vipkat
New member
Hi TY Forum, Looking for some mechanical advise again,
The bearing on my drive shaft behind the speedo housing appears to be shot. Noise was coming from that area so I pulled of the cluch and then the speedo housing and it was jammed with rust. So I ordered an all balls replacement. I removed the chain case on the other side, loosened the track, and removed the allen / torx set skrews on the housing and the hosing now spins freely on the end of the drive shaft but WILL NOT COME OFF!!!! The bearing housing is also rivited into the tunnel so i CANNOT figure out how to remove the entire drive shaft either, although id rater keep it in place and swap the bearing. There appears to be a lip on the end of the shaft keeping the bearing housing in place. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG HERE?
Any advice would be appreciated.
The bearing on my drive shaft behind the speedo housing appears to be shot. Noise was coming from that area so I pulled of the cluch and then the speedo housing and it was jammed with rust. So I ordered an all balls replacement. I removed the chain case on the other side, loosened the track, and removed the allen / torx set skrews on the housing and the hosing now spins freely on the end of the drive shaft but WILL NOT COME OFF!!!! The bearing housing is also rivited into the tunnel so i CANNOT figure out how to remove the entire drive shaft either, although id rater keep it in place and swap the bearing. There appears to be a lip on the end of the shaft keeping the bearing housing in place. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG HERE?
Any advice would be appreciated.
bluewho
Active member
You should realy drop the skid out and it will give you room to work.I cut them off with a torch or grinder or a puller they are a bugger.
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vipkat
New member
but how will be able to pull the drive shaft out? the bearing support housing (not sure thats what its called) is riveted in place , thanks for the advise
super1c
Super Moderator
You should not have to remove anything to get that bearing off. But it sounds as if yours is rusted. Soak it really well with some pb or wd40 and pry it from back side. The bearing has to come off for the drive shaft for the shaft to come out unless you drill out the rivets on the bearing retainer but I save that as a last option. The bearing when free will simply slide off toward belly pan. If really stuck try a 3 jaw puller, or some guys have had to cut off. A option seeing your replacing anyway. Start with soaking and go from there. Maybe a little heat at the bearing race, just be car full not to melt anything
super1c
Super Moderator
If the bearing is loose but not coming off try some super fine grit sand paper and clean the end of the drive shaft. Maybe just hanging up on rust.
vipkat
New member
OK will try that but the collar (that bolts the drive shaft via the 2 torx) that supports the bearing, rotates around the shaft just fine and can be moved around easily but will not come off the end of the shaft. Hopefully the sandpaper will help thanks.
Did that collar spin on the driveshaft even before you loosened the set screws? If so, it may have worn a groove/lip in the driveshaft that is preventing the bearing from sliding off the shaft. If this is the case, sanding may take awhile depending on how deep the groove is, you can also try grinding or filing.
You can also try to tap the bearing off from the backside with a punch & hammer, you likely have very good access if you only have 2 track drivers. Be wary of hitting it too hard, although it sounds like you have the chaincase off, so those components won't be damaged, just try not to move the drivers on the shaft, else move them back.
You can also try to tap the bearing off from the backside with a punch & hammer, you likely have very good access if you only have 2 track drivers. Be wary of hitting it too hard, although it sounds like you have the chaincase off, so those components won't be damaged, just try not to move the drivers on the shaft, else move them back.
Hath91
New member
I'm currently in the same position with my 2001 SX-R 700. I have the set screws out, but in my case the backing collar won't spin. I tried latching onto the backing collar with the largest set of channel locks to free it up and it just won't break free. I've been spraying with PB for 2 days now; just wondering how must soaking I need to do.
yamahamark
Member
If it's stuck that tight use a bearing puller. Works great...
I've had to torch em off b4 .they can be a pain sometimes!
Hath91
New member
I was able to easily remove the bearing and backing collar all at once with a small 3 jaw puller, rented from Advance auto parts.
super1c
Super Moderator
Good job. Now clean that shaft really well and use some very fine grit wet sand paper to clean it up and you will never have that problem again.
Hath91
New member
Does anyone have the relief measurements (Yamaha specs) for how much the drive shaft should stick out from the bearing on the speedo/clutch side? I believe it was about .25" but want to confrim.
Thanks in advance.
-Hath91
Thanks in advance.
-Hath91
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I was just thinking about this post because of a problem with a bearing.
I was in the process of replacing the auger bearings on the tractor mounted snowblower. The bearings are a 205-16 eccentric. So I loosened the set screw, backed off the collar a 1/4 turn to line up the eccentric portion of both the collar & bearing. The bearing should just slide right off at that point. Heck no. Ended up putting a bearing puller on it and muscling it off. PITA. A bit of Anti-Sieze at installation goes a long way. Although, they were OE factory bearings and its a 30 y/o blower.