Backwoods M Max
New member
I got a chance to unwrap my basically mint 151" challenger that came in the mail today. After looking it over its sweet, there is still rubber on the mold release lines and everything. There is one outer lug that the inside edge is torn about 3/4" in from the edge at the base. It's not even torn all the way through yet but I'm wondering what I should do. Should I try and glue the seem together with some high strength cyanoacrylate? Should I try and cut it off where the tear ends so it doesn't tear further? I'm worried that if it continues to tear it could travel down into the track clip area and lead to a track failure. This track is mint and was a good deal but I would hate to not get the full life out of it because of this.
deeppowder
Member
I've had the same track on my Mountain Max for quite a few years, and when a lug starts to tear I cut it off just past where the tear ends. I have done this to 8-10 lugs so far and they haven't gotten any worse. This is the simplest fix as I haven't found anything that will glue a track. Tried a few different glues but after one trip to the mountains it's torn again.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Use to work for a MAJOR tire manufacture. We got torn lugs on rear farm tires on a daily basis on the cure line. Used high strength SG to re-adhear the torn part of lug. It'll work fine in your case. I would request some money back from seller though.
ebayfreak
Member
anybody ever try 3m windshield urethane. got a couple lugs on my track that are ripped, going to try that stuff. it's wicked tough when it sets up
Backwoods M Max
New member
With this track I think cutting it off to prevent any further damage, and seeing how the rest of the track is brand new I'm not so worried about losing 3/4" of one track lug. With the track loose on my floor I think it's the best opportunity to make a good repair. I can drill a 3/16" hole down the length of the corner of the crack then cut the end of the paddle off into the hole. The radius of the hole will reduce stress and hopefully prevent any further tearing. I think this is a priority to not let my e-bay prize get destroyed by having the lug come clean off and tear into a track clip and have the track come apart. Last thing I want to do is end up having to drag a sled out of the woods with a broken track, that is something I never want to experience.
Backwoods M Max
New member
I found a post on hardcore sledder that some people have used a product called E-6000 black adhesive. They have said that it works with good success but takes around 3 days to get the complete cure and needs between 70-85 degree temperatures. I think I will give that a try first, and then if the tear starts again to separate again I'll cut the lug back. I will wait till there are favorable conditions to make an attempt at gluing it this summer. If anyone else decides to try it out before me let us know how the results were.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Try useing a heating pad to maintain a constant cursing temperature.Backwoods M Max said:I found a post on hardcore sledder that some people have used a product called E-6000 black adhesive. They have said that it works with good success but takes around 3 days to get the complete cure and needs between 70-85 degree temperatures. I think I will give that a try first, and then if the tear starts again to separate again I'll cut the lug back. I will wait till there are favorable conditions to make an attempt at gluing it this summer. If anyone else decides to try it out before me let us know how the results were.
Backwoods M Max
New member
I ended up cutting the lug off to it's base, and then where the tear traveled down towards the track cross bar I am attempting to bond just that part back together. I used 3M 5200 which is a marine adhesive silicone. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...QFgs_XQ8KGSJX81_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv)&rt=d It has excellent bond properties and when you allow it to cure properly, is inseparable. I have tried to remove fittings on boats sealed with 5200 and torn away fiberglass. I've got the track clamped right now with a piece of plastic on the surface to keep the block of wood from sticking, and I can forget about it for a few weeks. When I come back to it everything should be cured and ready to go.