YooperMike
New member
Will a viper or SRX recoil bolt up to my MM? Looks like part numbers are similar, just different letters at the beginning of the part ID. Don't NEED a new one, but mine is currently toast. Thought about getting a used one and rebuilding mine for a spare.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
From what I've seen of them I'd say no. I think the bolt holes line up differently. I've been looking for a used recoil as well and the pictures I've seen on Ebay, they look different.
YooperMike
New member
I was graciously told by BETHEVIPER that only the SX triple recoil will work for me, you are corret sleddineiar. I took mine apart last night, the wound spring is broke on the very end where it catches on the recoil housing. The little hooked end snapped off, so I'm going to TRY to bend a new end on it and see if it works. Worst case scenario, I need to buy a new spring, and will probably replace the rope. First time I've had it apart in 6800 miles. I've got to say, that spring is a real mother trucker. Any suggestions, or tips, on how to easily get it back in place?
YooperMike
New member
So, I bent a new end on the pawl spring, got it rewound in the casing without any swearing or bloody fingers, but now I have a couple of questions. First is with the cam guide (#10 in diagram), what orientation does it go in? I couldn't tell when I took it apart. Do the tabbed ends go in facing away from the drive dawg? Does it matter? Next question is on the thrust washer (#11 in diagram), when I took mine apart it was under the spring, however the diagram shows it going on top under the drive plate (#8 in diagram). Where should I put it? And last, how much torque do I put on the flange nut? Thanks for any info.
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YooperMike
New member
I put it back together the way it came apart with the washer. The cam guide, I put in with the tabs facing away from the drive dawg. Put blue loctite on the flange nut and the four bolts and reinstalled. Seems to be working. Some items I learned:
1.) The easiest way, for me, to get the spring back in was to start at the end where it hooks onto the recoil housing. Then slowly push it back into place, following the spring around, moving it in a few inches at a time. Took about 2 minutes to do. I tried winding it together and zip-tying it, but gave up on that after a few tries.
2.) Rewinding the rope in the notch seemed stupid to me, so I just wrapped it around 4 or 5 times and put it in and pulled the rope thru the hole, leaving about 12-14" hanging out of the recoil housing. Probably got lucky on that one, it worked the first time without having to take off and do again. Sucked back up with no slack in the rope.
1.) The easiest way, for me, to get the spring back in was to start at the end where it hooks onto the recoil housing. Then slowly push it back into place, following the spring around, moving it in a few inches at a time. Took about 2 minutes to do. I tried winding it together and zip-tying it, but gave up on that after a few tries.
2.) Rewinding the rope in the notch seemed stupid to me, so I just wrapped it around 4 or 5 times and put it in and pulled the rope thru the hole, leaving about 12-14" hanging out of the recoil housing. Probably got lucky on that one, it worked the first time without having to take off and do again. Sucked back up with no slack in the rope.