99stingersrx700
New member
I'm fresh in the Yamaha world from a skidoo. Picked up a 99 srx 700 a few weeks ago and finally got to ride this weekend and has a few issues. From take off anywhere to 3/4 throttle it has a vibe, don't feel it at WOT, is this the same as the notorious 98 crank issue I've read? the old track was studded but the new one is not. Put 200 miles on this weekend and blew two belts, I haven't checked alignment yet but could this be related to the vibration? Also having tors issues. Went from fairly intermittent to quite often throughout the day. If I shut off and restart its fine.
It could be the crank but it wasn't as common in the 99's as the 98's. Keep this in the back of your mind, but take care of other issues first to see if they solve the vibration issue.
These sleds aren't known for blowing belts at all, especially the Yamaha belts. So yes, check your clutch alignment. Also check to make sure there are no cracks running thru the sheaves that could eat away at the belt and cause it to blow. Are your clutches running hot, especially when the belt blew? They should be warm/cool to the touch at all of your smoke or bladder breaks on the trail. I've ridden with quite a few Skidoos over the years, many of them have had to change belts in front of me on the trails. I've never had to change mine in front of them, and theirs were much more expensive.
Check to make sure none of the belt fabric/stringers are wound around the crankshaft behind the primary clutch, as they can cut into the crank seal and cause an air leak that can burn down the PTO cylinder.
Clean the clutches, make sure the bushings aren't worn out, primary or secondary. Make sure the primary rollers and weights aren't sloppy or worn out. Are the plastic buttons still in place and good condition for the secondary helix. Does your secondary "float" in and out on the jackshaft by about 1/16"-1/8"? How many miles on the sled?
The bearing behind the secondary, and the bearing behind the speedometer pickup on the driveshaft below the secondary are two areas to check thoroughly. These usually aren't maintained very well and they do wear out, even to the point that the balls are gone. This could be your vibration issue. If the bearings appear good, you can carefully pick the rubber seal out and inspect closer. If the bearing looks good, and with plenty of clean grease (rare), put the seal back in, but usually you'll want to clean as much of the old dirty dried grease out and then repack with new grease, trying to push the grease thru the ball cages in 3-4 locations around the bearing. I wouldn't pack the bearing chock full, as the grease will get distributed once the bearing turns.
Service the chaincase, cleaning out any accumulated gunk, and check these bearings as well. They aren't as know for failing as much as the two on the other side, but they can fail.
Check the throttle cable adjustment, as a tight cable will trigger TORS. Once you have the throttle cable and idle speed adjusted properly, you might as well also check the oil pump cable adjustment.
You can search this site in various locations to find endless information on these maintenance and adjustment items, and SRX's in general. You can read for days. You can also download the Owners manual from Yamaha's website for free, which details all of the common operation, maintenance, and adjustment specs. If you become a VIP on this site for $15, you can contact one of the moderators that deal with the factory service manuals in the VIP section, and receive a download for that as well, then you will have even more thorough service information.
These sleds aren't known for blowing belts at all, especially the Yamaha belts. So yes, check your clutch alignment. Also check to make sure there are no cracks running thru the sheaves that could eat away at the belt and cause it to blow. Are your clutches running hot, especially when the belt blew? They should be warm/cool to the touch at all of your smoke or bladder breaks on the trail. I've ridden with quite a few Skidoos over the years, many of them have had to change belts in front of me on the trails. I've never had to change mine in front of them, and theirs were much more expensive.
Check to make sure none of the belt fabric/stringers are wound around the crankshaft behind the primary clutch, as they can cut into the crank seal and cause an air leak that can burn down the PTO cylinder.
Clean the clutches, make sure the bushings aren't worn out, primary or secondary. Make sure the primary rollers and weights aren't sloppy or worn out. Are the plastic buttons still in place and good condition for the secondary helix. Does your secondary "float" in and out on the jackshaft by about 1/16"-1/8"? How many miles on the sled?
The bearing behind the secondary, and the bearing behind the speedometer pickup on the driveshaft below the secondary are two areas to check thoroughly. These usually aren't maintained very well and they do wear out, even to the point that the balls are gone. This could be your vibration issue. If the bearings appear good, you can carefully pick the rubber seal out and inspect closer. If the bearing looks good, and with plenty of clean grease (rare), put the seal back in, but usually you'll want to clean as much of the old dirty dried grease out and then repack with new grease, trying to push the grease thru the ball cages in 3-4 locations around the bearing. I wouldn't pack the bearing chock full, as the grease will get distributed once the bearing turns.
Service the chaincase, cleaning out any accumulated gunk, and check these bearings as well. They aren't as know for failing as much as the two on the other side, but they can fail.
Check the throttle cable adjustment, as a tight cable will trigger TORS. Once you have the throttle cable and idle speed adjusted properly, you might as well also check the oil pump cable adjustment.
You can search this site in various locations to find endless information on these maintenance and adjustment items, and SRX's in general. You can read for days. You can also download the Owners manual from Yamaha's website for free, which details all of the common operation, maintenance, and adjustment specs. If you become a VIP on this site for $15, you can contact one of the moderators that deal with the factory service manuals in the VIP section, and receive a download for that as well, then you will have even more thorough service information.
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Buy yourself a primary puller bolt so that you can take it off and pull it apart and really inspect all the parts inside there.The rollers should all be smooth and turn freely,the flyweights should move up and down easily and not have any side to side slop indicating a bad bushing.The plastic spider buttons shouldn't have any flat spots and the areas in the sliding sheave where they move should be clean,this is easiliy done with an air compressor.The sliding sheave should move on the spider shaft without binding but there is a bushing there that does wear so if you find too much slop or it's sticking you'll need to have the two pieces separated and a new bushing pressed in.If you have a welder or a friend that does you can build a grunt tool to do the work on your primary rather than pay a dealer to do it.It doesn't take many trips to a dealer to have little things like this done before it become expensive and building a couple of tools of your own is way cheaper in the long run.
If your looking for other areas to check then like srx700c said bearings,chaincase,jackshaft and driveshaft (axle) ,the axle one being to most commonly overlooked .
Clutch centre to centre as well as off set,if either of these are off it will certainly make short work of a belt. Check your engine mounts to make sure none are broken or loose.
If your looking for other areas to check then like srx700c said bearings,chaincase,jackshaft and driveshaft (axle) ,the axle one being to most commonly overlooked .
Clutch centre to centre as well as off set,if either of these are off it will certainly make short work of a belt. Check your engine mounts to make sure none are broken or loose.