barkerman77
Member
hey guys i picked up this viper a couple months ago for 1500 bucks. i got a really good deal on it. im just wondering about these sleds. i dont know much about them. im currently doing the driveline bearings and seals. the sled has 16000km on it. probably original pistons. is there any thing to watch for on these sleds. like common problems?
mrsnocrazy
New member
I picked up an 04 sx viper recently too. I have found lots of great info in the tech section, and by using the search function. With that high km I would be checking compression, piston condition, carbs + needle settings, exhaust gaskets, and power valves. Lots of other stuff to check too. I would get a line on a service manual, if you become a VIP member on here you get free access to your manual. Good luck happy sledding!
Suprx125
New member
My sled has just over 9k miles on it, or just under 16k kilos and shes a runner. It was rebuilt at about 8500 miles as preventative maintenance. Check/clean/adjust power valves, clean carbs, & check compression. Just start reading thru this section of the forum. Tons of info on here. Check all your suspension bushings & skid bearings too.
mile9c1
New member
I just picked up a Viper and did the same thing you are doing. Here are some other common problems from my research, in addition to those mentioned above:
-Replace the pull-rope holder on top of the chain case (Yamaha PN 8FF-1546C-00-00, it's only $3.50). Yours is probably worn, even if it looks ok on the outside.
-Weld the cracks in the exhaust manifold (mine was cracked in 4 places, 2 on top and 2 on bottom).
-Make sure there is a gasket or silicone sealant under the fuel pump to keep water from freezing in the vent hole (mine was siliconed but I put a gasket under it anyway).
-Weld the cracks in the W-Arm on the front suspension (I didn't do this because I replaced my skid with a monoshock skid).
-Revalve all 4 shocks if they're stock (stock valving is terribly stiff on the compression stroke).
-Install a rear tunnel cooler (stock Vipers like to overheat). I installed an SRX cooler into mine but any cooler is better than none.
-Install the Bender / Opticool head gasket (it promotes even cooling across all 3 cylinders... stock Vipers like to overheat).
-Install an SRX engine torque limiter (the Viper has none; instead Yamaha aligns the engine crooked to the jackshaft, hoping that it'll pull itself into alignment).
-Replace the front left engine side engine mount bracket with either the SRX bracket (it uses 3 mounting bolts vs 2) or at least replace your stock 2 bolts with higher grade bolts. They tend to break probably from lack of a stock torque limiter.
-Replace the fuel filter inside the gas tank.
That's about it, other than general repair and maintenance
-Replace the pull-rope holder on top of the chain case (Yamaha PN 8FF-1546C-00-00, it's only $3.50). Yours is probably worn, even if it looks ok on the outside.
-Weld the cracks in the exhaust manifold (mine was cracked in 4 places, 2 on top and 2 on bottom).
-Make sure there is a gasket or silicone sealant under the fuel pump to keep water from freezing in the vent hole (mine was siliconed but I put a gasket under it anyway).
-Weld the cracks in the W-Arm on the front suspension (I didn't do this because I replaced my skid with a monoshock skid).
-Revalve all 4 shocks if they're stock (stock valving is terribly stiff on the compression stroke).
-Install a rear tunnel cooler (stock Vipers like to overheat). I installed an SRX cooler into mine but any cooler is better than none.
-Install the Bender / Opticool head gasket (it promotes even cooling across all 3 cylinders... stock Vipers like to overheat).
-Install an SRX engine torque limiter (the Viper has none; instead Yamaha aligns the engine crooked to the jackshaft, hoping that it'll pull itself into alignment).
-Replace the front left engine side engine mount bracket with either the SRX bracket (it uses 3 mounting bolts vs 2) or at least replace your stock 2 bolts with higher grade bolts. They tend to break probably from lack of a stock torque limiter.
-Replace the fuel filter inside the gas tank.
That's about it, other than general repair and maintenance
jpilk99
New member
Great stuff, Mile9c1.
barkerman77
Member
thanks boys. ill do what i can right away. thanks again
In addition to what is posted above:
- Richen up the carb needles to help with the common Viper midrange lean condition, and to help compensate for the crappy fuel quality currently available. I don't recall the exact needle clip position spec, but there are many posts on the subject here so a search would provide the info. Some riders also run only premium fuel in the Vipers.
