Dcf1999
New member
So I was replacing my idler arm and while tourquing it to the correct value, the bolt stripped out. I decided to buy a time-sert (kind of like a helocoil except it's a solid bushing.) Anyways, while I was tapping the hole (was in a rush... admit was stupid to be in a rush) I started tapping it on an angle. I pulled the tap out and re-tapped it correctly. Basically the whole is roughly 30mm long and the first 15 mm of the hole isn't tapped all that well while the last 15mm is tapped fine. I bought a 30mm time-sert to put in the hole. I want to make sure the time-sert is secured. I guess I want it as permanent as possible as I don't envision myself taking the idler arm off again. It's my beater sled (wife's now) but next year I plan on buying another and giving her my 700. I’ll probably keep it for friends who want to ride and don’t want to rent one. Anyways, I was thinking of using lock tight red but I don’t' know if that will "fill in" the messed up threads so then I thought about jb weld. I wouldn't jb weld the actual bolt, just the outside threads of the time-sert. Any ideas or suggestions? Since it's one of the main parts of the steering system, I really don’t' want to jerry-rig it... I'd like it to be as solid as possible. I might even drill the head of the bolt and safety wire it to something to make sure the bold and/or bold and time-sert don’t back out.
which part exactly are you referring to? what i call the idler arm is the part that connects the tie rods to both steering arms as well as the steering post. its not threaded, it uses a through bolt and nut. in fact, i dont recall anything threaded for that part. all the associated connections are threaded like the heim joints and such, along with the through bolt.
i would rather see something as important as the steering to be done right, not presidentially engineered. i probably have all the components you need and would just about give them away.
i would rather see something as important as the steering to be done right, not presidentially engineered. i probably have all the components you need and would just about give them away.
Dcf1999
New member
I'm with you... I don't like "rigging" something up. I typically buy oem parts when things need to be replaced.
The part I'm referring to is in the front of the sled and in front of the engine. The steering rod comes from the steering post and connects to it. Then both ski's steering rods connect to it. The actual piece is connected to the frame with a 12mm x 1.25 bolt... No nut. To do it correctly if have to replace the actual aluminum frame in the front which requires a lot of riveting and such. At that point, I'd just get a new sled as the part is a lot of money. I upgraded the idler arm to a newer one with bearings. The older ones just have a bushing and collars. I like the design if the bearings.
The part that stripped out that I'm using the time sert is the aluminum frame piece.
I'm considering adding a nut to the other end of the bolt also just so it can't physically come out. I'm not worried about it becoming "loose" as it won't be as dangerous as the bolt and time-sert popping out of the frame together. But I want the strongest bond possible between the time-sert and frame.
I'd check the condition before each ride to make sure everything is snug.
Time serts are really strong (stronger the helocoils) and the oem approved for certain automotive manufactures.
The part I'm referring to is in the front of the sled and in front of the engine. The steering rod comes from the steering post and connects to it. Then both ski's steering rods connect to it. The actual piece is connected to the frame with a 12mm x 1.25 bolt... No nut. To do it correctly if have to replace the actual aluminum frame in the front which requires a lot of riveting and such. At that point, I'd just get a new sled as the part is a lot of money. I upgraded the idler arm to a newer one with bearings. The older ones just have a bushing and collars. I like the design if the bearings.
The part that stripped out that I'm using the time sert is the aluminum frame piece.
I'm considering adding a nut to the other end of the bolt also just so it can't physically come out. I'm not worried about it becoming "loose" as it won't be as dangerous as the bolt and time-sert popping out of the frame together. But I want the strongest bond possible between the time-sert and frame.
I'd check the condition before each ride to make sure everything is snug.
Time serts are really strong (stronger the helocoils) and the oem approved for certain automotive manufactures.
i was thinking pogo vmax for the bolt, makes sense now that i have the correct sled in my head. sounds like your doing it right. i would use red loctite before jb weld in that application, but you have better eyes on it.
i will have to research the time serts. sounds like a handy product.
i will have to research the time serts. sounds like a handy product.
Dcf1999
New member
Yea my instincts say lock tight red as well so that's what I'm going with. Thank you for your input.
Look into them... They look pretty solid. They are expensive though. I spent $80 for the 12mm x 1.25 kit. The actual inserts are cheap but the kits are pricy... A guy could probably buy the kit parts (drill bit, tap, etc) by themselves but the kit does have some sort of odd shaped installer that is supposed to push and seal the insert against the new threads to permanently seal the sert to the new hole.
Look into them... They look pretty solid. They are expensive though. I spent $80 for the 12mm x 1.25 kit. The actual inserts are cheap but the kits are pricy... A guy could probably buy the kit parts (drill bit, tap, etc) by themselves but the kit does have some sort of odd shaped installer that is supposed to push and seal the insert against the new threads to permanently seal the sert to the new hole.