I have a set of Mountain Performance trailing arms on my sled now and they are done for. One is bent and the other now broke in half in the part that houses the spindle. Pretty crazy where it broke. I am going to weld - rig it to get through the rest of spring riding.
Wondering what Aftermarket options are out there that is recomended. Some thing light. I know light means weaker than stock.
The ones from MP were on the weak side. Would like to have some thing that can take the occasional stump jump etc. I tend to bounce off of plenty of trees.
Maybe going stock is the best option. Was just looking for others opinions.
Thanks in advance!
Wondering what Aftermarket options are out there that is recomended. Some thing light. I know light means weaker than stock.
The ones from MP were on the weak side. Would like to have some thing that can take the occasional stump jump etc. I tend to bounce off of plenty of trees.
Maybe going stock is the best option. Was just looking for others opinions.
Thanks in advance!
I will buy those old ones from u when u r done need them for parts. Thanks Pete.
I have a set of viper arms from a flatlander sled if interested.
ViperXC
New member
Check out Fabcraft's website and see what you think.
The Northern Lites arms were much stronger then stock and IMO the best option. I put on over 8K miles on a set after bending 5+ stock ones. A good part of that riding was likely bouncing off the same stumps that you do in the Munising area.
The builder (Dennis Kegel of Columbia Falls, Montana) made the arms for the Yamaha Snow Cross teams as well as non-race models. The non-race arms work very well with the stock shock and steering setup and are significantly lighter then stock. The race models require some steering and shock change to avoid bump steer. There are some old posts on here that discuss this in more detail. There is even a post that includes some info on the factory Snow Cross setup.
Unfortunately Dennis left a bunch of people hanging (including myself) without delivering product. So trying to get him to make some is not likely a good idea. His work was top-notch and the products were great up until the latter years when it really fell off. I do have some of both the trail and the race arms that if someone wanted to, they could copy and make their own set. I think he used Chrome-Moly tubing, where the stock arms are a lower grade of steel.
Another option is the CB Performance aluminum arms that some on here have run. I don't have any experience with them so will let others chime in.
The builder (Dennis Kegel of Columbia Falls, Montana) made the arms for the Yamaha Snow Cross teams as well as non-race models. The non-race arms work very well with the stock shock and steering setup and are significantly lighter then stock. The race models require some steering and shock change to avoid bump steer. There are some old posts on here that discuss this in more detail. There is even a post that includes some info on the factory Snow Cross setup.
Unfortunately Dennis left a bunch of people hanging (including myself) without delivering product. So trying to get him to make some is not likely a good idea. His work was top-notch and the products were great up until the latter years when it really fell off. I do have some of both the trail and the race arms that if someone wanted to, they could copy and make their own set. I think he used Chrome-Moly tubing, where the stock arms are a lower grade of steel.
Another option is the CB Performance aluminum arms that some on here have run. I don't have any experience with them so will let others chime in.
Try Fabcraft
They are light, well made. They still make them! And you can get replacement tubes and heads seperatly. I had to replace a shaft, because I hit a rock and sheared a tube.
They are light, well made. They still make them! And you can get replacement tubes and heads seperatly. I had to replace a shaft, because I hit a rock and sheared a tube.
Backwoods M Max
New member
ViperXC said:
Thinking about a set myself. I scored a set of viper spindles and steering arms on eBay so I'm ready for a set of fabcraft viper arms.
Thanks for the info guys. The Fabcraft look a lot like the Mountain PErformance ones I currently have.
MP will no longer sell repair parts for the arms! Pisses me off. I know it is older stuff but come on. I wonder if the Fabcraft tubes will fit in the Mountain Performance heads?
Does Fabcraft guarantee that you will be able to get replace ment parts? I hate to spend another 500$+ on some thing disposable.
MP will no longer sell repair parts for the arms! Pisses me off. I know it is older stuff but come on. I wonder if the Fabcraft tubes will fit in the Mountain Performance heads?
Does Fabcraft guarantee that you will be able to get replace ment parts? I hate to spend another 500$+ on some thing disposable.
Backwoods M Max
New member
Check with Hartman, I believe he sells the mp arms, or fabcraft arms but might be someone else worth talking to.
2ooosrx
VIP Member
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We still make them, I still think we are the only one that heat treat the Alum.
Bruce
Bruce
not to step on bruces' toes, but if you want to try and salvage those pos mpi arms, heres what i have done.
i used the "chassis shop" as a supplier for some 4130 chromoly tubing. od size slips me at this point, 1 1/8 x .065? you can play with the wall thicknesses to suit your weight and strength needs, but you cant alter the od. i can dig a bit deeper if needed, you can measure as well i can. you need a about a 3' tube per arm replacement. from there i used some "pro-werks" tube adaptors. 5/8-18 rh thread, part # C73-924-2.
i have gone two ways with the attachment of the tube adaptors. quick change way is to drill and tap and run a stainless set screw (2 per tube). set fix is to weld it. i prefer the set screw with anti-seize but to each their own.
trick to fitment on the tubes is to match the cope on the end to fit the heads. look at you original mpi tube as a pattern for the cope. i did some with a die grinder and some on the drill press. be sure and use lots of anti-seize when inserting the tubes into the heads.
save yourself some shipping and buy 4 pcs of the tubing pre-cut to 3' lengths. no cut charge with the chassis shop. i havent had to use the spares yet, but they are on hand if needed. the tubes i bought are alot better quality steel than mpi had that you had to pay extra for over the aluminum tubes.
on the next go round i would probably turn the od down on a lathe (working on that number soon), but it wouldnt take but a few thousandths for easier removal from the heads.
quiz me if you need more info on this. i have 4 tubes at my machinist buddies shop awaiting the lathe.
i used the "chassis shop" as a supplier for some 4130 chromoly tubing. od size slips me at this point, 1 1/8 x .065? you can play with the wall thicknesses to suit your weight and strength needs, but you cant alter the od. i can dig a bit deeper if needed, you can measure as well i can. you need a about a 3' tube per arm replacement. from there i used some "pro-werks" tube adaptors. 5/8-18 rh thread, part # C73-924-2.
i have gone two ways with the attachment of the tube adaptors. quick change way is to drill and tap and run a stainless set screw (2 per tube). set fix is to weld it. i prefer the set screw with anti-seize but to each their own.
trick to fitment on the tubes is to match the cope on the end to fit the heads. look at you original mpi tube as a pattern for the cope. i did some with a die grinder and some on the drill press. be sure and use lots of anti-seize when inserting the tubes into the heads.
save yourself some shipping and buy 4 pcs of the tubing pre-cut to 3' lengths. no cut charge with the chassis shop. i havent had to use the spares yet, but they are on hand if needed. the tubes i bought are alot better quality steel than mpi had that you had to pay extra for over the aluminum tubes.
on the next go round i would probably turn the od down on a lathe (working on that number soon), but it wouldnt take but a few thousandths for easier removal from the heads.
quiz me if you need more info on this. i have 4 tubes at my machinist buddies shop awaiting the lathe.
thanks snowdad4. Great info. I am going to see if its worth repairing. My right one the tube in bent. The left one the spindle housing has broke in half. If I can weld that up nice, it might be worth fixing to have around as a backup.
Can any one get behind the CB arms? They look like they are made to be a lot stronger. Are they so strong that I will damage the tunnel mount point rather than the arm bending?
Can any one get behind the CB arms? They look like they are made to be a lot stronger. Are they so strong that I will damage the tunnel mount point rather than the arm bending?