can anyone help 2002 srx

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rockwatersrx

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2002 srx 700 I just bought this thing.

Im just starting to figure out what is in my clutches, but I have lots to learn, can anyone help

I have 23 37 gearing

red primary spring not sure about the weight, but its got a heel clicker clutch kit.

black with pink dot secondary spring, 47 degree helix and the spring is in the sheave side #7 hole and spring seat #3hole witch I think gives me a twist "wrap" of 100? if I have this information correct does this setup make any sense.

lets see what you Yamaha guys got for me

thanks a bunch
 
rockwatersrx said:
2002 srx 700 I just bought this thing.

Im just starting to figure out what is in my clutches, but I have lots to learn, can anyone help

I have 23 37 gearing

red primary spring not sure about the weight, but its got a heel clicker clutch kit.

black with pink dot secondary spring, 47 degree helix and the spring is in the sheave side #7 hole and spring seat #3hole witch I think gives me a twist "wrap" of 100? if I have this information correct does this setup make any sense.

lets see what you Yamaha guys got for me

thanks a bunch
Click to expand...

The reason its wrapped so tight is its got a stock red dot sec spring in it and the 47 degree stock helix which is too steep to get good performance out of the heel clickers front clutch. The gearing being taller then the stock 23/38 that came in it also will lower the rpm, so thats why they have it wound up so tight. A tight rear clutch is VERY inefficent and slows you down a bunch on top speed.

you need some new parts to get it going like it should, a multi angle helix and new sec spring for starters.

what type of riding do you do 90% of the time?
 
your gonna need to set up the front weight with a gram scale, they sell cheap little ones at office max for like $25

heel-6.2 grams
mid-empty
tip-6 grams

get a 50/36 multi angle helix

green dot yamaha sec spring, set the twist to 70 and test.

This will be a drastic change from what you have now, will be way more aggressive!
 
Ok that sounds good I will get those parts and try it out, do I need special tools to change the wait on the primary heel clickers? Can I do that with ought taking the primary completely apart? Like I say I'm new to these sleds put I no what I'm looking for lol
Thanks for the help I will keep things posted on here
 
I like the 8bu-10 setup I had in my 02 srx I ran a 51/43 Haick helix with a red spring at 70 and in the primary was w-w-w spring with 2 engagement shims and 8bu-10s with 4.5 tip with washer and a i think it's a .8 gram in the middle I pulled 118 mph on mud lake and had more in it mr.viper will set u in the right direction with what u wanna do
 
years back I set my 02 SRX up 8DN-20's fully loaded,4.5g inner and 5.5 g outer with w-w-w primary Spring,51/43 Dalton helix with Green Spring at 70 wrap.Before the River melted here,was all pure ice and I had no studs..did 7 wot pulls and was getting 118-119 on the speedo consistently..
You can use different clutch setups and different helix's to get there..
 
pretty good setup fro trail,but now |I am back with all stock..primary still loaded and using 47 helix,red spring at 80.Haven't had a chance to run it yet,probably after xmas if more snow comes and the River is froze up.
 
I ran the 8bu-10 setup all year last year in the trails and will also be runnin the same setup in my 2000 srx on the trails this year
 
That does sound like a good set up, don't get me wrong. But I had 5,4 in the heel, about 7 grams in the tip and mid empty, and a hauck red spring @70 degrees and a 50/36 but it overrevved some. So I put on a 50/38, and it would do 116-118 all day plus it backshifted way better than pretty much anything with a green yamaha spring @70 deg. Another thing I experienced was that with that spring, when hitting snow at high speeds, it would feel like the sled lugged almost, and the DCS came on, something to consider if your sled has a sensitive dcs system. The current set up is very agressive from corner to corner. That was with 22/38 gearing and a 1,25' ripsaw.
The avatar picture is with another set up. Hauck weights that are tuned for top end, they suck in backshift as they are set up now.
 
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I currently have 23/39 gears as this sled has reverse, I'm looking to try and find a stock 38 tooth that can take the reverse kit, other wise I'm throwing in a 37 bottom, that means I need to sacrifice the reverse.
How much performance do you think I'm loosing on top end with. 39 tooth bottom gear?
 
norwegian said:
That does sound like a good set up, don't get me wrong. But I had 5,4 in the heel, about 7 grams in the tip and mid empty, and a hauck red spring @70 degrees and a 50/36 but it overrevved some. So I put on a 50/38, and it would do 116-118 all day plus it backshifted way better than pretty much anything with a green yamaha spring @70 deg. Another thing I experienced was that with that spring, when hitting snow at high speeds, it would feel like the sled lugged almost, and the DCS came on, something to consider if your sled has a sensitive dcs system. The current set up is very agressive from corner to corner. That was with 22/38 gearing and a 1,25' ripsaw.
The avatar picture is with another set up. Hauck weights that are tuned for top end, they suck in backshift as they are set up now.
Click to expand...

he has 23/37 gearing, you have 22/38 of course your going to over rev and to boot a stiffer sec spring. Anytime you gear a sled up you LOWER rpm not raise it.
 
If I run the set up you gave with 23/39 gears, instead of the 23/37 what will happen, I'm can't find a 37 gear as I'm have the revers kit the 38 tooth and the 39 tooth are the only available. And I have the 39 in there.
So what I'm asking is
50/36 multi angle helix
6.2 grams in heel
6 grams in tip
Green dot spring
Wrapped at 70
Will this work or do I have to change weight in heel clickers?
 
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