Critter_Git'er
New member
New to the site and to the sport of snow machining. I was recently given a 94 Vmax 500 with electric start and reverse. (One of those you come dig it out of 6' of snow you can have it deal) and to my surprise the only things I see wrong with it is a dead battery, cracked hood and a slightly bent ski shock. Other than that it'll fire right and drives just fine. I'm wondering if there is anything I should be aware of/ simple mods I can do with out spending a lot on it. Is hard to block the oil injection so I can pre mix? Or is it even worth it. I'm just curious on y'all's input and knowledge.
Thank you
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Thank you
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s10mike
Member
welcome to site. cool old sled you have there. make sure to clean those carbs. it will run alot better.
At that price, not a bad way to get in to snow machining. FYI, if I recall correctly, those decals look like 1995 model. May want to verify the year for maintenance and replacement parts info, there were a few differences between 1994 and 1995.
If your bent ski shock is affecting suspension travel and ride quality, I'd replace it.
Keep an eye on all of the bearings on the sled, common ones that need maintenance or replacement are on all of the wheels in the rear suspension, the bearing directly behind the secondary clutch, and the bearing directly below the secondary clutch on the tunnel that has the speedometer drive housing covering it. The last two I noted are often neglected and can cause further problems if they fail so it is worth checking to make sure they are good and if so clean them and repack with fresh grease. You can find threads on this site detailing how to do so, but in effect you pick out the rubber/metal seal without damaging it. Then you can see the internals of the bearing for inspection, cleaning, repack, and then reinstall the seal.
Keep up on chaincase maintenance; clean oil changed often some people do it every year, proper chain tension, check your brake pads while you're at it. If the chaincase hasn't been apart to clean/inspect recently, take the cover and look for contaminants, dirt, shavings, etc, replacing worn parts as needed. Note that the gasket on these can get damaged easily, so you may want to have a new one on hand, or you can make one if you have the material, and in any case I'd use some silicone sealer to help seal the cover back up upon reassembly.
Pick up an owners manual if you don't have one, they are full of helpful specs and maintenance information. Also pick up a shop manual for more detailed service/maintenance information. Both may still be available thru Yamaha or some of the advertisers on this site. You can also get a copy of the service manual by becoming a VIP member of this site, and requesting from one of the moderators. You can search for a thread on here that has the details.
One of the best things you can do is take some time to surf and search this website, it is the best on the net and you can read for days and have a lot of your questions answered. There is quite a bit of 94-96 Vmax information here but keep in mind that there is a ton more 97-up information and with a little common sense a lot of it transfers to the earlier sleds as well.
Good luck, you've come to the right place for Yamaha information!
If your bent ski shock is affecting suspension travel and ride quality, I'd replace it.
Keep an eye on all of the bearings on the sled, common ones that need maintenance or replacement are on all of the wheels in the rear suspension, the bearing directly behind the secondary clutch, and the bearing directly below the secondary clutch on the tunnel that has the speedometer drive housing covering it. The last two I noted are often neglected and can cause further problems if they fail so it is worth checking to make sure they are good and if so clean them and repack with fresh grease. You can find threads on this site detailing how to do so, but in effect you pick out the rubber/metal seal without damaging it. Then you can see the internals of the bearing for inspection, cleaning, repack, and then reinstall the seal.
Keep up on chaincase maintenance; clean oil changed often some people do it every year, proper chain tension, check your brake pads while you're at it. If the chaincase hasn't been apart to clean/inspect recently, take the cover and look for contaminants, dirt, shavings, etc, replacing worn parts as needed. Note that the gasket on these can get damaged easily, so you may want to have a new one on hand, or you can make one if you have the material, and in any case I'd use some silicone sealer to help seal the cover back up upon reassembly.
Pick up an owners manual if you don't have one, they are full of helpful specs and maintenance information. Also pick up a shop manual for more detailed service/maintenance information. Both may still be available thru Yamaha or some of the advertisers on this site. You can also get a copy of the service manual by becoming a VIP member of this site, and requesting from one of the moderators. You can search for a thread on here that has the details.
One of the best things you can do is take some time to surf and search this website, it is the best on the net and you can read for days and have a lot of your questions answered. There is quite a bit of 94-96 Vmax information here but keep in mind that there is a ton more 97-up information and with a little common sense a lot of it transfers to the earlier sleds as well.
Good luck, you've come to the right place for Yamaha information!
Critter_Git'er
New member
Thanks SRX700c! took the sled out about 2 weeks ago through out the back woods up here in AK for some Fur hunting.. all I got was cold feet and hands.. haha the sled started out great! Then started to take a turn for the worse. I am running way to rich! it'll start up great then when applied throttle it starts bogging down and sometimes die when I could finally get the sled to start moving which is typically 30-45 secs of inching forward and bogging sounds it'll take off but not its full potential. it fowled the plugs. (easy fix) im getting ready to pull the carbs and give them a cleaning. and ill do some research on the OI to see if I can adjust it or block it completely and run premix.
UpstateDoubleD
New member
Sounds like it could be Choking to Death ?
Take a peek in that Air Box for a nest of some sort.
And you might check that the choke cable is returning to off all the way..
Does it smoke allot ?
Take a peek in that Air Box for a nest of some sort.
And you might check that the choke cable is returning to off all the way..
Does it smoke allot ?
Critter_Git'er
New member
The airbox was a little dirty, but nothing crazy to where I think it would cause that problem.
And how would I do that check on the choke? I'm in the process with cleaning the carbs. And noticed the choke splits into 2 cables and ties into the carb.
