about mfg & quality, but I don't think he'd risk his reputation:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=90372&highlight=clutch
Yes, clean your clutches, both of them. Start with compressed air to get the looser stuff off, if it's bad you may want to wear a dusk mask and goggles, lol. Remove the clutches and clean in solvent and let dry or blow dry. Some people actually run the clutches thru the dishwasher, either with permission from the boss or when she's away. Inspect everything for cracks or damage, check individual components per the manuals listed above, especially if you are confident enough to disassemble the clutches and put back together properly, just keep track of or mark where everything goes before disassembly so you can reassemble the same way. Note that springs are involved so be careful and get a feel for how they are installed as the primary spring puts pressure on the clutch cover/cap, but the secondary spring is actually "wound" with the helix on the clutch. When reassembling, no lube on the clutches except for the jackshaft spline area where the seconday clutch slides on.
Go to the Yamaha-motor website and download an owners manual for free:
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/service/viewmanuals/sport_manuals.aspx
I don't think they go back to 1997, but a 1998 SX700 is almost the same as your sled. Lots of good maintenance and operation information within, including belt width specs to compare with your belt.
Become a VIP member of this site, and go to the VIP General section, under "Tech or Service Help", and request a service manual for your sled. The information in this manual is extremely valuable to keeping the sled operating at its' best.
And of course, keep reading and searching on this website like it looks like you have done some of. There is endless information from some really smart people, and you can read for days and days.
Check clutch center to center distance, clutch offset, and belt deflection. Specs are here on this site and/or in the manuals. Some info might also be on the belt guard sticker. Note that your secondary clutch should slide back and forth on the jackshaft a small amount, +/- 1/16" or so.
I would not buy a cheapy/chinese/ebay whatever clutch puller, too many people have had problems with them and if it breaks or bends inside the clutch or crank, you're in for major headaches, or a big pocketbook hit to get it fixed. Buy a Yamaha or EPI or other quality brand that others on here may be able to recommend. Also, it's good to help the site sponsors, one of which was selling some for very reasonable pricing, you can ask him about mfg & quality, but I don't think he'd risk his reputation:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=90372&highlight=clutch
Yes, clean your clutches, both of them. Start with compressed air to get the looser stuff off, if it's bad you may want to wear a dusk mask and goggles, lol. Remove the clutches and clean in solvent and let dry or blow dry. Some people actually run the clutches thru the dishwasher, either with permission from the boss or when she's away. Inspect everything for cracks or damage, check individual components per the manuals listed above, especially if you are confident enough to disassemble the clutches and put back together properly, just keep track of or mark where everything goes before disassembly so you can reassemble the same way. Note that springs are involved so be careful and get a feel for how they are installed as the primary spring puts pressure on the clutch cover/cap, but the secondary spring is actually "wound" with the helix on the clutch. When reassembling, no lube on the clutches except for the jackshaft spline area where the seconday clutch slides on.
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The sled has about 3300 miles on it. As far as I know its the original belt. The spare belt on is not a Yamaha one I don't see a manufacture on it. . Not sure I want to run it. But I could try it and see what the rpms are. I also contacted richierich for a clutch pluller. Thanks for the info. you guys are giving me I really appreciate it. Oh and I can run through the dishwasher any time the girlfriend has her own house. 
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Just an update. Put on a new belt. Started looking at the primary. The person I bought it from had it set up to run at 6000ft. It was jetted for Iowa witch is about 1500-2000ft. Guess that answer why 9100rpms thanks guys.
9826matt
New member
carbs
Backwoods M Max
New member
Re calibrate the clutches and re jet the carbs for your altitude. Shift rpm is what speed the engine should run at while changing ratio's and accelerating the sled. Full wot rpm is the speed that the engine should be able to accelerate to once the cvt is shifted out into high gear. Think of it as the rpm an engine will pull in top gear when it tops out drag limited. Most sleds are geared in the chain case stock so as to never shift out then they can't motor their way past shift rpm.
Tbirdsviper
New member
Hot water and a toothbrush works really well on the belt dust that collects everywhere. Never thought of a dishwasher, that sounds like a good idea.