So I stripped off the threads

norwegian

norwegian

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When trying to take off the nut on the rear axle. Do I need a whole new rear axle?
8L8-47520-02-00 ?
 
I see, now that sounds a little too complicated for me. Looks like I have to replace the axle, but since it goes through 4 wheels and some washers/collars and not what, do I need those too?
 
no, you just need the axle and the nut. i would check all the bearings on the wheels while you have it out though.
 
Thanks. I already have the nut. How are you supposed to get the wheels off the axle?
 
You will have to loosen the tension on the track and this will release the pressure on the axle and wheels and will let the axle slide out. You may be able to find a used axle insted of purchasing a brand new one. I would also repalce the nut as there is a reason why the threads were torn off of the axle shaft.
 
Yes, the nut I have is brand new. Don't I have to take off the whole rear skid and beat the wheels off or use a tool for that? I guess you cant just slide the whole thing out?
 
Can I try to make new threads on the bolt end that is stripped off, or will that just not do?
 
norwegian said:
Can I try to make new threads on the bolt end that is stripped off, or will that just not do?
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it's certainly worth a shot to run a die over it and see if it will catch or not. It will all depend on just how bad the threads are f'd up. you should be able to see if the die gave you a good clean thread or not.
 
try that first because taking the axle off aint'd bad,its getting all the washers,spacers and wheels all back on which will be a b*tch and lots of patience.I stripped mine once,was pissed..but replaced with new.Did it in the Fall before snow came..no pressure..but first time was a lot of #$%&* #$%&*
going on I'll tell you.Take it to your dealer to do..you have the $$ anyways..lol
 
norwegian said:
Yes, the nut I have is brand new. Don't I have to take off the whole rear skid and beat the wheels off or use a tool for that? I guess you cant just slide the whole thing out?
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If rethreading it doesn't pan out, you don't have to beat anything off unless something seized together with the axle, or perhaps a bearing seized and the inner race spun on the axle and wore into it thus creating a step to get caught. I don't think either of these are common though.

You may need to use some gentle persuasion with a soft mallet or dead blow, and I've had good luck with turning the axle out with a ratchet or by hand if it's out far enough to get a grip, at the same time as tapping on the other end.

Whatever you do if you start to remove the axle, review a parts diagram of your sled and compare with your actual setup so you know where all the collars, washers, wheels, etc, go when they start falling out, there's really not that many when you think about it.
 
YAMAHOWIE said:
I think you should be able to cut-off the bad thread, drill and tap the axle, and put a short bolt and washer with loctite on it as a replacement method.... ;)!
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This doesn't sound like a bad solution at all, and would be easy to do with the aluminum axle. You could even mimic the standard axle by locktighting a stud in the axle instead of a bolt, then install a washer, and nut like it was originally. I bet M10 or M12 would work good for this, maybe even M14 but that's getting pretty big. You could even drill the outer end of the stud for a cotter pin.
 
If you do end up replacing the axle with another, there used to be a tool available, maybe still is somewhere, that would thread onto the end of your replacement axle, and would help with pushing the old axle out thru all of the wheels, collars, spacers until the new axle was in.

The tool is a length of round rod that was the same diameter as the axle, and coned/rounded on the leading end to help pick up each component as it made it's way thru, pushing out the old axle. The tool would then be removed from the new axle and you're good to add the nut and tighten/adjust the track.

Without this tool, you could try to duplicate it by winding some tough tape (electrical comes to mind) in a cone shape on the threads of the new axle, just don't make the tape larger than than the axle diameter. You might have to tear the tape into narrow sections to build up the large part of the cone, and you could try to overlap the tape over the very end of the axle/threads to help with lead-in as the axle slides thru and meets each component. Some grease on the tape and axle may help, as well as turning the axle (in the direction that won't unwind the tape) as it goes in.

Either of these would obviously reverse the axle direction in the sled, so if you wanted more practice at this you could pick up yet another axle and push it back thru the other way so your direction is back to normal! :lol:, but I don't think I'd worry about it too much...
 
So I came up with a solution, which I cannot recommend to anyone else. But I was able to get the nut off the axle bolt and upon inspection, I realized that it had more thread at the end of it than on the inside (near the wheel). So, I bought 3-4 lock washers and put them where there was virtually no threads left, and then I put a brand new nut on the end, which had maybe 20-30% threads left (thread height). Amazingly, I was able to tighten it enough to be sure that the rear axle will not move. I think the new nut just "ate" it's way into the bolt and cought grip. I could hear and see the locking washers clicking together and I could see this was going to succeed.

Of course, I was not able to put the "dovel pin" into place because the nut covers the hole, but still.
I checked with the other side, and it too was tight, so there's no concern that the axle will be lose.

I do realize that when I replace the shaft, I will have to replace the nut too, because I put it on this shaft.
 
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