Its almost riding time again

bluemonster1

bluemonster1

LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
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Howden ,Manitoba,Canada
got the SRX in the garage and got the bug again.Have to change the jackshaft yet.I seem to remember doing that one year without removing the whole chaincase..is it possible??? Temps are really dropping here by end of the week.Starting to hit 0 celcius for night time lows.Winter is coming early I think.My 2 sleds will be ready to go. Supposed to be a colder and more snowy winter this time around then last season,and last season was mint...
 

bluemonster1 said:
got the SRX in the garage and got the bug again.Have to change the jackshaft yet.I seem to remember doing that one year without removing the whole chaincase..is it possible??? Temps are really dropping here by end of the week.Starting to hit 0 celcius for night time lows.Winter is coming early I think.My 2 sleds will be ready to go. Supposed to be a colder and more snowy winter this time around then last season,and last season was mint...
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25 Celsius here. Just finished 18 holes. Don't want to talk about chain cases yet. Especially when I drove the ball 302 yards today.
 
didn't want to hear that,thought I replaced a jackshaft years back without removing everything,,damn...
well my bearings just came in so I suppose I will slowly start to tear down the chaincase
 
Blue im not sure you have to take the chain case off. You should just have to take the cover off to unbolt it. Then loosen the set nuts on the jack shaft bearing and the 2 bolts on the bearing retainer. Then with a rubber mallet pound out the jackshaft from the chaincase side. as long as the bearings not froze on the shaft You should have enough room to clear the case and break rotor. Dont lose the break rotor key. This is if im remembering right. At least its worth a try, then you dont have to unbolt the drive and have to remove the case.
 
Take a look around on Hartman's website. He has the track removal instructions posted under the montain max section. Iirc it covers drive axle removal to install a longer track, should be just what you need. Either way the secondary clutch has to come off.
 
super1c said:
Blue im not sure you have to take the chain case off. You should just have to take the cover off to unbolt it. Then loosen the set nuts on the jack shaft bearing and the 2 bolts on the bearing retainer. Then with a rubber mallet pound out the jackshaft from the chaincase side. as long as the bearings not froze on the shaft You should have enough room to clear the case and break rotor. Dont lose the break rotor key. This is if im remembering right. At least its worth a try, then you dont have to unbolt the drive and have to remove the case.
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worth the try first...thanks
 
I just replaced my track. You just need to pull the chain case cover. Remove secondary, take the speedo cable and housing off, loosen the set screws on the shaft from underneath, remove lower chain sprocket. Drop the suspension. Not to bad to do.just need the right tools. A couple of bolts on the suspension in the front are a pain but can be done. Hope this helps
 
I just ordered a new track some billet wheels and a bunch of bearings, wheels and other odds and ends. It's definitely time!
 
RB2001SRX700 said:
I just replaced my track. You just need to pull the chain case cover. Remove secondary, take the speedo cable and housing off, loosen the set screws on the shaft from underneath, remove lower chain sprocket. Drop the suspension. Not to bad to do.just need the right tools. A couple of bolts on the suspension in the front are a pain but can be done. Hope this helps
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I am not touching the driveshaft bearing at all.It is the jackshaft that I need to replace due to bearing set screws loosening and damaging the shaft.I only will take cover off,remove upper shaft nut and gear.Then will lock the brake up so the rotor will stay put.Like super1 stated..loosen the jackshaft bearing set screws and remove the 2 bolts on the retainers.Then I can tap the shaft out of the chaincase.The shaft has enough of a recess that the bearing at the opposite end will slide.Then I will pull the shaft up and out and repeat with new jackshaft..carbs to go on and I am done..waiting for the snow then..
 
Seeing or remembering it will be your third shaft you are putting in i really think you are going about it all wrong.You should be looking for the cause not the fastest way to do the job.I think once you put the bearing retainer together the wrong way so that was the cause once.

Other causes for the set screws to come loose can be from one or a combanation of these things

Bent tunnel behind the secondary

Sloppy bearing retainer

Warped brake rotor and stuck keyway on shaft

Seal coller bushing missing top shaft and or the bottom shaft

The wrong collers behind the gears making the chain not run straight.

Install the shaft and tighton the gear nuts than set the bearing set screws in that order ....it is very important it is done in that order.


I would take the extra 1/2 hour to remove the track put the drive all together and put a dial indicater on both shafts, gears ,and the secondary ,as i spin the secondary by hand looking for a problem if nothing was noticable when you dissasembled.

This is the proper way to go about a job on a high performance sled like your srx and i realy dont think the bearing is supposed to beat along the jackshaft past were it will sit only to remove it in the manner you are saying.


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I have a spare jackshaft on the table and the bearing will slide way beyond the point where it is fixed to,about 5 inches to slide inward.I just have to make sure the set screws are red loctited and tightened really well.
 
The set screws are only to hold the inner part of the bearing so it will not spin on the shaft.Bearing seizes up they start to tear as you have found out,or side forces that i have tryed to mention pull at them.

Anywho i am done with this, it just drives me crazy when guys look for short cuts when doing matenance on there sleds.I still dont think the bearing should slid that far up but am only going from a old memory maybie someone else will pipe in.


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got the jackshaft out easy enough,just had to remove the coolant bottle to slide it up and out.Bearing slid like I said.My bearings have never seized up yet on the jackshaft,just the set screws loosening up and causing wear on the shaft.Got it really snug this time around,should be good for a couple of years.
But soon the snow will be coming,some snow up North coming this weekend..our temps will be dropping next week..both sleds will be ready to go..
 
It's too bad you already put it back together. I've had to put collars on shafts before and had to make sure they stay put. I've ground small flat spots and used the set screws with the cone tip at really bite.
 
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