Removing broken manifold studs.

tnc110

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What a shitty day. I noticed that one of my manifold studs was broken on the Viper and the manifold had the typical cracking. So I start taking off the manifold and manage to twist off another stud. One stud is broken off flush with the cylinder and the other was sticking out 3/8" or so. I tried to drill out the stud that was broken flush with the cylinder on the sled. Bad idea...should have just pulled the cylinder. Ended up really messing it up, got off center just a tad and it was all over from there. Even tried to drill and tap a larger hole. Ended up getting into the coolant passage. Thought about tig welding the hole shut ans starting over but ended up JB welding a stud in the gaping hole! Any one else have to do this or something similar? Is the JB weld going to come back to haunt me?

On to the other one that was sticking out. Tried vice grips and heat...no dice. Tried to weld a nut to the stud....this usually works every time. Not this time...stud sheared off flush. Welded another nut to stud, this time the stud sheared off just a little lower than the time before. Tomorrow I am going to try to drill it out on the drill press.

Anyone else have such bad luck with these studs?!?!?!?!
 

wow.... rough night eh? i dont like the jb weld idea because coolant systems pressurize and with the vibration, it could pop out.
 
I did have a stud break off also. After i exhausted all my knowledge i took the cylinder off and took it to a machine shop. Droped it off and said call me when done. They called me before i got home and i live 20 min from the machine shop. LOL! lesson learned. " Let people do what they do cause they do it best"
 
I had a motor mount bolt with similiar issue. Had a broken easy out in there before I was finished. Had to pull the engine and take it to a machine shop. The machinest said he had trouble getting it out so that alone cost me $70.
 
2x on that. broken motor mount bolt, took it to the dealership, 100$ for 3 bolts broke off the front mounts to be taken out and replaced. i dont play with broken studs or bolts anymore.
 
That sounds like something that would happen to me. Seems like a 20 minute project turns into an all day one because of one broken bolt or stripped thread or something. I hope you have some good luck getting that straightened out. That sucks.
 
That sounds like something that would happen to me. Seems like a 20 minute project turns into an all day one because of one broken bolt or stripped thread or something. I hope you have some good luck getting that straightened out. That sucks.

Haha no kidding. Everytime I tell my wife it's a quick job I'll be outside for like an hour, I end up coming 7 hours later because of some stripped, stuck or hard to get at bolt. Rule of thumb: Take the time you think it'll take and multiply by 8 and that's the actual time. If your done early you get a "Wow done already?" if your on time no bitching. As for the JB weld thing, that sounds like a bad idea. I wouldn't trust that fix in the middle of the forest in -30 degree weather. Get a new jug or get it repaired by a welder or machine shop.
 
Haha no kidding. Everytime I tell my wife it's a quick job I'll be outside for like an hour, I end up coming 7 hours later because of some stripped, stuck or hard to get at bolt. Rule of thumb: Take the time you think it'll take and multiply by 8 and that's the actual time. If your done early you get a "Wow done already?" if your on time no bitching. As for the JB weld thing, that sounds like a bad idea. I wouldn't trust that fix in the middle of the forest in -30 degree weather. Get a new jug or get it repaired by a welder or machine shop.

My fear exactly. If I had not gotten into the coolant passage I would give it a try... I think I'm going to grind it down, lug it back up and drill and tap a new hole.
 
most all the time your better off taking it to a place to have the job dont or you end up with a mess to fix and it cost you more money to fix the mess then the original problem.

the way to get those studs out somewhat easy is to use a bridgeport with a small milling end in it and mill out the stud till just barely the thread tips shows, grab ahold of the thread end with needle nose pliers and it comes out like a coilspring. Run a tap in hole to clean up the corrosion and its good to go. more then likely thats how the first machine shop did this for the 1 poster, its simple , IF, you have the equipment, not so simple if you dont and it ususally just ends up costing you more to repair then taking it to the shop in the first place.

I would NOT rely on jb weld, tig weld up the hole and redrill/tap it. (( be sure that all the original steel is removed from the hole))
 
most all the time your better off taking it to a place to have the job dont or you end up with a mess to fix and it cost you more money to fix the mess then the original problem.

the way to get those studs out somewhat easy is to use a bridgeport with a small milling end in it and mill out the stud till just barely the thread tips shows, grab ahold of the thread end with needle nose pliers and it comes out like a coilspring. Run a tap in hole to clean up the corrosion and its good to go. more then likely thats how the first machine shop did this for the 1 poster, its simple , IF, you have the equipment, not so simple if you dont and it ususally just ends up costing you more to repair then taking it to the shop in the first place.

I would NOT rely on jb weld, tig weld up the hole and redrill/tap it. (( be sure that all the original steel is removed from the hole))

Amen.....

opsled
 


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