I dont have too much planned for the sled this summer, but im sure i can find something. 
First, 8 tooth drivers, then studs, rear cooler, go through skid, and maybe rebuild all 4 shocks.
I have Mrvipers HC 48/34 setup in it and his trail port as well. When I go to the 8 tooth drivers, what can I expect in changes? Decrease in top end a little I'd imagine. Are there any changes I can make to my setup to offset the driver change?
First, 8 tooth drivers, then studs, rear cooler, go through skid, and maybe rebuild all 4 shocks.
I have Mrvipers HC 48/34 setup in it and his trail port as well. When I go to the 8 tooth drivers, what can I expect in changes? Decrease in top end a little I'd imagine. Are there any changes I can make to my setup to offset the driver change?
Vt Srx
New member
You may need to gear up, but you may be ok with your 136. Try it first. Some guys don't like 8 tooth drivers because of the steeper angle but its pretty nice to have all that extra room when you put your skid in and out. Plus you don't have to run your track banjo string tight.
Im doing it strickly so I can stud my 1.25 ripsaw. It needs it pretty bad with the HC and the trail port.
oh..yuck, 8 tooth drivers will take off alot of speed everywhere, i surely would not go to a 8 tooth from a 9 tooth just for studs, your better off to trim the lugs of the current track to 1 inch and run studs on it with the 9 tooth drivers.
The tighter you bend the track the more parasetic drag will occur from bending the track in a tighter radius. It also screws up the speedo calibration. ruins your chaincase gearing as well.....
other thing is to just trim the inside belt lugs to 1 inch install studs in the center belt only like a 144 pattern and leave the outside belts at 1.25 lug and no studs in outside belts.
The tighter you bend the track the more parasetic drag will occur from bending the track in a tighter radius. It also screws up the speedo calibration. ruins your chaincase gearing as well.....
other thing is to just trim the inside belt lugs to 1 inch install studs in the center belt only like a 144 pattern and leave the outside belts at 1.25 lug and no studs in outside belts.
srx rear heat exchanger is what you need to install for summertime project.
stealther27
Member
Does anyone know why it is that theses sleds are such a pain it seems when it comes to having not enough room at all to install a taller lug track? I was thinking of doing the 8 tooth drivers and 1.25 track before I settled on my 1inch kimpex ultimate traxtion and Im glad I waited cause I didn't know that 8 tooth drivers take off that much speed! 
sorry jd didn't mean to hijack your thread
sorry jd didn't mean to hijack your thread
I'd love to know too...
SeX Viper
Member
I don't know why the clearance is so bad on the Viper but do know it is frustrating. I went to a 1.25 ripsaw with Woody's studs. The first mistake I made was up sizing 1 from their recommendation; it hooks up like crazy but is a bit too long for proper clearance. I wouldn't shy away from studding a 1.25 ripsaw but would follow this advice from my experience. First, use the recommended length stud from Woody’s. Second, replace your tunnel protectors as the plastic ones wear down which leads to your studs slowly eating away your tunnel because the track will slack up every time you hit the brakes. Second, and I know people are going to comment on this, run your track at the factory recommended tension, this will prevent the slacking when you hit the brakes. If you do these things you may get some scratches in the fins of your front cooler but they won't be anywhere close to putting a hole in the cooler. The other option is to go with the Bergstrom Trail Grabbers. I don't know anyone who has them but am considering it for my next sled. They are not as affective if you are drag racing but I think for most people they would get the job done 90% of the time. If you want more info on studding your track feel free to PM me as I have invested too many hours fixing my mistakes, I guess that is how we learn though.
Yamablue
Member
I have 500 or so of the Bergstrom screws that I'd give you a good deal on. They did help, but I run on the river too much and the exposed ice curves are stud only territory and they still slide. The screws were fine for the trails.
super1c
Super Moderator
JDViper said:I'd love to know too...