- Pull your reed blocks out and check the reeds and stoppers, especially with that mileage. Some people have found chipped reeds and/or cracked reed stoppers. You don't want a piece of that metal reed stopper trying to go thru your engine.
- Check for wire harness rub thru especially in the engine bay. Many have found rub wear with the harness that runs under the engine, and I believe there have been some issues with the harness above the LH footwell area where the relays and such are located. I've also found rub areas in the harness to the right of the carbs, under the coolant hose/thermostat/bottle area.
- I believe the post above regarding W-arm cracks on the front suspension meant to refer to the W-arm at the front of the rear suspension (located below the fuel tank area of the rear suspension). It is common for the weld areas and the tubing itself to develop cracks especially with abuse and hard riding.
- If you experience hyfax wear at the front curve of the rear suspension slide rails, you can add a extra wheel kit to the slide rails (consists of 2 mounting blocks, 2 small diameter wheels like what is found up inside the tunnel holding up the track, and mounting hardware). For that matter check for cracks in the aluminum slide rails as well, especially at the front bend.
Good luck, and despite everything noted above to check on, you bought one of the finest sleds ever made, even at 12 years old.
- Richen up the carb needles to help with the common Viper midrange lean condition, and to help compensate for the crappy fuel quality currently available. I don't recall the exact needle clip position spec, but there are many posts on the subject here so a search would provide the info. Some riders also run only premium fuel in the Vipers.
- Pull your reed blocks out and check the reeds and stoppers, especially with that mileage. Some people have found chipped reeds and/or cracked reed stoppers. You don't want a piece of that metal reed stopper trying to go thru your engine.
- Check for wire harness rub thru especially in the engine bay. Many have found rub wear with the harness that runs under the engine, and I believe there have been some issues with the harness above the LH footwell area where the relays and such are located. I've also found rub areas in the harness to the right of the carbs, under the coolant hose/thermostat/bottle area.
- I believe the post above regarding W-arm cracks on the front suspension meant to refer to the W-arm at the front of the rear suspension (located below the fuel tank area of the rear suspension). It is common for the weld areas and the tubing itself to develop cracks especially with abuse and hard riding.
- If you experience hyfax wear at the front curve of the rear suspension slide rails, you can add a extra wheel kit to the slide rails (consists of 2 mounting blocks, 2 small diameter wheels like what is found up inside the tunnel holding up the track, and mounting hardware). For that matter check for cracks in the aluminum slide rails as well, especially at the front bend.
Good luck, and despite everything noted above to check on, you bought one of the finest sleds ever made, even at 12 years old.
Snowsnake
New member
Sold my 02 ER a couple of years ago with 15k miles on it.Still got to 100 mph+ pretty quick.Motor was never apart other than cleaning exhaust valves,carbs etc...Never changed anything from stock and drove the crap out of it.Last I heard it was still going.The only real repairs that I had in all those miles was a busted jackshaft and cracked w-arm.
These were taken the day I decided to sell.
These were taken the day I decided to sell.
02YamiSxViper
New member
Hopefully mine lasts that long. My viper has 9500 miles on it and I bought it last season. The guy I bought it from never opened it up or did anything to it maintenance and otherwise. So I ripped the whole thing apart. Complete engine teardown, checked crank, replaced crank seals (heard they go around this time), New pistons, rings, pins and bearings. Cleaned carbs and adjusted them Mr.Viper way. New bearings and seals drive and jackshaft (bought them from all balls racing $40 for all bearings and seals heard nothing but good things), Took skid out and did the BTV complete skid fix and replaced everything loose. Took front trailing arms and radius rods off and powdercoated them, new ski busings etc..... If anything lets go this seasons I'll be soooooo disappointed. It's at the point where I can't do anything else to the thing. My friend gave me a 2004 Polaris Frontier 4 stroke 2 years ago, he said it was good to go, internet said mega reliable but slow. Took the family out and the damn BI&^H blew up while we were in the middle of no where. NEVER AGAIN