Tele Man
New member
Hello everyone,
My name is Dan...I am a newbie here.
I have two old yams that I am fixing up/restoring, an 87 Enticer ET340L (Not much to do with this machine 1700 miles, and a 1981 Excell III 340, less than 900 miles, however, not aw well cared for as the Enticer. Both sleds have one similar attribute, the rear and front track suspension shocks are shot. The skids and tracks seem fine.
Question: To replace the shocks, do I have to remove the skids from the track? or is there a way one can replace the shocks without removing the skids?. I never removed a skid or track so I am a little worried that I will mess things up to where I will be out $$ to have someone repair my errors.
I already purchased the shocks and collars and I replaced the shocks/dampers/wear bars on all of the ski's.
I believe the shocks are totally locked up from sitting over twenty years.
All the best.
Dan
My name is Dan...I am a newbie here.
I have two old yams that I am fixing up/restoring, an 87 Enticer ET340L (Not much to do with this machine 1700 miles, and a 1981 Excell III 340, less than 900 miles, however, not aw well cared for as the Enticer. Both sleds have one similar attribute, the rear and front track suspension shocks are shot. The skids and tracks seem fine.
Question: To replace the shocks, do I have to remove the skids from the track? or is there a way one can replace the shocks without removing the skids?. I never removed a skid or track so I am a little worried that I will mess things up to where I will be out $$ to have someone repair my errors.
I already purchased the shocks and collars and I replaced the shocks/dampers/wear bars on all of the ski's.
I believe the shocks are totally locked up from sitting over twenty years.
All the best.
Dan
BornYamaha
Member
I have always pulled the skid. I'm pretty sure your going to need to as well. Pulling it out is pretty easy. Putting it back is a little harder, but not too bad. Should really pull it anyway to clean & re-grease the cross shafts. Make sure you adjust the rear wheels of the skid so the track is as loose as possible before you start. When reinstalling it helps to collapse the rear shock and hold it locked there with a tie down strap or something similar. Have the rear of the sled suspended from the ceiling then lower it over the skid while lining up the front bolts first. Then lower the sled to get the rear close. Slowly release your strap until the holes line up. Tighten the track back up with the rear wheel adjusters, run the track, then adjust the track wheel tension one side or the other until the track clips are equally centered from the rails. You have the correct overall tension while doing this as well. It can be helpful to take the rear side springs off their slide rail carriers when lining up the rear bolts. Good luck. It really isn't to bad.
Tele Man
New member
BornYamaha said:
Doh! Yeah, I really should take the opportunity to grease and check everything out.
Thank you so much for the reply and instructions...Will do
BornYamaha nailed it. The very best thing you could do for the rear skids is pull them out, clean them up and re-grease the shafts. Use a good quality low temp water resistant grease and clean as much rust as you can off of the shafts. Good time to paint rusty parts while you are in there.