VIP triple pipes for Viper

SRX-SKI

SRX-SKI

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Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
142
Age
40
Location
Nunavut
Hello, I was reading through the installation instructions for my 02 Viper for the bender triple pipes. I am having trouble understanding the Air Box Modification. I cut out the 9 1/2 inch long by 1 3/8 inch wide hole already, and It says to "reassemble the Air Box without the Shelves".

Does this mean the air box should be empty inside? So its just the box now inside like we see it on the outside assembled?

Thanks in advance.
 

Yup, Gutted air box! Helps your engine pull in more o2 for the pipes.. Your going to notice a huge blow to your fuel mileage. Heads up if you are new to the viper with bender pipes, do some research on what Rpms to run and why the engine runs hot at a certain rpm.
 
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Thank you, I have been running the benders for a few years now but with the shelves(the middle inside with the cylindrical holes going down to the boots). My centre piston failed on me even with the shelves, must of been a build up of heat from that certain RPM you mentioned. Should I worry about that happening again without the shelves now? The whole time I was running the pipes it always did seem very rich, so I guess removing the shelves won't hurt it but increase my HP. I was hauling sleds 13 hrs with averaging 80 km. Maybe there was a heat build up that caused the my centre piston to fail.
 
Have you checked your jetting/piston wash ? Change in temperature can cause problems aswell. Do you run the opticool gasket from bender and add the rear cooler?
Usually EGTS(exhaust gas temperature) go hand in hand with pipes. A must have. That rpm, correct me if I'm wrong is around 7600 an causes the motor to detonate/burn down.
 
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Yes I have the rear heat exchanger and Peak Performance heads on. I kept checking the wash but it was always too rich to see the wash, always black on the whole top of the piston. Spark plugs would go black after a few days of driving around. Maybe there was not enough oil lubricating and my centre bearing went. I had the oil set to 23.5 since I ran synthetic, I have replaced the entire engine with another one with the peak performance heads back on from the other engine and there was no damage on the domes. Oil cable is now back to stock recommended 20.5 mm. I will try without the shelves as instructions said, I have 167.5 mj but I forget what the pj are, I will double check the pj. Bender recommends 55 i believe.
 
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmob...g a Sled/Jetting a sled and reading plugs.htm

Great write up by mrviper if you havent read yet. If you were black you were running too much oil and not enough gas to "Wash" the tops of the pistons and cool. You built too much heat in the center and burned down, Not due to lack of oil. You were lean with jetting or too rich on oil. True jet wash reading have to be done at each circuit with a long run and hitting the kill.
 
Great write up, thanks. I will start this when the time comes, I am doing the touch ups before snowmobile season. We have snow now but still alot of gravel. Thanks again.
 
I forgot to ask, If I was too lean does that mean I should leave the shelves in the air box?
 
Yeah I am going to take out the shelves, it was probably my tempa-flow that leaned it out to cause the piston to go. all the heat build up from under the hood and tricked my tempa-flow into leaning it out. to remove the tempa-flow all I need to do is put a different cover on the top of my PTO carb? and change the top of the air box where the tempa-flow is mounted? If I removed it, Do I vent the carbs to the airbox? or do I vent it to the air outside the airbox? Sorry for asking so many ?'s :)
 
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