And is there a way to adjust the OI?
I'm just trying to cover everything. And thank you guys for all your input and helping me with my first sled. Much appreciated!
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And how would I do that check on the choke? I'm in the process with cleaning the carbs. And noticed the choke splits into 2 cables and ties into the carb.
And is there a way to adjust the OI?
I'm just trying to cover everything. And thank you guys for all your input and helping me with my first sled. Much appreciated!
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Hammer Down
Member
Make sure you clean the carbs VERY thoroughly. Some guys replace tons of electrical parts and finally end up cleaning the carbs a second time and do it right and then the sled runs great. pay special attention to the o-rings(replace),pilot jets,and needle and seats(remove floats). Also, pull the gas tank off and clean or at least siphon it very good. Then only use prememium fuel preferably with no ethanol. Not all, but most of the problems I read about on here stem from dirty carbs or improperly cleaned carbs. I have recleaned carbs that my buddies have taken to dealers to be cleaned and when I take them apart they are a dirty(crusty) joke. One came back with crusty orings and clogged seats and the float pins were not even pressed back in. The other came back with a broken throttle cable and went only 20 mph. In summary, do it yourself and do it right the first time.
Critter_Git'er
New member
caravanman
New member
The color is throwing you off because its a DX, factory 2 up machine.At that price, not a bad way to get in to snow machining. FYI, if I recall correctly, those decals look like 1995 model. May want to verify the year for maintenance and replacement parts info, there were a few differences between 1994 and 1995.
They all had the 2 up seat, pass foot rests, reverse, electric start. Nice machines. I couldn't find one years ago when I was in the market.
The color is throwing you off because its a DX, factory 2 up machine.
They all had the 2 up seat, pass foot rests, reverse, electric start. Nice machines. I couldn't find one years ago when I was in the market.
No, the color is not throwing me off. I never mentioned anything about the color, and I know full well it is a DX 2-up model. If you read my post you will see I mentioned the decals, and the decals do look like the 1995 design, not the 1994 or 1996 design.
Since you mentioned the color, I do recall that the 1995 DX's were a nice darker blue, just like in the op's pic above. As for the color of 1994 DX's, I do know they were available in black, not sure if the blue was available on those or not, I suspect not. Hope this helps the op, don't want to confuse him, it's best for him to determine for sure which year sled he has.
Critter_Git'er
New member
Critter_Git'er
New member
5/94 = 1995 Model Year.
Kind of like cars/trucks. When did the 1995 model year cars trucks come out? Summer/Fall 1994. Check your VIN tag on your car/truck, if it was built early in the production run it will list July, August, or September/1994, if built later it could be April, May, or June/1995, and of course could be anything in between since auto manufacturing generally takes place during +/- 11 months out of the year per assembly line. Snowmobile manufacturing needs to take place in the summer/fall months ahead of the actual model year, else we would not be able to have our new fancy sleds in time to start riding in the Fall/Winter when the snow comes, at least in the 48 States and lower Canada where most snowmobile sales occur.
8CL-000127 is also 1995 model year.
Kind of like cars/trucks. When did the 1995 model year cars trucks come out? Summer/Fall 1994. Check your VIN tag on your car/truck, if it was built early in the production run it will list July, August, or September/1994, if built later it could be April, May, or June/1995, and of course could be anything in between since auto manufacturing generally takes place during +/- 11 months out of the year per assembly line. Snowmobile manufacturing needs to take place in the summer/fall months ahead of the actual model year, else we would not be able to have our new fancy sleds in time to start riding in the Fall/Winter when the snow comes, at least in the 48 States and lower Canada where most snowmobile sales occur.
8CL-000127 is also 1995 model year.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
That is the carb switch for the TORS. There is also a switch on the throttle.
SX600abuser
Member
I curious to know what this deal is. It's hooked to the throttle. (Pic 1) and I'm also wondering how to adjust the choke.
To add to what sleddineinar said, yes that is the tors but above it is the idle screw adjustment. I cant remember if that carb linkage is setup like my triple or not, with 2 separate cables I suspect not. The overall adjustment should hold true though. At some point along the cable (probably when it is a single cable) you should find an adjuster for cable length. Basically you want 1/8"-3/16" of gap (freeplay) between the choke lever and the backing plate the lever rocks against. I hope this helps.
Zack1978
New member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2005
- Messages
- 142
No, the color is not throwing me off. I never mentioned anything about the color, and I know full well it is a DX 2-up model. If you read my post you will see I mentioned the decals, and the decals do look like the 1995 design, not the 1994 or 1996 design.
Since you mentioned the color, I do recall that the 1995 DX's were a nice darker blue, just like in the op's pic above. As for the color of 1994 DX's, I do know they were available in black, not sure if the blue was available on those or not, I suspect not. Hope this helps the op, don't want to confuse him, it's best for him to determine for sure which year sled he has.
What size track does the 1994 DX model have?
Zack
What size track does the 1994 DX model have?
Zack
Specs show 121"
Zack1978
New member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2005
- Messages
- 142
Specs show 121"
So the DX is a 2 seater model, but with a standard size track? I assume that a 121" track makes replacement cost lower, correct?
Zack
That's what the specs show for 1994.So the DX is a 2 seater model, but with a standard size track?
I assume that a 121" track makes replacement cost lower, correct?
Zack
If buying new, yes, unless someone is having a good sale on longer tracks.
If buying used, depends on the seller, condition, style, and demand for the track. But in the end it all comes down to the seller and his price.
121" tracks certainly are more common, new or used.