I wanted to do a quick write up for those of you looking to add a 2 wheel axle to the rear of your machines. This particular job was done on a 03' MM with the stock 4 wheel rear axle. For those of you with other skids that have the 3 wheel axle will be the same idea, however, you will need to modify the spacers.
I did this with the skid still installed. If you have any other reason to pull the skid out, I would do it that way. Getting all the spacers/tensioners/wheels/washers to align can be frustrating. It's important to recall the order in which everything goes back together. When we are done, there will be much less to put back.
First, I jacked up the back end until the track is just off the floor. Then remove the axle nut, loosen the track all the way and pull the whole axle assembly out. I like to use a strap to pull some of the loose track weight off of the wheels along with a block of wood under the track to create some work space.
Next, take the bare axle and temporarily put it back in between the rails. Push it through to where the threads are sticking out and the full width of the shaft is held in about 1/8" - 1/16" from the outside of the rail. Example in the picture below.
Once you have it where you want, go around to the bolt side and make a mark around the axle where it is flush with the outside of the rail. (*Note* Make sure the axle is straight between the rails before you make your mark. Press it all the way forward or back, which ever) In the picture below, you can see where I made my mark.
Now is where the little bit of fun comes in. Cut the axle just to the inside of the mark you made. I stuck the axle in a vise and used a hacksaw. there are many options on how to make this cut, use what you're comfortable with. A little sanding or filing will take care of imperfections. The cut off (Bolt side) can be discarded.
Now, mark the center of the cut end of the axle(I recommend hitting it with a point to give your drill bit a nice starting point), drill and tap. Use what ever size tap you feel comfortable with. I wouldn't go too small, keep it strong. Make sure you drill and tap it deeper than the bolt you choose to use.
Use a good thread locker on the bolt you choose and place a fender washer underneath. (I also decided to use a lock washer) Go ahead and thread it in.
In the image below, the blue arrow points to the discarded axle part. The right red arrow is the side that has been hacked and tapped with the new washers and bolt installed.
This is just a close up of the new bolt end
Reassembly time. The spacers that were previously on the outside of the rails are no longer needed. Everything in between the rails should go back just as before. Take your time to make sure everything is in order. Pictures below are after I pushed the axle back through with all parts in order.
(Notice above that after put back in, the full width of the axle body still sits slightly inside the rails)
Once you have it through, install another fender washer and screw the axle nut back on loosely.
Finally,tighten up/align your track then you can fully tighten down the axle nut. And that's all there is to it.
I did this with the skid still installed. If you have any other reason to pull the skid out, I would do it that way. Getting all the spacers/tensioners/wheels/washers to align can be frustrating. It's important to recall the order in which everything goes back together. When we are done, there will be much less to put back.
First, I jacked up the back end until the track is just off the floor. Then remove the axle nut, loosen the track all the way and pull the whole axle assembly out. I like to use a strap to pull some of the loose track weight off of the wheels along with a block of wood under the track to create some work space.
Next, take the bare axle and temporarily put it back in between the rails. Push it through to where the threads are sticking out and the full width of the shaft is held in about 1/8" - 1/16" from the outside of the rail. Example in the picture below.
Once you have it where you want, go around to the bolt side and make a mark around the axle where it is flush with the outside of the rail. (*Note* Make sure the axle is straight between the rails before you make your mark. Press it all the way forward or back, which ever) In the picture below, you can see where I made my mark.
Now is where the little bit of fun comes in. Cut the axle just to the inside of the mark you made. I stuck the axle in a vise and used a hacksaw. there are many options on how to make this cut, use what you're comfortable with. A little sanding or filing will take care of imperfections. The cut off (Bolt side) can be discarded.
Now, mark the center of the cut end of the axle(I recommend hitting it with a point to give your drill bit a nice starting point), drill and tap. Use what ever size tap you feel comfortable with. I wouldn't go too small, keep it strong. Make sure you drill and tap it deeper than the bolt you choose to use.
Use a good thread locker on the bolt you choose and place a fender washer underneath. (I also decided to use a lock washer) Go ahead and thread it in.
