Putting a can on my 02 Vmax.

Terrence R

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Oct 6, 2013
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140
Age
40
Location
Saint John New Brunswick Canada
I just picked up a 2002 Vmax 600 triple and it's in amazing condition. It's been well taken care of. It's very clean and tight. It does have a bad centre rear shock tho. But I just purchased a new one for $60. It will press down smooth with good compression, but it won't return. Hopefully the new shock fixes that problem.

Anyway, I just ordered a new MBRP race can for it off of ebay. I just wanted to wake the sled up a bit and let it be heard. My question is, should I be looking into jetting or lifting the needles to compensate for the new can? How about clutching?

I'm looking to do some of the mods to it later in life. Maybe next summer. Like thinning the head gasket, updated skid, reed spacers, etc. but right now I'm just planning on leaving it stock with the exception of the can. Just wondering if I can just put it on and ride. Any experienced help is greatly appreciated. Thanx.
 

Yup put the can on and ride, no jetting or clutching necessary.
Reed spacers will help in the mid range TONS...(also no jetting or clutching necessary, for Clutching look in the tech section, there was a lot left on the table from the factory.
 
I have vForce reeds and the mbrp race can on my mountain max 700. Woke it up a lot, and 12 lbs lighter than stock. Not quite as potent as triple pipes but I also don't want to deal with having to re-jet all the time. Our temp and humidity can change drasticly through the season and I just want to hop on it and brrraaaaappppp it!
 
I dont know how strict they are in canada on noise but those mbrp's are ticket makers here. Trout troopers love to write tickets on exhausts being to loud here. I do love the sound of mbrp though. My bud has one on his viper. Sounds silly
 
you could also drill out the bottom of the exhaust and not cost anything. Still remains the stock look but sounds better. 2" hole saw would work. drill from bottom opening. :) If you don't want to use a 2 " start smaller and can work your way up.
 
RB2001SRX700 said:
you could also drill out the bottom of the exhaust and not cost anything. Still remains the stock look but sounds better. 2" hole saw would work. drill from bottom opening. :) If you don't want to use a 2 " start smaller and can work your way up.

That did cross my mind. But I figured that the new can will shave some weight off. Plus, I want to leave the stock can as is, just incase I wanna throw it back on.
 
The can just showed up

The instructions say to use hi temp silicone for where it meets the expansion pipe. Are u guys doing this? Or is it ok to run it without the silicone? Will it leak too much? Is there a gasket there in the stock can that I can match up and use instead?
 
There is a donut of some sort of high temp compress able material. I didn't follow the instructions to put it on the donut first, I tried to seal the outside seam with it. I get a puff or 2 out a small hole when I start it up.
 
I think it will overrev, it's like they put clutching for a 500 on that 600 and 600 on a 700 on those sleds. You will probably need heavier rivets. I would invest in a good clutch kit that is adjustable, before I buy a can. Do you want to go faster or go louder?
 
norwegian said:
I think it will overrev, it's like they put clutching for a 500 on that 600 and 600 on a 700 on those sleds. You will probably need heavier rivets. I would invest in a good clutch kit that is adjustable, before I buy a can. Do you want to go faster or go louder?

Louder. With crisper throttle response. I got the pipe. Just gatta put it on.
 
What I think is the best way to achieve that:
Hauck thin headgasket
Reed stopper notch or reed spacers.
Clutch kit
Adj. Transfer rods.
 
norwegian said:
What I think is the best way to achieve that:
Hauck thin headgasket
Reed stopper notch or reed spacers.
Clutch kit
Adj. Transfer rods.

What would u suggest for a clutch kit? I don't need anything too crazy. Maybe something to help avoid over revving though. Can I leave my secondary stock?
 


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