Jd have you looked into the ice ripper? It was on my list of tracks when i made my choice. It came highly recommended and the studs seem to last as well. Just a though, kinda best of both worlds. chris http://www.camoplastsolideal.com/snowmobile/products/trail
stealther27 said:Does anyone know why it is that theses sleds are such a pain it seems when it comes to having not enough room at all to install a taller lug track? I was thinking of doing the 8 tooth drivers and 1.25 track before I settled on my 1inch kimpex ultimate traxtion and Im glad I waited cause I didn't know that 8 tooth drivers take off that much speed!
its not just a viper but a srx and sxr as well any of the pro action chassis sleds have little clearance to add a 1.25 track plus studs sticking out over that another 3/8" with the stock 9 tooth drivers. You can run a studded 1.25 with the 9 tooth drivers but you need to keep the track tension more tight then a loose flapping track. Its not so much of a problem under the tunnel as it is right under the gastank area where the track balloons out on higher speeds before its pulled down on the drivers. If you keep the track tighter and keep an eye on it, you can do it no problem. You just dont use a stud with much more then like 1/4-3/8" above the lug heigth.
you also can run a bigger unstudded lug track like 1.50" and it will still fit with 9 tooth drivers. I actually have used a 1.75" lug and although it was tight getting it in there worked good in a srx.
The 1.75" didnt work good in a 600sx i did as it seemed to pack the tunnel with wet heavy snow if you were not on the gas enough, would lock it up till you dug the snow out. Trimmed the track down to 1.5" lug and never had another issue again,end of problem. I think it was just too close and the snow could not escape and the engine didnt have enough power to keep it open.
Ok. This is why I love this site...
Revisions: Still looking for a 1" track. Id love to do the ics ripper but they are a little expensive for me at this point. But by the time you buy a new track ans stud it you might as well get one. IDK yet. Still doing the rear cooler (that wont change). Still going to go through the rear skid. Thanks for the info guys. Stay tuned.
Revisions: Still looking for a 1" track. Id love to do the ics ripper but they are a little expensive for me at this point. But by the time you buy a new track ans stud it you might as well get one. IDK yet. Still doing the rear cooler (that wont change). Still going to go through the rear skid. Thanks for the info guys. Stay tuned.
SeX Viper
Member
I agree with you that the rear cooler is a must even if your sled is stock. I bought the kit from Hauck and they told me they do not have any problems with studs hitting and cooler protectors are not needed. Well mine hit the first time out but luckily didn't do any major damage. I made a couple of different protectors myself because I couldn't find the SRX ones. The first try was gone after one ride and I had better luck on the second run. I could post a pick if someone was interesrted. I did find a set of aftermarket SRX rear heat exchanger protetors on ebay this year and put them on too for extra insurance, I would say if you can find them it is easier and better then the home made route.
s10mike
Member
my bro. put 8 tooth drivers on his srx, says it was a mistake. he thinks it slowed him down some on top.
Vt Srx
New member
Everything is a trade off. You can run 9 tooth drivers and burn through sliders because you are running your 1.25 so tight or wait for that one track ripple to come around and clean out your front exchanger and leave you stranded. I would rather have some safety clearance with studs, run the 8 tooth, gear up, and don't sweat the 5 mph you lost from the approach angle. I don't lake run, we have tight twisty trails so your mileage may vary.
im looking for a 1" 136 or 144 to run and sell my 136 ripsaw... a 1" hacksaw would be nice. that way i can keep the 9t drivers and still have studs.
Agpetro
Member
JDViper said:
You can run 1.325in studs in a 1.25in ripsaw and be fine. My dad and I have been running his 02 vmax and my 03 viper with them for the last 3 years and still no problem doing so. Both running stock 9 tooth drivers. I got a 144 1.25in ripsaw going under my sled this summer and its going to get studded. Btw if you change your mind and go with a 1.25in 144 ripsaw let me know. I can tell you a place that has one heck of a deal on them.