Gerryjackman
New member
So From what I've read and already been told I'm going to update the approach angle in my sled and put a 144" on that I have on my parts sled, right now I have a 141" track 136" rails that have been extended, the tunnel on there looks to be for a 141" as it is not extended, I have a parts sled with what could be a 144" skid and new track off of a mountain viper, I'm unsure of these parts and just taking a guess, I'm going to go through mix and patch whatever parts are the best from the two skids and make one good set up for my sled
I have not done much work on skids on snowmobiles but I want to give it a shot, I would also like to throw a big two wheel kit on if I can find one for the right price if not I may just make my own wit what I have already. I ride exclusively in the mountains so its always deep snow, I would like to set the suspension and skid up for this type of riding but I really have no idea how to do that without help!
I guess the first thing to do would be figure out where new skid is going to mount, whatever measurements and pics needed ill throw up as I go, I will upload some good ones of everything I'm dealing with soon
Snowdad4 I appreciate all the help so far, I may only be looking at one more trip in the sled this year and i can't go for at least a month so I figure ill give this a shot in the meantime, that's also pending it stops raining down that way so I could possibly be done riding for the year, the parts sled is taking up room in my garage so I want to strip it of everything that's worth and get rid of it before spring
Thanks alot guys
I have not done much work on skids on snowmobiles but I want to give it a shot, I would also like to throw a big two wheel kit on if I can find one for the right price if not I may just make my own wit what I have already. I ride exclusively in the mountains so its always deep snow, I would like to set the suspension and skid up for this type of riding but I really have no idea how to do that without help!
I guess the first thing to do would be figure out where new skid is going to mount, whatever measurements and pics needed ill throw up as I go, I will upload some good ones of everything I'm dealing with soon
Snowdad4 I appreciate all the help so far, I may only be looking at one more trip in the sled this year and i can't go for at least a month so I figure ill give this a shot in the meantime, that's also pending it stops raining down that way so I could possibly be done riding for the year, the parts sled is taking up room in my garage so I want to strip it of everything that's worth and get rid of it before spring
Thanks alot guys
all your answers and dimensions are attached to the parts sled.
using the drive shaft as your fixed point of measuring off the parts sled, duplicate those numbers to your sled. the drop and roll wont come to play as the dimensions need to reference the drive shaft. since your d&r is already set back, you still need to use that as your reference point. hope that makes sense. think about it and you should see the light.
you will need to duplicate the center and rear mounts as well. i usually template these based on the front arm holes to maintain the proper arc if your letting the skid out a bit. easy for you as you have the correct setup sitting there.
using the drive shaft as your fixed point of measuring off the parts sled, duplicate those numbers to your sled. the drop and roll wont come to play as the dimensions need to reference the drive shaft. since your d&r is already set back, you still need to use that as your reference point. hope that makes sense. think about it and you should see the light.
you will need to duplicate the center and rear mounts as well. i usually template these based on the front arm holes to maintain the proper arc if your letting the skid out a bit. easy for you as you have the correct setup sitting there.
Gerryjackman
New member
Ok I think I understand that only thing I don't get is when you said letting the skid out more?
What do I use to measure off of as I go back u mentioned a template? And as far as the rear mount bolts I need to fab brackets and mount them I'm assuming?
What do I use to measure off of as I go back u mentioned a template? And as far as the rear mount bolts I need to fab brackets and mount them I'm assuming?
doesnt your aftermarket tunnel have drop plates with several available holes? mine from 2000 did. you have drop brackets available on the parts sled, from what i saw in the pics.
by "letting out", you have the option of lowering the mount holes when your setting up for your new skid. for instance, you can raise your footboard height off the snow by drilling your mount holes lower(closer to the footboards and futher from the top of the tunnel). this must be done incrementally and in an arc as you measurements will differ lower or higher.
make your own template, anything thin and ridgid. carboard, aluminum, etc. with the dimensions plotted on your homemade template, secure the template with a bolt to the front mount hole. pivot the template off the bolt and mark curves inside the tunnel with a sharpy pen. anywhere along this curve or arc is a suitable point to drill for the mount hole for center and rear mounts to keep the skids geometry correct.
