Possible quick carb cleaning on Vmax ER?

T

Terrence R

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I have 2002 Vmax 600 triple. Great machine. It seems to runs great, but I would still like to clean the pilots and main jets just to be safe. Is there any way that I can pull the carbs in one peice, and take the bowls off and clean the jets? Or should I just take them all apart for a thorough cleaning? I just notice that there's a lot if people here that take there carbs off and then there sled doesn't seem to run right after it's reassambled. A lot of u guys seem to run into trouble with adjusting choke and what not. I just dont want to end up like one of those guys that can't figure it out and have to do what all the others end up doing( make a big thread on here with troubles after taking carbs apart). I'ld rather just try to keep it simple.
 

Yes; by one piece, you are referring to all three carbs at once... as opposed to each individual carb at a time correct? The carbs come off as a unit (all three bolted together make up the carb rack) you loosen up the boots, disconnect throttle and choke cables, sensors, most people remove the airbox for more room. Then remove the rack, take it over to the workbench and clean and inspect/from there. You leave the carbs together on the rack as one unit, but I like clean one carb at a time and then button it back up and move onto the next. (do not separate the carbs on the rack) You may have to adjust throttle and choke cable a little bit when you re assemble but it's really not that big of a deal. It also helps to take the top half off the airbox when you put everything back together so you can line up the intake boots with your hand. Then put the top half on. It will take you twice as long as it should the first time, but then you will see its not all that hard of a job. Check out the tech section for lots of info on this. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?43118-Carb-cleaning-101-with-pics
 
If they're working right leave them alone..stow with extra margin of oil/chemicals, run good fuel with Marine Stabil and you might never need to touch the carbs..I run a '84 Merc, 2-'84 200cc Big Red Trikes among many other older engines that have never had the carbs off.
The TCW-3 oil helps too, in fact, I run it 640/1 in all my 4 stroke fuel..even my cars.
 
I 2nd what Staggs said. Pilots are tiny and they clog up easily. Lots of small passages in these carbs. Take carbs off and thoroughly clean them. If you're not sure on something, ask a question.
 
I'd think you would have running issues if a tiny pilot was clogged??..seems alot of guys pull apart the carbs then have big problems cause something was overlooked or not re-adjusted properly.

I tend to leave things alone when functioning properly keeping it simple and supporting the OP concerns.
 
another question..

When you pull the carbs on a machine that runs great what do you expect to find?
 
dblshock said:
another question..

When you pull the carbs on a machine that runs great what do you expect to find?
Click to expand...

Thanx everybody for your input. I'll be taking them apart tomorrow as I'll also be installing my reed spacers.

dblshock, I could possibly expect to find some dirt laying in the bowl of a carb that has not yet gotten wedged in a pilot jet port yet. By cleaning and removing the dirt, I could avoid a melt down from a lean condition that would be caused from a clogged pilot or main jet later in life, regardless if it's currently running great.
 
Terrence R said:
Thanx everybody for your input. I'll be taking them apart tomorrow as I'll also be installing my reed spacers.

dblshock, I could possibly expect to find some dirt laying in the bowl of a carb that has not yet gotten wedged in a pilot jet port yet. By cleaning and removing the dirt, I could avoid a melt down from a lean condition that would be caused from a clogged pilot or main jet later in life, regardless if it's currently running great.
Click to expand...

Exactly, that's why they call it "preventative maintenance".
 
My .02 for what its worth. Are you running an ethanol blended fuel? If YES, in my opinion it's an absolute must to clean carbs. I run E fuel and clean pre-season every year and will open them up again at any sign of a problem threw out the season (especially if sled has sat for an extended amount of time) I just cleaned the carbs on my 01 SRX and ALL pilots had blockage, 2 of the 3 mains had blockage. Could these have cleared themselves had I hopped on it and rode it? Maybe. Could these NOT clear themselves and cause a lean condition and burn down? DEFINATELY! I think (emphasis on THINK) a lot of the "running into trouble" are due to a handful of things. First time carb cleaning (especially by some one not so mechanically inclined) are often times not done right, which results in same or different symptoms. They can be cleaned 10 times the wrong way or not completely and still will not be clean. Add to that the whole fuel system can have ethanol crap in it. Even when 100% cleaned correctly crap from old fuel in lines/pump/tank are going to end right back in carbs. Leading to a 2nd or 3rd cleaning may be in order if you have a bunch of crap in the lines. I am very mechanically inclined and was leary of cleaning carbs myself......4 years later Piece of cake! There is several write ups, pick your favorite (or all of them), Print them off so you can refer to them as you are wrenching. Go to the "stock specs" page and write down what is supposed to be in there (pilots/mains/float setting/fuel screws) and write it down on your cheat sheets. If you run into a stumper feel free to start a thread with questions (especially if you can't find an answer in another thread) You have a TON of Yamaha brothers here, our opinions may very but we are here to help. If NO to original ethanol blended question.....you can probably get by a lot longer with out a carb cleaning BUT it's still a good idea!
 
I've had 2 different 2001 V-max 600 deluxes and both came with 2/3 of the pilot jets plugged. You can tell by the way they idle. The po's thought they ran great. Anyway, I would take those carbs off for sure, the whole job is a lot easier than it first appears. On my viper the jets were clear but the slide synchronization was off a bit. I can sleep better at night now, knowing that my carbs have been checked.
 
that only left 1/3 open? and they ran great? most of this is from poor storage and ethanol..and I believe it is better to leave a gallon of non-ethanol but maxium treated fuel in the system..heavily oiled like ATF...dirt is even harder to explain with the fuel filter, fuel solvents and detergent present, brings you back to storage issues..do that right and avoid alot of these problems both initially and on re-assembly
 
and those multiple grade pumps..just push the 91 non-ethanol button and get the first three gallons of ethanol 87...in case you missed it..12/16 snomofo wrote:

'When getting fuel at the station I start the premium pump and put a couple gallons in my truck before putting the nozzle in my sled or jerry cans. Still doesn't ensure the fuel coming out of the underground tank is fresh premium but at least I'm not getting a hose and pump full of 87. I also get behind my high octane buds when lining at the pump when riding'

Good advice
 
I'm not sure what's been in the sled for fuel and if any stabilizer was used cause I just purchased the sled a couple months ago. Haven't ran it yet. But one thing is for sure, I would never be stupid enough to put anything below 91 octane in any machine!
 
you can stick drill bits (the round ends) or golf tees in those coolant lines to stop any leakage. As far as it all being a storage problem evidently 100s of people are wrong and dblshock is right. I've had plenty of plugged pilots in the fall and i'm quite particular with my sleds. To go on that theory, from now on I won't add oil, gas, or coolant until the engine stops. Because it's running fine until that point. I also won't clean powervalves until I get a pull thru. I'll change bearings when they disintegrate. Change belts when the chunks hit my knee. Get a new track when mine slaps me in the back. Service my chaincase when the chain breaks. And most importantly clean my carbs when I have the engine apart changing pistons.
 
Ahhhh..that's taking it out a little far stagg..My point was a engine that 'runs great' does not need the carbs cleaned..and the risk for most newbies is they screw it up....this board is loaded with examples of that, no? if it ran great for what? so if you just want to be busy clean the garage.

Terrence what did you find in your great running carbs?
 
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