In the image below, the blue arrow points to the discarded axle part. The right red arrow is the side that has been hacked and tapped with the new washers and bolt installed.
This is just a close up of the new bolt end
Reassembly time. The spacers that were previously on the outside of the rails are no longer needed. Everything in between the rails should go back just as before. Take your time to make sure everything is in order. Pictures below are after I pushed the axle back through with all parts in order.
(Notice above that after put back in, the full width of the axle body still sits slightly inside the rails)
Once you have it through, install another fender washer and screw the axle nut back on loosely.
Finally,tighten up/align your track then you can fully tighten down the axle nut. And that's all there is to it.
YamaChris
New member
Nice write up and pics. I have an extra axle that I might give this a try. Have you had a chance to try it? Any noticeable change in handling or sidehilling?
nice job and thanks for sharing your efforts.
not intending to undermine your efforts, but for those without your capabilities and tooling at hand, you can short cut the cutting of the axle by keeping the spacers outboard of the rails and adding a washer to each side. this gives you the opportunity to return to stock, but the appearance isnt as neat and clean compared to shortening the axle. the axle shafts are aluminum and any cut-off saw/chop saw with carbide teeth is much more effortless than the hack saw. you have more patience than myself.
the difference is more mental, in my opinion, having sleds with and without this set up, its not something you will notice right off the get go, more of a subtle feel or brain fuel, not to mention dropping weight from an already heavy skid. anything you can do to help is a step forward. the cool factor is priceless! never had any issues, but keep in mind its a deep snow modification, not something for the lake/trail guys.
you can punch that roll pin out, heat the axle to free the loctite, and re-thread metric to re use the oem bolt for us cheap farts that want to save a buck on hardware. use red loctite going this route or redrill for a roll pin.
not intending to undermine your efforts, but for those without your capabilities and tooling at hand, you can short cut the cutting of the axle by keeping the spacers outboard of the rails and adding a washer to each side. this gives you the opportunity to return to stock, but the appearance isnt as neat and clean compared to shortening the axle. the axle shafts are aluminum and any cut-off saw/chop saw with carbide teeth is much more effortless than the hack saw. you have more patience than myself.
the difference is more mental, in my opinion, having sleds with and without this set up, its not something you will notice right off the get go, more of a subtle feel or brain fuel, not to mention dropping weight from an already heavy skid. anything you can do to help is a step forward. the cool factor is priceless! never had any issues, but keep in mind its a deep snow modification, not something for the lake/trail guys.
you can punch that roll pin out, heat the axle to free the loctite, and re-thread metric to re use the oem bolt for us cheap farts that want to save a buck on hardware. use red loctite going this route or redrill for a roll pin.
Snowdad4 is absolutely right. If you have a chop saw it will make a quick and clean cut. I had been working on a framing job at home and was too lazy to change the rough cut blade out for something more suitable to cut the shaft. And thank you for mentioning the rollpin/locktite for the bolt side. I used red locktite before threading mine back in.
I did just get back from a ride today of about 35-40 miles playing in the mountains with lots of climbing/side-hilling and I would say the difference is marginal. The snow had a bit of a crust so flicking the sled over was a real chore. I'd imagine I would have noticed a bit more had there been more fluff. The main reason I did this was to cut weight as I have been doing just that anywhere I can within budget. As Snowdad4 mentioned, and in my opinion, the cool looks don't hurt either
It absolutely is a mountain mod and wouldn't really recommend it for those that spend much of their time on trails.
I did just get back from a ride today of about 35-40 miles playing in the mountains with lots of climbing/side-hilling and I would say the difference is marginal. The snow had a bit of a crust so flicking the sled over was a real chore. I'd imagine I would have noticed a bit more had there been more fluff. The main reason I did this was to cut weight as I have been doing just that anywhere I can within budget. As Snowdad4 mentioned, and in my opinion, the cool looks don't hurt either
It absolutely is a mountain mod and wouldn't really recommend it for those that spend much of their time on trails.
YamaChris
New member
That's the nice thing about my project sled, nice to experiment. Hey the original firecat did it on a flat lander sled. It does look cool too
sleddineinar
VIP Member
Nice job, nice clean right up. I've been pondering doing this to mine.