not counting the front mount, the mtn maxes and mtn vipers have provisional holes at the center and rear about 5/8" lower at center and 7/8 at the rear to let the skid out. polaris and arctic cat also have provisional holes for the front mount. its a game you can play with your sled to find the sweet spot.
by "letting out", you have the option of lowering the mount holes when your setting up for your new skid. for instance, you can raise your footboard height off the snow by drilling your mount holes lower(closer to the footboards and futher from the top of the tunnel). this must be done incrementally and in an arc as you measurements will differ lower or higher.
make your own template, anything thin and ridgid. carboard, aluminum, etc. with the dimensions plotted on your homemade template, secure the template with a bolt to the front mount hole. pivot the template off the bolt and mark curves inside the tunnel with a sharpy pen. anywhere along this curve or arc is a suitable point to drill for the mount hole for center and rear mounts to keep the skids geometry correct.
not counting the front mount, the mtn maxes and mtn vipers have provisional holes at the center and rear about 5/8" lower at center and 7/8 at the rear to let the skid out. polaris and arctic cat also have provisional holes for the front mount. its a game you can play with your sled to find the sweet spot.
Gerryjackman
New member
I don't think it has provisional holes I took a good look and don't see another option without drilling new holes by letting the skid out does that changes the approach angle at all ? When you say a template that has an arc how do I obtain that srx in the First place I'm assuming of the parts sled but I just can't picture how to do it.
make your own holes as an option to play with. i have found the srx's to be nose heavy and every little bit helps getting the sled to ride on the skid vs riding on the skis, so to speak.
you have to make your own template. using the parts sled, you need something about 3' long thats fairly rigid. drill a hole the same size as your mount holes(somewhere around 25/64 or 13/32, i dont have the metric size) in your template along with a bolt and nut to match. simply bolt your template through the existing front mount hole in the parts sled and use it to mark the locations of the other two sets of holes.
now that you have this template marked, using a smaller drill bit like around 1/8", drill your template where you marked your other holes. now, once you have duplicated the front mount holes into your existing tunnel, rebolt you template to these holes and scribe(or sharpy pen) lines inside the tunnel. your lines should appear as a mild arc if you mark from the top of the tunnel down to the footboards. anywhere along these arc lines are suitable locations to drill to keep your geometry symmetrical.
in your case, i would start by duplicating the measures from the inside top of the tunnel down off the parts sled and layout for provisional holes for future reference. those drop brackets on the donor sled should work for you if you ekholm tunnel doesnt have the larger swiss cheese drops.
get in there and play before making holes and things should make sense. you wont change the approach angle by letting the skid out, your essentially changing the balance of the machine along with adding some tunnel clearance for the track and increasing the distance from the footboards to the snow. fine line there between right and overdone.
you have to make your own template. using the parts sled, you need something about 3' long thats fairly rigid. drill a hole the same size as your mount holes(somewhere around 25/64 or 13/32, i dont have the metric size) in your template along with a bolt and nut to match. simply bolt your template through the existing front mount hole in the parts sled and use it to mark the locations of the other two sets of holes.
now that you have this template marked, using a smaller drill bit like around 1/8", drill your template where you marked your other holes. now, once you have duplicated the front mount holes into your existing tunnel, rebolt you template to these holes and scribe(or sharpy pen) lines inside the tunnel. your lines should appear as a mild arc if you mark from the top of the tunnel down to the footboards. anywhere along these arc lines are suitable locations to drill to keep your geometry symmetrical.
in your case, i would start by duplicating the measures from the inside top of the tunnel down off the parts sled and layout for provisional holes for future reference. those drop brackets on the donor sled should work for you if you ekholm tunnel doesnt have the larger swiss cheese drops.
get in there and play before making holes and things should make sense. you wont change the approach angle by letting the skid out, your essentially changing the balance of the machine along with adding some tunnel clearance for the track and increasing the distance from the footboards to the snow. fine line there between right and overdone.