snotwister
VIP Gold
03 viper: awful noise after hart 136, new track...and more
I wanted to chime in to a thread already started, but it would be my luck someone would call me out for hijacking it if it were in the least bit off course .. ahem.
onward. I just did a major bearing, wheel rework, installed the hart 136 kit and a new ripsaw 1.25/clipped every third/unstuded. Cooler protecters removed, tunnel guards removed. plenty of room.
I was very careful and organized so to be sure eveything whet back in the right spot.
The Jack and drive bearings done. no issues there. chain case together no prob. tension is correct too.
upon the first gingerly spin around yard, it ratcheted with ease. Cogs are 9 tooth and in great shape.
pull in, found track was way slack. no prob. sucked in the slack, all good. ran it again, ratcheting stopped as I suspected it would. BUT now there is an aweful sharp noise coming from what appears to be where plastic nose in front of the rails.. around the area where the hyfax begins.
all bearings are good, in their correct spots, offsets not changed..
two upper 7" wheels were replaced (i would have repacked them but banged up their seals and could not find new bearings anywhere. So I found some kimpex 7.125 wheels which are damn near identical with what came off except they are just about 1/8" larger dia. (178mm stock, 180mm aftermarket.) cant see this would make any difference.
the rail cones were a little loose, but not firm and tight.
it sounds like the clips are smacking that area and goodness it doesnt sound great.
everything appears to be in check. ..
I thought I saw somewhere someone had an issuse with those loose rail noses causing noise.. could not find that thread again.
the noise was not noticiable when the track was very slack on the first run (2 ginger circles at 2--3 mph)
oh and BTW, holy crap, what a pain fitting all that back together alone. I practically made love to the concrete floor wrestling that girl back into her home. long hot shower. yes please.
ONE MORE THING:
The control rods now show a space at the bottom. before with the 121, I had set it all up correctly, sitting passive, it did not show gap. gap were equal when I sat on it with gear. Now just sitting (not me on it) with the new 136 kit, (no drop plates installed either) .. is it the extra weight of the longer track forcing me to up the rear shock preload? (i leave the full rate on soft)
I wanted to chime in to a thread already started, but it would be my luck someone would call me out for hijacking it if it were in the least bit off course .. ahem.
onward. I just did a major bearing, wheel rework, installed the hart 136 kit and a new ripsaw 1.25/clipped every third/unstuded. Cooler protecters removed, tunnel guards removed. plenty of room.
I was very careful and organized so to be sure eveything whet back in the right spot.
The Jack and drive bearings done. no issues there. chain case together no prob. tension is correct too.
upon the first gingerly spin around yard, it ratcheted with ease. Cogs are 9 tooth and in great shape.
pull in, found track was way slack. no prob. sucked in the slack, all good. ran it again, ratcheting stopped as I suspected it would. BUT now there is an aweful sharp noise coming from what appears to be where plastic nose in front of the rails.. around the area where the hyfax begins.
all bearings are good, in their correct spots, offsets not changed..
two upper 7" wheels were replaced (i would have repacked them but banged up their seals and could not find new bearings anywhere. So I found some kimpex 7.125 wheels which are damn near identical with what came off except they are just about 1/8" larger dia. (178mm stock, 180mm aftermarket.) cant see this would make any difference.
the rail cones were a little loose, but not firm and tight.
it sounds like the clips are smacking that area and goodness it doesnt sound great.
everything appears to be in check. ..
I thought I saw somewhere someone had an issuse with those loose rail noses causing noise.. could not find that thread again.
the noise was not noticiable when the track was very slack on the first run (2 ginger circles at 2--3 mph)
oh and BTW, holy crap, what a pain fitting all that back together alone. I practically made love to the concrete floor wrestling that girl back into her home. long hot shower. yes please.
ONE MORE THING:
The control rods now show a space at the bottom. before with the 121, I had set it all up correctly, sitting passive, it did not show gap. gap were equal when I sat on it with gear. Now just sitting (not me on it) with the new 136 kit, (no drop plates installed either) .. is it the extra weight of the longer track forcing me to up the rear shock preload? (i leave the full rate on soft)
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sideshowBob
VIP Member
If the limiter straps are out a long way and track tension is high you can get a lot of noise from the track clips hitting rail tips.
Check your limiter strap setting and only have your track just tight enough to avoid ratcheting.
I also bolt and locktite my rail tips on as I lost one once that caused the rail to spear my brand new 144" ripsaw totally destroying it!
With the rail extensions you will need to reajust your suspension settings. After I went to a 144" setup on my 2002 SRX I followed Betheviper's suspension setup guide step by step and the results were great...the sled never rode as well as it does now.
Check your limiter strap setting and only have your track just tight enough to avoid ratcheting.
I also bolt and locktite my rail tips on as I lost one once that caused the rail to spear my brand new 144" ripsaw totally destroying it!
