WedigSRX
Member
Have any of you guys checked how much ski weight you have on your skis.
I just reworked by skid and did the whole track alignment deal, and adj ski caster. I went with the Betheviper set-up on shock pre-load and it works great, except the handle bar turning effort increased allot. And now I have to add some preload to the center shock because it bottoms out to much in the ruff stuff. Adding center shock preload will decrease steering effort but I don't want to take to add too much center shock pre-load.
Just wondering if anyone has broke it down using scales, I understand things will be diffrent with rider weight but looking for a window. Currentley with 220lb rider and full of fuel I have 161lbs on each ski.
Maybe I am a little crazy, but in WI I don't have much time for testing.....
I just reworked by skid and did the whole track alignment deal, and adj ski caster. I went with the Betheviper set-up on shock pre-load and it works great, except the handle bar turning effort increased allot. And now I have to add some preload to the center shock because it bottoms out to much in the ruff stuff. Adding center shock preload will decrease steering effort but I don't want to take to add too much center shock pre-load.
Just wondering if anyone has broke it down using scales, I understand things will be diffrent with rider weight but looking for a window. Currentley with 220lb rider and full of fuel I have 161lbs on each ski.
Maybe I am a little crazy, but in WI I don't have much time for testing.....
is this a stock srx? Those have a huge center spring, I can not imagine having heavy stearing with the stock spring, even with the tension backed off. What skis and carbides do you have, also, what ski rubber and have you shimmed the ski. Sometimes people shim the skis that already have the S rubber, causing it to turn harder, add a long big bar to it and it increases this more.
As far as riding hard, it is an srx and you should not even try to make it ride good in stock trim, the best you can hope for with stock shocks, is for it to handle good, ride good, hook up decent on groomed trail, you will have to stand up for the rest. They come with around 6in of true verticle travel, not even a perfect shock can do much with 6inches.
As far as riding hard, it is an srx and you should not even try to make it ride good in stock trim, the best you can hope for with stock shocks, is for it to handle good, ride good, hook up decent on groomed trail, you will have to stand up for the rest. They come with around 6in of true verticle travel, not even a perfect shock can do much with 6inches.
WedigSRX
Member
stock componets, except the middle shock has some valving done by hauck a number of years ago, not sure what was done or if it is still in their(with no preload the shock is pretty stiff compared to a viper). Both shocks were rebuilt @ Goodwin two years ago so they are pretty fresh. I only put 100 miles on last year.I currently have 1 turn of preload on the center shock. (bassically enough to keep the spring and washers in check)
I put new rubbers in under the skis, and added the shim per bergstrom to try and help with darting. Maybe that is the cause of hard steering per your note. I have some high miles on I believe 10" of carbide, 144 studs down the center.
The only reason I am saying I need to add center shock preload is on my last ride with 6" plus of fresh powder, we hit some trails that were not groomed. I did not think it bottomed out to bad, but after further inspection I am now missing both rubbers and the little metal brackets that helped make them live. (They were new and installed correctly)
So I am leaning towards adding some preload because the bumpers disapeared.
I really like how it rides after doing your set-up, I am just a little worried I may need to add preload to the center shock for a little more insurance. Riding in SE WI the trails tend to be a little ruff (when we get snow) and I tend to hit the woops pretty fast and under aceleration no matter how tall they are. (with-in reason) I do stand in the ruff stuff. I totally agree with you on the limitations of the skid. "no action suspention"
Since I have your attention, I am getting ski lift in the corners when riding aggresivly. I can take care of most of it by hanging off the sled, but was wondering if I can get it to handle flatter in the corners ? Would you recommend reducing the upper gap a little ?
FYI:If possible I don't want to loose any straight line aceleration traction, otherwise I will just live with the ski lift.
Thanks a ton on your input, my sled now rides better than it did new !!!!
I put new rubbers in under the skis, and added the shim per bergstrom to try and help with darting. Maybe that is the cause of hard steering per your note. I have some high miles on I believe 10" of carbide, 144 studs down the center.
