what is involved w removing and replacing clutch slider/bushings?

maxco

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Sep 30, 2009
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I have searched around the site here, and do not seem to find what I am looking for. I have a worn out primary that I bought :( I did not know how worked it was before I bought it, but there you go.
The bushing that goes around the sliding sheave is gone, completely. I need a grunt tool and a bearing race installer for the bushing that goes around the shaft. This I know, and think I understand. I have not decided whether or not to disassemble the spider myself or not, but I think I have a grasp of this process from reading about it here. The best Yamaha site on the Net..TY here has some posts about this end of the process, but the crux of my question is this....
I also want to re-place the sliders (8Bw 17653-00-00) for my 2000 Mountain max. These are the sliders that fit into the slots? /guides. they show having a spring pin that retains them. my Clymer manual basically gives out at this point. It says nothing about replacing them. Are these difficult to remove? there any magic to putting them back together? Thanks in advance for any words of guidance. Pray for snow!
 

for a one shot deal, i would suggest having a professional remove the spider. with any luck, you can watch or assist.

as for your sliders, they simply slide on/off the roll pin, once the spider is separated from the sheaves. they dont usually wear that bad except for severely neglected clutches. sounds like yours may fit this category.

there is a tolerance of 0-.3mm total when calculating the space between the spider arm/slider/sheave. what most manuals fail to show, as do the parts breakdowns is the available shim spacers for the sliders. yes, there are shim kits. essentially thin metal pre-formed pieces to hold the slider buttons correctly away from the spider.

i have several new in package sliders as well as the shims i would make you a deal on(50% off retail/shipped) if the sliders are actually shot in your clutch. too bad you ended up with a bad clutch. most times the parts list will exceed the price of a good used clutch sold by reputable folks by the time you go through one. ebay? i have several runable clutches as well.
 
thanks Snowdad

I bought it last year. I bought it from a TY member off of a running sled that was being parted out. I bought quite a few things...air box, throttle, carbs and a primary. Most of these were fine, but under maintained. I bought them for replacement, but mainly ease of tuning. I wanted a carb set, and a clutch so I could have a different set up available if snow conditions/temperature changed dramatically. Also so I could test a few things easier in a single day.
anyway, I bought the parts, but did not tear into the clutch until now. That is when I realized something was amiss. the spider wobbles all over. I might send the guy an e-mail to let him know....but not thoroughly inspecting the parts upon receiving is on me. I spent like $100 on it so it kinda sucks. I have already ordered the parts, but I wonder if it is worth it to re-build this one with the wear and tear it has. #$%&*
 
Check for cracks at the base of the sheave. I recommend only replacing the brake side with the update 4stroke version that used Orings.
I can install everything for 40$ plus parts and shipping. Shipping is usually 15
 
your ahead of the game rebuilding the clutch if the sheaves show know signs of heat cracks. that way you know its fresh. lots of mind peace just in knowing.

btv sounds like hes offering a good deal. curious as to the particulars.
 


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