wow, thats bad but it could be repaired. Youd need to cut out the bad section then use that peice as a template to make a new repair section. I would also add a double plate to the bottom so it doesnt rub thru again. If you take it to a weld shop that can be tig welded right back in with not a whole lot of work.
thanks
thanks, great, knowledgeable,complete information as usual.
thanks, great, knowledgeable,complete information as usual.
before repairing, figure out the root cause. something isnt right with the install or with the bulkhead/steering parts.
i have seen a few bender pipes wear against certain parts of the bulkhead, but not to that extent. obviously it wasnt one of the other pipes, or you would have two bad pipes.
the "arc" shaped wear appears as though perhaps on of the ties rods has been making its mark? mental picture shows that area away from the pivot points, confusing. i thought that range of motion was more linear than curved bit never really paid close attention.
figure out why and what, then have it repaired.
i have seen a few bender pipes wear against certain parts of the bulkhead, but not to that extent. obviously it wasnt one of the other pipes, or you would have two bad pipes.
the "arc" shaped wear appears as though perhaps on of the ties rods has been making its mark? mental picture shows that area away from the pivot points, confusing. i thought that range of motion was more linear than curved bit never really paid close attention.
figure out why and what, then have it repaired.
I thought about that
I do not know why the shape is the way it is. Hood clearance? The pipe below it is fine. It seems odd that the top pipe alone would be so beaten and distorted, it had to be beating hard against the next pipe. More thought/ exploration is in order. It does not make sense.
I do not know why the shape is the way it is. Hood clearance? The pipe below it is fine. It seems odd that the top pipe alone would be so beaten and distorted, it had to be beating hard against the next pipe. More thought/ exploration is in order. It does not make sense.
jt specialties
New member
Truthfully, not uncommon. Normal rubbing, bouncing, twisting, you get the point. The fix is as said or somewhat. I've had that happen more than once. Bender, SLP. Where in Co. are you? If cutting out and tig is not feasible, just over plate after cleaning any twisted, warped, bent metal from hole.[ Die grinder, nice.] I've mig'd an over plate more than once. Use material as thin as possible to prevent blow-thru when welding though. Also put buffer metal on pipe below so it does not wear thru. As this will happen. And then very tight springs. But normal movement can not be helped.
Ok so I got the pipe welded
I have another mystery though. I will try and attach a bad photo. It is from the vents at knee level. What I verified is that the pipe never comes in contact with the hood. So the hood is not the problem. Is one of the slp springs strong enough to cause that damage? By putting that much tension? I looked at slp the next spring size is 2 3/4" I think that would just fall off. Any insights?
I have another mystery though. I will try and attach a bad photo. It is from the vents at knee level. What I verified is that the pipe never comes in contact with the hood. So the hood is not the problem. Is one of the slp springs strong enough to cause that damage? By putting that much tension? I looked at slp the next spring size is 2 3/4" I think that would just fall off. Any insights?
Attachments
jt specialties
New member
I'll get some pic's of my son's with slp's and post. Fixed those. All mountain riding. I'll take some of mine with bender's. Fixed those also.
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