Tall gearing for 500ft


I once geared down for a 500Ft hill climb, doesn't sound like very high but that is a 5 story building of slippery white stuff. Al
 
What I'm refering to is a gear ratio of lower number say like 1.44 1.56 not 1.90 or 2.0 as you suggested Tony
 
andy grass racing is about e.t. , getting there as quick as you can, not as fast as you can. even don will tell ya thats why there are different set-ups. give ya a example.
2000 srx 700
stock gear 23-38 @ 1.65
grass drag 20-40 @ 2.00
in 500 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better e.t.
in 2000 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better mph
3:16 (YAMMIE TONY)
 
I ve read some good post over at HCS in the XCR forum about gearing tall versus low and the outcome is about 50/50 on this I know it not a yamaha but gearing in general

these guys tried the tall gear and had a .5 better ET in 500-660ft drag than the low gear but they stated that traction has to be 100% plus the sled launch a hole lot harder
 
YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
andy grass racing is about e.t. , getting there as quick as you can, not as fast as you can. even don will tell ya thats why there are different set-ups. give ya a example.
2000 srx 700
stock gear 23-38 @ 1.65
grass drag 20-40 @ 2.00
in 500 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better e.t.
in 2000 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better mph
3:16 (YAMMIE TONY)
Do you have time to try 25/38 gears versus 20/40 in 500ft Tony and then post results PLEASE! ;)! I would but my sled is still in parts LOL! :2strokes:



I hope Don can chime on this as everyone else in drag racing these sleds

this topic can be very informative for everyone
 
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YAMMIEGOD3:16 said:
andy grass racing is about e.t. , getting there as quick as you can, not as fast as you can. even don will tell ya thats why there are different set-ups. give ya a example.
2000 srx 700
stock gear 23-38 @ 1.65
grass drag 20-40 @ 2.00
in 500 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better e.t.
in 2000 f.t. what sled gets there first ? has better mph
3:16 (YAMMIE TONY)

Tonys got it right, its ALL about et or lowest amount of time in a drag race,not the mph.
While true a taller gear loads the engine more, in such a short race of 500ft it would be quite a bit slower et wise. You can vary slightly in 500ft with larger top gear with good results but no where near stock 23/38 gears. Sometimes traction is a issue with the stud types and suspension set ups allowed for a class vs the starting line traction, so changing the top gear to 1 more will help get you some traction because its multiplying less torque to the track giving you better traction,but theres a limit.

In grass racing its all about the holeshot...period. If you lose 2-3 sleds out of the gate its very,very difficult to pass that sled in such a short distance, it actually will take alot more hp to do so,because the distance is very short.

20/40 is a good 500ft ratio, but youll not be able to vary far from about 21/39-21/40, and again those all depend on how good the sled is set up.

If you have good sharp chisel studs,good rear suspension set up,and clutching dialed in no reason not to put the max torq to the track with 20/40 and get to the finsh line quicker.
 
i was just gonna post , best thing for you to do is test. i myself never have geared real real low. i found 21-40 worked best for me. andy, also you have to keep in mind so many other factors about gearing. (clutch set-up) weights, your helix, your skid setup, weight of driver, surface your racing on. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
mrviper700 said:
Tonys got it right, its ALL about et or lowest amount of time in a drag race,not the mph.
While true a taller gear loads the engine more, in such a short race of 500ft it would be quite a bit slower et wise. You can vary slightly in 500ft with larger top gear with good results but no where near stock 23/38 gears. Sometimes traction is a issue with the stud types and suspension set ups allowed for a class vs the starting line traction, so changing the top gear to 1 more will help get you some traction because its multiplying less torque to the track giving you better traction,but theres a limit.

In grass racing its all about the holeshot...period. If you lose 2-3 sleds out of the gate its very,very difficult to pass that sled in such a short distance, it actually will take alot more hp to do so,because the distance is very short.

20/40 is a good 500ft ratio, but youll not be able to vary far from about 21/39-21/40, and again those all depend on how good the sled is set up.

If you have good sharp chisel studs,good rear suspension set up,and clutching dialed in no reason not to put the max torq to the track with 20/40 and get to the finsh line quicker.

Stupid ? but have you tried tall gears versus low gears say 25/38 vs 20/40 in 500 ft both Don and Tony with your best clutch setups

just the debate over at HCS on gearing someone posted that thats what all the big time racers use at the grass drag like Haydays

from what Ive been reading the taller gear 25-24-23/38-39 launch way harder than say 22-21-20/39-40-41 ;)!
 
