Loose trailing arm mount rivets on 97' xt

[brade07]

I know this is an issue on these sleds, it was fine last season. But I rode it pretty hard on tight trails this year and I now have about 1/8" of play. My question is instead of replacing with rivets (which I hate dealing with) can I use stainless steel bolts with lock nuts instead??

I dont see an issue as long as their checked periodically to make sure their tight, They should be stronger than rivets IMHO

 

[Maim]

should be fine.

 

[Backwoods M Max]

Use plain steel with a never seize compound instead. Something like that should have a grade 5 or 8 bolt anyways. Stainless has a low tensile strength. As well you are setting up the potential for severe corrosion. Stainless in aluminum is bad news. Add some road spray and factor in that the chassis is grounded into the electrical system and you have a recipie for corrosion.

 

[yami1]

Thats what i did on my sx. used 1/4 in buttonhead bolts with locktight and locknuts. No issues at all.

 

[horkn]

I need to drill out the rivets on mind in this area on the left side on my 97 venture as I noticed the same slop on my yami just this year. That and I need a new, or a clean rust free lh trailing arm. Mine is rusted through.

I will be thoroughly going through the old girl this summer/ fall. Comp and leak down test, reed replacing/ mod, stator cleaned, thorough bearing and wheel check out, and maybe some fresh paint on the trailing arms, and under hood items.

 

[brade07]

Ok thanks for the replies, I may just do both sides this summer to save a headache next winter. Backwoods thanks for the heads up, I forgot about the corrosion factor, my tunnel is coated with rhino liner so I will just coat the bolts with it after the install to keep the bolts from rusting. And I plan on using grade 8 bolts as long as I can find them that small, if not 5 should do the trick.

I also spray down most of the underside of the sled with rust check spray every spring since I store it outside.