With the rail extensions you will need to reajust your suspension settings. After I went to a 144" setup on my 2002 SRX I followed Betheviper's suspension setup guide step by step and the results were great...the sled never rode as well as it does now.
Suprx125
New member
How much slack is hanging down in the middle of the track when the back end is hanging?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you can place silicone on the rails and then slide tips on and rivet.When it dries,tips will not be loose..My tips where really making noise on my 600.I added another rivet to the tips,now they are solid and no more clickety click going on.
snotwister
VIP Gold
Suprx125 said:How much slack is hanging down in the middle of the track when the back end is hanging?
get back to u on that. at first it was so slack . hanging there was an easy 2". I readjusted with 20lbs pulling even at middle of skid and got it back to 1.5" per manual.
...
snotwister
VIP Gold
may do the thru bolt and off the rivits, but now that it's all on, I don't even think a greased Vietnamese boy could get in there to get them out. ... stand by
snotwister
VIP Gold
sideshowBob said:If the limiter straps are out a long way and track tension is high you can get a lot of noise from the track clips hitting rail tips.
Check your limiter strap setting and only have your track just tight enough to avoid ratcheting.
I also bolt and locktite my rail tips on as I lost one once that caused the rail to spear my brand new 144" ripsaw totally destroying it!
With the rail extensions you will need to reajust your suspension settings. After I went to a 144" setup on my 2002 SRX I followed Betheviper's suspension setup guide step by step and the results were great...the sled never rode as well as it does now.
eeeou.. yes that would be my luck with the tip shooting off to the moon.
the limit straps are back to stock. 25mm. i did have to suck them all the way up in order to get the skid back in to help be clear the cogs to get it back up to their tunnel holes. ..
perhaps they stretched a lot having sucked them up all the way.
snotwister
VIP Gold
snotwister said:may do the thru bolt and off the rivits, but now that it's all on, I don't even think a greased Vietnamese boy could get in there to get them out. ... stand by
i went out there to look at the tips.. i couldnt remember if there was room to get at them, but thankfully its a straight shot with a drill. ..
ile try snugging them up.
yes, appears there is now a whiskar of a gap on the bottom of the rods now as the sled sits on its own.
I believe I will need to up the rear shock preload a turn or two to compensate for the new longer track. i like to keep the fra on soft. I weight about 17-80 wet with cargo add full tank gas its probably closer to 190
snotwister
VIP Gold
many thanks for the help so far..
ok so i went back .. laying there in bed.. thinking about it.. I looked very carefully all under there and did notice, and considering the track has not even been used yet, grazing on the face of the clips. .. only place it could happen is at the tips.. my thinking is..
since limit straps are original, they have never been pulled tight before, and in the time they were tight while i set the skid in, perhaps they stretched. .. if so, it would cause the rails to drop just enough to create a steeper approach angle of track where the clips first meet the rail tips. thus grazing and making clack clakty.
even though i have 25mm of bolt showing (per manual..) probably its now 25mm on a set of stretched straps.
additionally i should measure each side to confirm the straps are indeed pulling on both sides evenly
..
i wont need more weight transfer now anyway because of the new longer track so i guess by drawing up the straps a bit more to compensate from them being tightened to max duning install, it will decrease the approach angle of track to tips, theoretically reducing the clackaty clak slap slap ya mama
sorry for being long winded. thanks in advance for your input. 'i loves me some viper'
ok so i went back .. laying there in bed.. thinking about it.. I looked very carefully all under there and did notice, and considering the track has not even been used yet, grazing on the face of the clips. .. only place it could happen is at the tips.. my thinking is..
since limit straps are original, they have never been pulled tight before, and in the time they were tight while i set the skid in, perhaps they stretched. .. if so, it would cause the rails to drop just enough to create a steeper approach angle of track where the clips first meet the rail tips. thus grazing and making clack clakty.
even though i have 25mm of bolt showing (per manual..) probably its now 25mm on a set of stretched straps.
additionally i should measure each side to confirm the straps are indeed pulling on both sides evenly
..
i wont need more weight transfer now anyway because of the new longer track so i guess by drawing up the straps a bit more to compensate from them being tightened to max duning install, it will decrease the approach angle of track to tips, theoretically reducing the clackaty clak slap slap ya mama
sorry for being long winded. thanks in advance for your input. 'i loves me some viper'
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stein700sx
VIP Member
I do beleive Hartmann suggest the limiter straps to be set at 35mm and the transfer rods be adjusted to the first groove.
Check the rear of the hyfax. Had an awful noise when I did not cut the hyfax short enough. Track was turning in the radius of the rear wheels and the hyfax was protruding in that radius. Trimmed it back and was all good.
Check the rear of the hyfax. Had an awful noise when I did not cut the hyfax short enough. Track was turning in the radius of the rear wheels and the hyfax was protruding in that radius. Trimmed it back and was all good.
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