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only example I can give ya is off my own personal set up from the 2003 Ohio state snowmobile drag series. Class was stock 700 in this series,(not 700 stock isr pro class.) This class meant no cool downs allowed and had to keep trail track and studs only,no exh./engine mods.
I used a stock brand new left over 2002 srx out of the crate, I put 32 miles on it... all on the grass!!( thats how many 500ft runs i made testing!) set up with 168 mega bite trail studs in stock track-center belt only, h/c clutching set up, jetted down with stock airbox, lots of rear suspension set up time, 93 sunoco premium fuel.
I did quite well with this set up, the sled was originally set up with 20/40 gearing and raced for the first couple times but it never would not spin the track out of the gate, it always roosted for the 1st 50-75ft.(needed more studs but was not allowed) and this causes a overshift in the clutchs when the track catches back up to the ground,so I worked on suspension to no aval. trying to get rid of this.

Sled still worked well and I won fairly easily first few times out with it with no problems,then... about the 3rd race of the series the new firescraps started to catch me in the 3/4 track area and I was only beating them sometimes by tip of a ski loop. Obviously they had been testing between races trying to beat the only srx in the series. So, I then swapped in a 21 tooth top gear and readjusted the chain tension to a tad bit looser tension getting the track to roll easier.

upon testing,and some minor suspension tweaking, the sled didnt spin the track anymore on the start, it simply took off and got great traction in the test field. Next race came and it had been raining alot before the day of race. Went to the race and I got the crappy lane with a puddle of water right on the start line. I figured I was gonna roost mud and spin and overshift the clutch, lose this race for sure. Much to my suprise and everyone elses the sled bit in and won, to boot.... I regained the comfortable lead I had in the earlier races because the sled didnt lose time spinning and it just moved forward,giving me the holeshot and giving the srx the win for the rest of series.

( I got lucky that day in that lane it was hard ground and just water laying on surface...lol)

you can play a little but not alot in 500ft with gears and do good, but this requires, testing,testing,timers and more relentless testing and note taking,more testing. Did I mention you have to test alot to find out what works good....lol :rulez:
 
needaSRX said:
Stupid ? but have you tried tall gears versus low gears say 25/38 vs 20/40 in 500 ft both Don and Tony with your best clutch setups

just the debate over at HCS on gearing someone posted that thats what all the big time racers use at the grass drag like Haydays

from what Ive been reading the taller gear 25-24-23/38-39 launch way harder than say 22-21-20/39-40-41 ;)!

the bigger the hp output of the sled the taller the gearing can be used,on a 700 srx we are only talking about 140, not 250+hp like the big 2 stroke sleds have(thundercats,mach z heavy mods, open mods,etc. it also depends on how heavy the sled is, lighter the sled you can use taller gearing and still go quick/fast.

a srx isnt light and doesnt have gobs of hp vs the weight so your kinda taking information that wont apply to your sled and doing a comparison of apples to oranges in a way..
 
andy, don,t fall in love with a post on hard core sledder about what the big time racers used for gearing at hey days. that ain,t you that ain,t me and that aint don. and i know don knows what i mean by his last post. that class is as farr from stock as you can get. huge horsepower and no sled weight. sure you can gear for 200 mph than. you have a stock srx here. 3:16 (YAMMIE TONY)
 
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Take the advice! I have tried many gear ratios with the srx's on grass.
Gear for the max speed you think you will run in that distance. Adjust slightly as mr viper said for traction. The lower your geared the more traction you will need to harness the power. Spinning is lossing so get it to hook hard with a very low gear ration and high engagement.
The only time we ever over geared was with pro stocks and light mods. These sled have a very high power to weight ratio compared to stockers and improvers.
Good luck and let us know what you find testing!
 
in a perfect world only way to answer this is having a 500 f.t. test strip, with a rock hard clay starting line and a set of timers. also a guy at the 500 f.t. mark with a stalker radar gun. test, test, test. i gear for e.t. not speed. all have different theory's. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
jabber800 said:
Take the advice! I have tried many gear ratios with the srx's on grass.
Gear for the max speed you think you will run in that distance. Adjust slightly as mr viper said for traction. The lower your geared the more traction you will need to harness the power. Spinning is lossing so get it to hook hard with a very low gear ration and high engagement.
The only time we ever over geared was with pro stocks and light mods. These sled have a very high power to weight ratio compared to stockers and improvers.
Good luck and let us know what you find testing!

X2...
Exactly how I used to set up
 


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