The only reason I am saying I need to add center shock preload is on my last ride with 6" plus of fresh powder, we hit some trails that were not groomed. I did not think it bottomed out to bad, but after further inspection I am now missing both rubbers and the little metal brackets that helped make them live. (They were new and installed correctly)
So I am leaning towards adding some preload because the bumpers disapeared.
I really like how it rides after doing your set-up, I am just a little worried I may need to add preload to the center shock for a little more insurance. Riding in SE WI the trails tend to be a little ruff (when we get snow) and I tend to hit the woops pretty fast and under aceleration no matter how tall they are. (with-in reason) I do stand in the ruff stuff. I totally agree with you on the limitations of the skid. "no action suspention"
Since I have your attention, I am getting ski lift in the corners when riding aggresivly. I can take care of most of it by hanging off the sled, but was wondering if I can get it to handle flatter in the corners ? Would you recommend reducing the upper gap a little ?
FYI:If possible I don't want to loose any straight line aceleration traction, otherwise I will just live with the ski lift.
Thanks a ton on your input, my sled now rides better than it did new !!!!
WedigSRX
Member
Would not having studs in the outer belt contribute to ski lift ?
Thanks again
Thanks again
WedigSRX said:
IMO - If anything, it would help to reduce ski lift.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Have you considered tightening up the straps to decrease steering effort?
WedigSRX
Member
Tighening the limiter straps would add ski pressure. I think Betheviper is on to something with the shims under the rubber pad on the ski. I have never had heavy steering on this unit. Not a huge issue for me, the fact that it spit out the rubber bump stops worries me. I will call Burgstrom today and see if he retracts the recomendation of adding them.
Thanks
Thanks
you will want to look at the front of the rubber in the ski. If it has a large S on it, you usually dont need shims unless you long travel with the stock front arms.
Im not sure what is up with the bumpers falling off your rails. I have junked near 100 sleds and never seen a missing bumper but have had some hit so hard, the rail bent as well as the back of the tunnel
Im not sure what is up with the bumpers falling off your rails. I have junked near 100 sleds and never seen a missing bumper but have had some hit so hard, the rail bent as well as the back of the tunnel
Tighening the limiter straps would add ski pressure.
Not true. Complete opposite. Try it. I have 26 mm of thread showing.
Not true. Complete opposite. Try it. I have 26 mm of thread showing.
WedigSRX
Member
Thanks guys.
I have busted my W arm a bunch of times and have went threw a few sets of rubber bumpers in the last 10,000 miles. With previous suspention set-ups they would usally show signs of getting beat up before I would loose them . I recently purchased a good used W arm and put in a gusset kit to beef it up so things are pretty square.
Betheviper: I know you are against putting preload in the middle shock but I think long term I might have to. I am going to run it this weekend the way it is with new bumbers. I do not anticipate ruff trails and it will be fine.
I just talk with Bergstrom and Scott concers with you, take the shim out from the rubber pad under the spindle. That should cure my heavy steering issue.
I have busted my W arm a bunch of times and have went threw a few sets of rubber bumpers in the last 10,000 miles. With previous suspention set-ups they would usally show signs of getting beat up before I would loose them . I recently purchased a good used W arm and put in a gusset kit to beef it up so things are pretty square.
Betheviper: I know you are against putting preload in the middle shock but I think long term I might have to. I am going to run it this weekend the way it is with new bumbers. I do not anticipate ruff trails and it will be fine.
I just talk with Bergstrom and Scott concers with you, take the shim out from the rubber pad under the spindle. That should cure my heavy steering issue.
Im not sure how you came to this conclusion. Your suspension has three points of contact pressureSRX_700 said:
1) Under your ski spindle
2) A point near the front of your rails(generally under the front arm rail mount)
3) A point near the rear of you rails
When you tighten the limiter straps, they lift the front of your rails which will add pressure to the other two points(which includes the ski spindle) adding more ski pressure